Camdios Glass Cutter 2mm-20mm, Upgrade Glass Cutter Tool, Pencil Style Oil Feed Carbide Tip for Glass Cutting/Tiles/Mirror/Mosaic.

What it is and who it’s for

The Camdios glass cutter is a pencil-style, oil-feed scoring tool with three interchangeable carbide heads rated for 2–6 mm, 6–12 mm, and 12–20 mm glass. It’s built for straight-line scoring on window glass, mirrors, stained glass, and other sheet glass commonly used in DIY. If you’re looking for an affordable, compact cutter that can live in a small case rather than a full tile or glass station, this is the idea: a pocketable tool that pairs with a straightedge and some basic breaking tools.

If you’re brand new to glass cutting, it’s worth understanding what this tool does and doesn’t do. It scores glass; it doesn’t “cut” through it. You make a single, continuous score and then run the score line and break the piece with proper support or pliers. For ceramic or porcelain tile, you’ll want a tile cutter or wet saw. For tempered glass, don’t even try—tempered cannot be scored and cut.

Setup and build quality

Out of the box, the handle is an alloy tube with light knurling and a head that locks in with a set screw. The three heads are laser-marked for thickness. No oil is included, so you’ll need a light cutting oil or even light machine oil to get started.

• Swapping heads: Changing heads is straightforward—loosen the set screw, seat the new head fully, tighten. On my unit, the smallest head needed the set screw backed out almost entirely to seat properly, which hints at tight tolerances. Once snug, there was no play.
• Oil feed: The reservoir is simple to fill with a syringe or needle oiler. The feed is gravity/pressure assisted; when you apply pressure while scoring, a small amount of oil wicks to the wheel.
• Case: The compact case holds the handle and heads, though with a head installed, the lid didn’t close perfectly flush. I ended up storing the spare heads and keeping the installed head in a separate pouch with my straightedge to prevent pressure on the wheel.

The handle feels solid and has enough weight to stabilize the stroke without feeling heavy. The edges around the knurling on mine were a touch sharp; gloves solve that easily, and a quick pass with a deburring tool or fine file would refine it if it bothers you.

In use: scoring performance

I tested across typical DIY scenarios: 3 mm picture-frame glass, 5 mm mirror, and 6 mm stained glass. With a straightedge and moderate, even pressure, the cutter produces the telltale, consistent “zip” that signals a clean score. The square block-style head tracks beautifully along a metal ruler’s edge—easier, frankly, than some traditional heads that can wander if your angle changes.

• Thin glass (2–3 mm): The smallest head did the best work here. I found that very light pressure works better than you think; the wheel should mark a faint, consistent line without grinding.
• Mirror (5 mm): The mid-size head made crisp scores. Running the score with light pressure from the back side produced clean breaks with minimal flaking. As always with mirror, supporting the silvered side and using tape along the cut helps protect the backing.
• Stained glass (3–6 mm): For straight cuts it’s excellent. For gentle curves, it’s passable but this isn’t a pattern head; score once, then use grozing pliers to nibble to the line.

I also tried scoring a wine bottle. With a basic jig to hold the bottle steady and the cutter fixed to a repeatable height, I was able to get a consistent score around the circumference. Flame-and-quench separated the neck cleanly in two attempts. This isn’t a bottle-cutting kit, but if you have a jig or a steady hand, the wheel is sharp enough for the job.

On thicker sheet (10 mm), the largest head can score, but you’ll need proper breaking technique—tap to run the score line, use running pliers if you have them, and be patient. I wouldn’t pick this for regular 12–20 mm plate unless you already know the technique; the cutter can do it, but thick glass is unforgiving.

The oil-feed system

Lubrication is the difference between a gritty score and a clean one. The feed on this cutter is effective and not fussy. Filled a third of the way, I got a light, consistent film without drips. If you plan to store the tool for long periods, I’d empty the reservoir or just skip filling it and touch the wheel with a drop of oil before each cut. Both methods worked in my testing.

A small tip: if the wheel looks dry and the score gets squeaky or fragmented, add a drop to the wheel—don’t compensate with more pressure.

Ergonomics and control

The pencil grip is familiar and reduces wrist strain on longer scoring runs. The head geometry helps maintain a consistent angle against a straightedge. The balance is good; the handle’s weight helps the wheel stay planted without needing a death grip.

The only nit is the knurling edges—slightly sharp on my sample. Not a deal-breaker, but it’s there. Wearing gloves also protects your hands during the breaking step, so it’s a non-issue in practice.

Accuracy and consistency

With a decent straightedge and one clean pass, I got repeatable, accurate cuts. Two things mattered most:

• Angle and pressure: Keep the head upright relative to the glass and maintain steady pressure. You should hear a continuous, fine sizzle—not a crunchy grind.
• One pass only: Rescoring is a common beginner mistake. One pass, then break.

The carbide wheel shows little wear after a handful of projects. Having three heads effectively gives you spare wheels and lets you pick the right wheel for the job.

Where it falls short

• Tile claims: This is not a ceramic or porcelain tile cutter. It will score glass tile or glass mosaic faces fine, but don’t expect it to snap standard ceramic subway tile. Use a tile cutter or wet saw for that.
• Storage case: The included case is handy but cramped. If you store it with a head attached, it may not close cleanly; I’d store heads separately.
• Tolerances on heads/screw: Head changes rely on a single small set screw. It did its job, but I’d avoid over-torquing. Keep a tiny hex key in the case and check tightness occasionally.

Tips for best results

• Use a true straightedge with a non-slip backing (or clamp it). A scrap of masking tape under a steel ruler works in a pinch.
• Clean the glass. Dust and tiny chips make scores wander.
• Oil the wheel lightly. A drop is often enough if you don’t want to fill the handle.
• Score once. You’re aiming for a continuous, even sound.
• Break smart. For straight lines, tap along the underside of the score to “run” it, then use running pliers. For narrow offcuts, support the line over a dowel and press down gently.
• Safety: Eye protection, gloves, sleeves. Keep a brush and vacuum for shards.

Value

For the price of an entry-level cutter, you get a comfortable handle, three heads covering a broad thickness range, and an oil feed that actually works. You’ll still need basic accessories—a straightedge and ideally running/grozing pliers—but that’s true of any glass cutter. If you cut occasionally, this is an easy tool to keep around. If you’re cutting daily, you might prefer a pro-grade cutter with a more refined handle and premium wheel, but you’ll pay for it.

Bottom line

The Camdios cutter scores cleanly, tracks well against a straightedge, and its oil-feed system is simple and effective. The multi-head setup extends its range and lifespan. You’ll want to overlook a slightly fussy case and keep an eye on the set screw, but performance on typical DIY glass, mirror, and stained glass is solid. It’s not a ceramic tile tool, and it doesn’t replace proper breaking pliers, yet as a compact scorer it gets the fundamentals right.

Recommendation: I recommend it for DIYers and hobbyists who need a reliable, affordable glass scorer for straight cuts in sheet glass and mirrors, and for occasional bottle projects with a simple jig. It offers good cut quality, flexible head options, and an effective oil feed at a fair price, with manageable trade-offs in case design and head fastening.