One Stop Outdoor (500 Pack) Round Plastic Cap Nail 1 Inch Roofing Nails Galvanized Tar Paper Nails for House Wrap Fastening Foam Board Roofing Felt Insulation Film

Why I reached for plastic-cap nails

I’ve tried just about every way to tack down house wrap, roofing felt, and foam board: staples, smooth-shank roofing nails, even screws with washers when the wind forecast made me nervous. For a recent shed re-skin and a small porch reroof, I switched to these 1-inch plastic-cap nails from One Stop Outdoor. I wanted better tear resistance than staples and less pull-through than plain roofing nails, with enough corrosion resistance to survive a few weeks of exposure. After a couple of projects, they’ve earned a spot in my fastening bin.

Design and build

These are integrated plastic-cap nails: a 1-inch diameter flexible cap molded around a short, electro-galvanized ring-shank nail. There’s no separate washer to juggle and no collated strips—just loose fasteners in a bag. The concept is simple but effective:

• The wide cap spreads the load to reduce pull-through on softer sheet goods (house wrap, felt, foam board).
• The cap’s rim flexes slightly, seating against textured surfaces and shedding incidental water better than a bare nail head.
• The ring shank bites into OSB and plywood and resists backing out, even with thermal movement and wind flutter.
• The electro-galvanized finish is appropriate for temporary exposure and underlayment duty.

Nothing exotic here, and that’s a positive. Simple parts, predictable behavior.

In use: setup, speed, and accuracy

I drove these with a standard 16 oz hammer and a roofing hatchet. They’re hand-driven, so expect a different pace than a cap stapler or a pneumatic cap nailer. For modest jobs (sheds, additions, a few squares of felt), the speed is perfectly manageable. If you’re wrapping a full house solo, a collated cap stapler will be faster; for tear resistance and pull-through, though, these nails hold their own.

A few practical notes from the field:

• Aim for square strikes. The caps do a good job of keeping the nail centered, but a glancing blow will tilt the nail and can chip the cap.
• Don’t overdrive. Stop when the cap is snug to the surface. Overdriving can dish the cap or crack the edge, especially on cold days.
• Plan your spacing. On house wrap, I follow the wrap manufacturer’s guidance—often 12 inches on studs and closer at seams. On felt, I’ll go tighter near roof edges and overlaps.

I did run across the occasional unit with an off-center nail in the cap or a pair of caps nested together. It wasn’t frequent, but I learned to glance at each piece as I grabbed it. The oddball goes into a scrap bucket and I move on.

Holding power and weathering

Two quick scenarios show how they perform:

• House wrap on a windy week: I attached wrap to OSB sheathing ahead of siding, and the wind pushed hard for several days. The wrap stayed put with no visible pull-through at seams. The 1-inch cap is the difference here—staples compress but cut, especially at edges; the wide cap spreads the load.

• Roofing felt during a rainy stretch: I used them on a small porch roof to pin felt underlayment ahead of shingles. The caps helped shed drips, and the ring shank kept things from creeping. These aren’t waterproofing in themselves, but the low-profile, seated cap certainly beats a small nail head for keeping felt intact.

After about three weeks of intermittent sun and rain, I saw no rust blooms. Electro-galvanized coatings aren’t as robust as hot-dip galvanizing, so I wouldn’t choose them for long-term exterior exposure or coastal environments. Under siding or shingles, they’re in their element.

Where they make the most sense

• House wrap and building paper: Excellent. Reduced tear-out, especially across stud bays and at corners.
• Roofing felt and synthetics: Good. Holds overlaps without chewing through.
• Foam board and insulation: The broad cap prevents the “cheese grater” effect you get with small heads; just watch your depth to avoid dimpling rigid foam.
• Temporary protection and tarps: Useful for short-term tie-downs to sheathing where you don’t want to crater thin material.

If you’re fastening thick, dense materials or need structural shear values, these are not the right tool. They’re a surface fastening solution, not a substitute for sheathing nails or screws.

Durability and removability

The ring shank is a two-edged sword: great holding power, and more resistance to removal. If you need to pull them, slide a thin flat bar under the cap rim and lift against the nail shank—not the edge of the cap—to avoid snapping the plastic. Expect occasional cap separation on removal; that’s normal for this style. In finished assemblies, removal is rarely necessary, since they live behind cladding.

The plastic itself has a bit of give and doesn’t feel brittle. Still, any plastic left exposed to UV for months will degrade. I wouldn’t plan to leave house wrap uncovered all season; fasteners and wrap both prefer a shorter exposure window.

Fit and finish

Consistency was generally good. Most caps were centered and flat, and the nails drove straight. As mentioned, there were a few with off-center nails or double-nested caps. It’s minor, but it’s there. The shanks were straight, and I didn’t experience bending unless I hit a knot near the edge of a stud when attaching foam board—fairly typical for short, ring-shank fasteners.

The bags are simply bulk-packed. If you’re working at height, pour a manageable number into a pouch; the caps can cling together slightly, and you don’t want to fumble with a full bag on a ladder.

Alternatives and trade-offs

• Cap staplers: Faster for large runs, lighter tool in hand, but higher risk of tearing in wind compared to cap nails, especially on softer sheathing. Great for production work when schedule matters.
• Hot-dip galvanized or stainless options: Better corrosion resistance for coastal/high-exposure work; you’ll pay more and may have fewer size options.
• Roofing nails with separate plastic washers: Similar performance once assembled, but slower and fiddlier on a ladder.

If you prioritize holding strength and tear resistance on weather barriers and underlayment, these integrated cap nails hit a sweet spot. If speed is your primary concern, you’ll likely choose a cap stapler.

Safety and best practices

• Wear eye protection. Mis-hits can chip plastic.
• Keep caps flush, not buried. Overdriving defeats the purpose of the cap.
• Follow the wrap or felt manufacturer’s fastening schedule for spacing and placement at seams.
• Avoid direct contact with highly corrosive environments. Under siding or roofing is fine; prolonged coastal exposure is not what electro-galv is for.

Value

Per-piece cost is reasonable, and the 500-pack is a practical size for small projects. Bigger pack options make sense if you’re wrapping a full house or multiple jobs. The added holding power and reduced callbacks to re-tack wind-lifted felt or flapping wrap are worth more to me than the modest premium over plain roofing nails.

Final thoughts and recommendation

These plastic-cap nails do their job with minimal fuss: they drive cleanly, hold tightly, and protect delicate materials from tearing. The ring shank grips well in OSB and plywood, and the 1-inch cap spreads the load exactly as it should. Minor quality quirks—an occasional off-center cap or a nested pair—show up now and then, but they’re rare and easy to cull on the fly.

I recommend them for house wrap, roofing felt, and foam board fastening, especially when wind or handling abuse is a concern. If you need high-speed production fastening, a cap stapler will be faster; if you need long-term corrosion resistance in harsh environments, step up to hot-dip galvanized or stainless. For typical residential underlayment and wrap work, these nails strike a practical balance of holding power, ease of use, and value.