DeWalt Small Premium Leather Welding Gloves (1-Pair)

Why I reached for these gloves

On light fabrication days—MIG tack-ups, quick stick repairs, a bit of oxy-fuel cutting—I don’t want the bulk of heavy stick gloves or the fragility of thin TIG mitts. That’s where these DeWalt welding gloves found their lane for me. They promise short-duration heat protection, decent dexterity, and forearm coverage without feeling like oven mitts. After several weeks of cutting, fitting, tacking, and running medium-length beads, I have a clear sense of where they shine and where you’ll want something beefier.

Build and materials

The outer shell is grade‑A buffalo leather with Kevlar stitching throughout. That’s a solid recipe for sparks, brief contact heat, and abrasion. The leather is uniform with a firm hand out of the bag and breaks in predictably after a few sessions. Mine are the Small variant, listed at 17.5 inches overall, and the long gauntlet is the standout feature—plenty of coverage over a jacket sleeve, with a flared opening that doesn’t fight layered clothing.

Reinforcements are placed where they should be:
- Thumb saddle for twisting torches and pulling your hood down
- Palm patch and finger caps for resting the torch or dragging the work
- A drag patch along the pinky side for MIG/flux-core posture

The Kevlar thread resists charring from spatter; I’ve put a fair amount of grinder spark on the backhand and seen only surface sooting—no melted stitches. Stitch spacing is consistent and double-stitched in the wear zones.

One trade-off: there’s no additional thermal lining. This is full-leather construction, not a thick, fleece-lined foundry glove. That keeps bulk down and improves control but limits sustained heat exposure.

Fit, comfort, and break-in

I typically wear a Small/7 glove in general utility and a Medium in thick welding mitts. In this Small size, the fingers were snug for the first day and then relaxed after an hour of on-and-off welding. The elastic-sewn wrist gives a surprisingly secure feel without making them hard to pull off; it keeps slag out while still letting you shake them loose one-handed.

The gauntlet length matters more than it gets credit for. With the cuff extending well up the forearm, I didn’t have to keep fussing with jacket sleeves to avoid spatter bites. The cuff also holds its shape; it doesn’t collapse and trap hot debris.

If you’re between sizes, I’d err on the larger size for two reasons: leather shrinkage from heat and any moisture exposure, and the fact that these are cut for a close fit. A snug glove will break in, but a too-tight glove can fatigue your hands during long sessions.

Heat protection in practice

These are pitched as short-duration heat gloves, and that matches my experience. Here’s how they handled common shop scenarios:

• MIG/Flux-core: No problem with spatter and radiant heat on mild steel. I could rest my hand near fresh beads for positioning, but I wouldn’t linger on hot plate. Radiant heat becomes noticeable after 10–20 seconds close to a big puddle on thicker stock.

• Stick (7018/6011): Fine for moderate-length passes. If you hang out near the puddle or brace on hot material, heat finds its way through. I didn’t blister, but I did feel the urge to pull away after a short dwell.

• Oxy-fuel cutting: Excellent forearm protection from sparks and slag showers. Still, don’t scoop freshly cut parts; use tongs or pliers.

• Grinding/cleanup: Great. The leather shrugs off abrasive dust and stray sparks, and the elastic wrist helps keep grit out.

• TIG: For aluminum or low-amperage TIG where you need a bit more protection than thin goatskin, they’re workable. For high-amperage TIG or extended proximity to a hot cup, they’re too warm and too stiff for the finesse I want. TIG-minded folks will still prefer a purpose-built goatskin glove.

A critical reminder: these are not for grabbing hot steel, even “for just a second.” They’re protective, not magic. Your technique—using tools to move hot work—matters more than what’s on your hands.

Dexterity and control

Compared with bulky stick gloves, these are noticeably more nimble. I can pick up filler rod, start nuts, adjust clamps, and roll a torch comfortably. The reinforced finger caps do dull fingertip feel a bit, but the trade-off is durability at the contact points. Trigger control on a MIG gun is easy, and the palm patch adds grip without slickness. On smooth, oily surfaces the leather can get skaty, so wipe down gloved palms if you’re handling oiled stock.

Because they’re unlined, finger articulation is better than in many heat-heavy gloves. I could choke up on a grinder or reposition a workpiece fixture without taking them off, which saves time.

Durability and wear

After weeks of shop use, the key stress areas look good: no loose threads, no flapping seams at the thumb web, and only surface glazing where I rested on hot steel. The pinky-side drag patch is earning its keep—less premature smoothing of the leather there.

A few practical notes:
- Avoid soaking them. These are not water-resistant. If they get wet (sweat, coolant, rain), let them dry slowly away from direct heat to prevent hardening. A touch of leather conditioner after a full dry can restore suppleness.
- Don’t stash them under freshly cut plate. That’s asking for scorched leather and brittle fingertips.
- Expect a break-in period. Buffalo leather starts stiff and then conforms nicely; rushing it with oil or heat can compromise the feel.

If there’s a potential weak spot, it’s the transition seam where the finger cap meets the main finger—typical on many gloves. Mine are fine so far, but I’m mindful not to twist hard on a stuck fitting with fingertip leverage. Use a tool, not glove friction, for stubborn jobs.

Protection from debris and comfort in use

The elastic wrist and open gauntlet are a smart pairing. The elastic closes the glove at the wrist, while the gauntlet overlaps sleeves to create a layered barrier. I’ve shaken out only minimal slag at the end of the day. Breathability is average for leather; your hands will get warm during extended runs, but the absence of a thick liner helps stave off swampy palms.

Weight is moderate—substantial enough to feel protective but not fatiguing. The inside feel is slightly textured leather, not plush; there’s no scratchiness or hot spots in the seams.

Safety and notes

• Kevlar stitching resists heat and won’t melt; still, anything has a thermal limit.
• There’s a Prop 65 warning tag. If you’re in a regulated environment or sensitive to that, plan accordingly.
• No wind or water resistance. These aren’t outdoor winter welding gloves.
• Warranty and return policies are modest; inspect them on arrival and size correctly.

Where they fit in the kit

These DeWalt welding gloves hit a sweet spot for shop and field work where you need solid protection without sacrificing too much dexterity:
- General fabrication, layout, and tacking
- MIG and stick on light to medium stock
- Oxy-fuel cutting and grinding
- Handling abrasive parts and shop chores

They’re not a replacement for heavy foundry-style mitts or insulated high-heat gloves, and they’re not my first choice for delicate, high-precision TIG.

Buying advice

• If you’re on the edge of sizes, go up one. Expect a snug fit initially that eases with use.
• Keep them dry and let them break in naturally.
• Pair them with proper tools for handling hot work; treat them as PPE, not as tongs.
• If you need prolonged heat shielding or frequent contact with hot metal, choose a thicker, lined glove instead.

Recommendation

I recommend these gloves for welders and metalworkers who split their time between fabrication tasks and short welding runs and who value dexterity as much as protection. The buffalo leather/Kevlar build, long gauntlet, and thoughtful reinforcements make them a dependable, comfortable choice for MIG, stick, oxy-fuel, and general shop work. They’re not intended for sustained high-heat contact or delicate TIG finesse, and they don’t like water, but within their intended use they’ve held up well and kept my hands safe without slowing me down. If that matches your workload, these belong in your drawer.