BHTOP Plastic Cap Nails, 200 Pcs Roofing Nails, 1 inch Galvanized Tar Paper Nails for Roofing, Roofing Nail Caps for House Wrap Fastening Foam Board Roofing Felt Insulation Film

Why I reached for these cap nails

I keep a few different fasteners on hand for weather barrier work, and lately I’ve been leaning on the BHTOP cap nails for small to mid-size jobs. I first picked them up for a backyard shed re-roof and a quick house-wrap repair, then kept using them on foam board and a lightweight insulation film install. They’re simple 1-inch, electro-galvanized nails with round plastic caps, supplied in a 200-count box. Nothing flashy—just a straightforward solution for tasks where you need a larger bearing surface and a bit of water-shedding under the head.

Build and design

These are standard shank steel nails with a molded plastic cap fixed to the head. The caps are blue, which sounds cosmetic, but it’s genuinely useful; I can quickly spot my fastener pattern across a wall or roof, and it’s easier to find missed areas or identify where I need to add more fasteners at laps and corners.

The caps provide a wide bearing surface that resists pull-through on soft or fragile materials like roofing felt, house wrap, and foam board. The finish is electro-galvanized, which is appropriate for general exterior use and intermittent moisture exposure. It’s not hot-dipped, so I wouldn’t count on it for extreme coastal environments or long, wet exposures, but for typical sheathing-type applications that get covered reasonably quickly, it’s a practical choice.

Installation experience

Driven with a standard framing or roofing hammer, the BHTOP cap nails seat neatly with a consistent feel. The caps stayed put while driving—no spinning, no popping off—and the heads didn’t chew up the cap material when I set them flush. With cap nails, the trick is always avoiding overdrive: you want the cap snug against the material, but not dishing or cutting into it. Set too deep and you can create a stress point that tears under wind load. These caps have enough stiffness that it’s easy to feel when you’ve hit “flush.”

On roofing felt, I spaced them along laps and at field positions as usual, and they held without tearing through during handling. On house wrap, the larger cap kept the membrane flat and tight without wrinkling. For foam board, the cap helps prevent the nail head from sinking into the foam; I used them to tack panels in place while I added mechanical fasteners at framing.

A practical note: these are loose nails, not collated, so you’re working by hand. For small projects or touch-ups, that’s fine. If I’m wrapping an entire house or laying a lot of felt, I normally switch to a cap stapler or a cap nailer for speed. The 200-count box is right-sized for patching, a shed, a small outbuilding, or a single room’s worth of wrap and foam.

Holding power and performance

Holding power with cap nails is less about the shank and more about the cap’s footprint. These caps distribute load and dramatically reduce the chance of tearing. In practice, the BHTOP caps resisted pull-through well on both felt and house wrap. I did a quick test on a scrap of wrap over OSB and pulled by hand—no immediate tear-out. Under real-world wind on a two-day exposed wrap, fasteners stayed put, and I saw no mushrooming or deformation of the caps.

The shank on these nails appears to be a standard smooth shank. That’s typical for this style. If you’re working in high-wind zones or on older, very dry, dense sheathing where withdrawal can be a concern, you might prefer a ring-shank cap nail. For general use, these held as expected.

Weather and corrosion resistance

Electro-galvanized nails occupy a sensible middle ground: better than bright steel, not as rugged as hot-dipped. After a few weeks of intermittent rain and sun on the shed project (before final cladding), I didn’t see rust streaks or obvious corrosion. That aligns with what I’d expect—short-term exterior exposure is fine. If you anticipate long exposure or you’re near salt air, step up to a heavier coating or stainless fastener. For everyone else, these will do the job.

The plastic caps shrugged off UV for the duration of my installs. Like any cap, long-term sun exposure will age the plastic, so don’t plan on leaving them exposed for months. Store the box out of direct sun—UV and heat will take a toll on any plastic cap over time.

Use cases that make sense

I’ve used these cap nails successfully for:
- Roofing felt on a shed roof
- House wrap repairs and small installs
- Temporary positioning of foam board before permanent fastening at studs
- Holding a lightweight insulation film in a shop bay

They’re also a solid fit for underlayment and sheathing where you want a wide head and minimal puncture damage. In each case, the cap provides a better bearing surface than a typical nail head and helps reduce water getting under the head.

Limitations and fit

A couple of constraints to keep in mind:
- Length: At 1 inch, these are ideal for thin materials over wood sheathing. If you’re going through thicker foam or want more embedment into framing, you’ll need a longer fastener.
- Substrate hardness: In very hard lumber or engineered products, a short smooth-shank nail doesn’t have the same withdrawal resistance as a longer or ring-shank option.
- Cold weather: Any plastic cap can get more brittle in freezing temperatures. I didn’t crack any, but I’m cautious when driving in the cold—use controlled blows and avoid overdriving.

As with any weather-resistive barrier work, follow your local code and the manufacturer’s fastening schedule. Spacing, penetration, and cap type can be specified, and it’s worth getting right.

Practical tips

• Seat the cap flush, not dimpled. If you see the cap dish or cut the membrane, back out and replace the fastener.
• Space fasteners tighter at corners, around openings, and along laps. The visibility of the blue caps helps confirm spacing at a glance.
• For foam board, use these to tack panels true, then follow up with longer screws and washers into studs for permanent support.
• Keep a dedicated magnet or small pouch handy—loose nails like to wander on a roof.
• If you’re driving into OSB near an edge, back off a hair from the edge to reduce blowouts.

Value and packaging

The 200-count box is a sensible quantity for repairs, small builds, or one-off projects. Caps were consistently molded, and I didn’t encounter out-of-round or misshapen pieces. Every cap I used stayed attached through driving, and I didn’t lose time to rework. For larger jobs, I’d buy in bulk or move to a collated solution for speed, but for the size and scope these are intended for, the packaging and count make sense.

Alternatives to consider

• Cap staples with a pneumatic tacker: Much faster on large wraps, but requires the tool and nails you to compressor logistics.
• Hot-dipped galvanized or stainless cap nails: Better corrosion resistance, at a higher cost, useful for coastal or long-exposure scenarios.
• Screws with plastic washers: Superior holding in foam and furring applications, slower to install and more expensive.

The BHTOP cap nails sit in the practical, budget-friendly middle: easy to drive, protective cap, and adequate corrosion resistance for standard timelines.

Bottom line

For fastening roofing felt, house wrap, foam board, and light insulation films, these BHTOP cap nails do exactly what they should. The blue caps improve visibility during layout, the caps seat cleanly without tearing membranes, and the electro-galvanized finish has handled normal outdoor exposure without fuss in my projects. They’re not the fastest option for a full-house wrap and they’re not the most corrosion-resistant fastener you can buy, but for everyday use on small to medium tasks, they’ve been reliable.

Recommendation: I recommend these for DIYers and pros tackling small projects or targeted installs where hand-driven cap nails make sense. They’re consistent, easy to use, and the 1-inch length is right for felt, wrap, and light foam applications over sheathing. If you’re in a coastal environment, expect long weather exposure, or need deeper embedment, step up to a heavier-coated or longer option. Otherwise, these are a dependable, cost-effective staple for the kit.