Logan Graphic Products Logan Acrylic Plastic Cutter 709-1 for Plexi Glass and Thick Plastic and Acrylic Sheet Cutting

What it is and who it’s for

The Logan cutter is a simple, hand-held scoring tool for sizing acrylic and plexiglass sheets. If you frame artwork, build display cases, swap out glazing in picture frames, or knock together small enclosures and craft projects, this is the kind of tool that earns its spot in a drawer. It’s not a saw and it doesn’t “slice” through plastic. Instead, it scores a controlled V-groove so you can snap the sheet cleanly along a straight line. Used with a straightedge (ideally a metal one), it’s a dependable, low-cost way to make straight cuts without dust, noise, or power tools.

Setup, feel, and ergonomics

Out of the package, the cutter is as straightforward as they come: a compact black handle with a hooked scoring tip. The grip is comfortable and easy to index in your hand, and the tip presents itself at a natural angle for pulling along a ruler. The geometry encourages you to keep the tool upright so the groove is square to the surface. There’s no gimmickry here—just a sturdy handle and a properly hardened tip that shaves plastic rather than smearing it.

I used it alongside a 24-inch aluminum straightedge with a non-slip back. That pairing matters. This style of cutter relies on a rigid guide and consistent pressure; a flexible plastic ruler or freehand approach will wander and produce an angled groove. Clamping the straightedge makes the process calmer and more predictable.

Cutting performance

On standard 1/8-inch (3 mm) acrylic sheets, I consistently got clean, straight snaps with 8–12 passes applying firm, even pressure. Each pass pulls up thin plastic ribbons and deepens the groove. With practice, you can hear and feel when the cutter is tracking in its own path as the tip settles into the score.

At 1/4-inch (6 mm), it’s still very workable, but you need patience. Expect a few dozen passes, and it helps to flip the sheet and score the back side as well, aligning the groove with the first score. That effectively creates a meeting point for the fracture and reduces the force required to snap the panel. Supporting the sheet along the edge of a bench and using a quick, decisive downward motion produced the best breaks for me. When the score is deep and straight, the snap is surprisingly crisp, leaving an edge that requires only light cleanup.

Inside cuts (for example, cutting out a window in the middle of a sheet) are possible but tedious. The tool will remove material slowly if you keep scoring along a line, but once you’re away from a sheet edge, you lose the ability to snap. You’ll either need to commit to cutting nearly all the way through or switch to a different method after establishing a starter groove. For interior cutouts, I prefer drilling a corner hole and using a fine-tooth jigsaw, then returning to the cutter to clean up edges.

A note on materials: this tool is meant for acrylic/plexiglass. It’s not a glass cutter, and it’s not ideal for polycarbonate, which tends to bend and resist clean snapping. If you’re working with polycarbonate (Lexan), plan on saw-based methods instead.

Technique tips that made a difference

A few habits improved my results:

• Leave the protective film on the acrylic. It reduces scratching and lets tape adhere without residue.
• Tape and clamp your straightedge. A thick aluminum or steel rule keeps the blade vertical and your fingers away from the cutting path.
• Use the “heel” of the blade. Keep the tip at a low angle and let the hooked edge do the work; pressing straight down invites chatter.
• Build depth with passes, not brute force. Heavy pressure on the first pass skates the blade and widens the line. Moderate, repeat passes are faster in the end.
• For 1/4-inch stock, score both sides. The back score doesn’t have to be as deep—just enough to meet the front groove.
• Deburr after snapping. A quick scrape with a utility blade or a pass with 220–400 grit paper cleans the edge.

Follow that routine and the tool rewards you with square, straight results that look machine-cut once edges are dressed.

Accuracy and edge quality

With a good straightedge, I could hold lines within a millimeter across 24 inches. The groove itself is centered and consistent so long as the tool stays upright against the guide. Break edges are straight and mostly free of chips; small flares at the very top surface are common but disappear with two or three gentle scrapes. If you need polished, optical edges, you’ll still need to sand and flame-polish or buff. But for framing and general-purpose panels, the as-snapped edge is absolutely acceptable.

Curved cuts are not this tool’s strength. You can carefully freehand score gentle arcs, but the risk of the blade wandering is high and snapping along a curve is unpredictable. For curves, switch to a fine-tooth saw or CNC/laser if available.

Durability and maintenance

Used correctly—pulled straight, oriented upright, and confined to acrylic—the scoring tip holds up well. It doesn’t visibly dull after a handful of projects, and it keeps cutting clean ribbons rather than dust, which is a good sign. Abuse it with sideways torque or try to pry with the tip, and you’ll feel the handle flex and the cut quality suffer. This is a scoring tool, not a pry bar, so avoid twisting at the end of a stroke. Wipe the tip clean when you’re done; acrylic shavings can compact near the hook and affect the next cut.

I didn’t experience any looseness or wobble in the tip during normal use. If you do feel chatter, it’s almost always technique-related—usually too steep an angle, too much pressure on the first pass, or an unsteady straightedge.

Safety and cleanliness

One of the advantages here is the lack of dust and noise. Scoring produces shavings, not airborne chips, so cleanup is quick. Still, wear eye protection when snapping; the fracture happens fast. Keep hands behind your straightedge and never pull the cutter toward unprotected fingers. The snapped edge is sharp; de-burr it before handling.

Value and where it fits in a kit

This tool’s value proposition is strong for anyone making straight cuts in acrylic up to 1/4 inch. You can certainly cut acrylic with a table saw, track saw, or router, but those methods demand blades, setups, and dust collection—and mistakes are costlier. A $10–$20 scoring tool plus a straightedge will quietly handle most framing and hobby tasks with a surprisingly professional finish.

There are cheaper generic cutters that look similar. The difference I noticed with the Logan is the more comfortable handle and a tip that bites predictably rather than skittering on the first pass. If you only need one or two cuts in thin acrylic, any scorer will probably do. If you expect to keep one in a toolkit and use it regularly, the predictability and feel matter.

Limitations

• Not for glass or polycarbonate.
• Not suited to thick stock beyond 1/4 inch without considerable effort.
• Inside cuts and curves are possible but inefficient.
• Requires a rigid metal straightedge for best results; freehand performance is mediocre.

Those aren’t faults of this particular tool so much as the nature of score-and-snap cutting. Understanding those boundaries will keep you from forcing the tool to do jobs it wasn’t designed for.

Recommendation

I recommend the Logan cutter for framers, makers, and DIYers who need clean, straight cuts in acrylic or plexiglass and prefer a quiet, low-mess method over power tools. It’s comfortable in the hand, produces reliable results with a sensible technique, and pairs well with a metal straightedge or framing rail. If your work involves frequent curved cuts, interior cutouts, or thick polycarbonate, look to saws or a router. But for the bread-and-butter task of sizing acrylic panels up to a quarter inch, this simple, affordable tool is exactly the right solution.