General Finishes Water Based Wood Stain, 1 Quart, Walnut

Why I reached for this stain

I wanted a rich walnut tone on a few indoor pieces—an oak side table, a poplar mantle, and a set of maple shelves—without dealing with solvent fumes or messy oil cleanup. This water-based walnut stain from General Finishes promised oil-like workability with low odor, water cleanup, and the ability to hand-apply or spray. After running it through a handful of real projects, I came away impressed by its control and color potential, with a few caveats that are typical of fast-drying water-based systems.

What stands out

• Pigment load and color: The walnut tone is deep and refined, closer to a neutral dark brown than a reddish “traditional walnut.” It can be pushed dark enough to read as espresso in two coats, or thinned for a lighter, more transparent look.
• Indoor friendliness: This is a low-odor, low-VOC, noncombustible stain. I used it in a closed-up shop in winter without the headaches or lingering smell of oil.
• Versatility: It can be wiped, brushed, or sprayed, and it plays nicely with water-based topcoats. You can also intermix it with other water-based colors or tint a topcoat for toning and shading.

Setup and surface prep

Like most water-based stains, this one rewards good prep:

• Sand to at least 180–220 grit. I stop at 180 on open-grain woods like oak to maintain bite and go up to 220 on tight-grained woods like maple to keep things even.
• Expect grain raise. A quick “pre-raise” with a damp cloth, let dry, then a light pass with 220 helps minimize fuzz after staining.
• Stir thoroughly. This stain arrives thicker than many water-based products and the pigments settle hard. I had to stir longer than I expected—think minutes, not seconds—until it transformed from chunky to a smooth, uniform consistency. A quick strain through a paint filter helps eliminate tiny clumps.
• Skip steel wool. Tiny steel fibers and water don’t mix; they can rust later. Use synthetic pads if you need to abrade.

Application by hand

I had the best control applying by rag or foam brush, then wiping back with a lint-free cloth.

• Open time and thinning: Out of the can, it dries fast. That’s an upside for turnaround, but it can leave lap marks if you work slowly. For larger surfaces or in warm, dry conditions, I thin it with water—about 10–25%—to extend open time and keep a wet edge. Thinning also helps the color lay more evenly on blotch-prone woods.
• Technique: Work small sections, flood on, and wipe back promptly with the grain. If I spot a heavy area, a lightly dampened cloth (water only) feathers it beautifully while it’s still open.
• Coverage: One coat gave me a great walnut tone on oak and poplar. A second coat evened out the maple and pushed the mantle darker without obscuring grain.

Expect a matte look after it dries. It isn’t a finish; you’ll need a topcoat for protection and sheen.

Spraying performance

Sprayed through an HVLP rig, it behaved well once thinned. I reduced around 20% with water and used a light, wet pass. For flat panels, I either left it as a spray-only application or “spray and wipe” if I wanted more character. Spraying also helped avoid some of the blotching I saw on tight-grained maple when wiping. If you’re comfortable with toners, you can put a tiny amount of this stain into a compatible water-based topcoat to create a shading pass—handy for evening out color or nudging pieces slightly warmer or darker without loading the pores.

Color and consistency across species

• Red oak: A natural match. The stain settled into the open grain and delivered a classic walnut look with excellent depth. One coat was usually enough; two deepened the contrast nicely.
• Poplar: Took color more evenly than I expected, particularly when thinned. It’s easy to overshoot into “too dark” territory with full-strength pigmented stain on poplar; testing on offcuts is essential.
• Maple: The trickiest of the bunch. Thinning and a quick pre-condition (or spray application) helped avoid blotches. I found a “wipe on, wipe off immediately” approach worked best; don’t let it sit.

In general, this stain runs a shade darker than its name suggests at full strength. That’s not a criticism—I like the richness—but it underscored the importance of test boards and controlled thinning to hit the target color.

Dry time, recoat, and sanding

It sets up quickly—touch-dry in minutes and ready for another pass relatively soon, depending on temperature and humidity. That quick dry is a double-edged sword:

• Pro: Fast turnaround and less dust risk landing in wet product.
• Con: Demands a plan for keeping a wet edge; break projects into logical sections.

Between coats, I lightly scuffed with a fine synthetic pad to knock down raised grain or nibs. If you make a mistake or leave a lap mark, the dry film sands away cleanly and can be reblended without drama, especially if you thinned the stain to begin with.

Topcoat compatibility and final look

Uncoated, the stained surface is dry, matte, and a bit lifeless—as expected. The transformation happens under a water-based topcoat. I used a flat finish on the mantle for a rustic, reclaimed look and a satin on the side table for a soft sheen. Both topcoats warmed the walnut just a hair and added clarity. If you need extra control over final color, tinting the first topcoat pass with a small amount of this stain acts like a toner to unify panels or correct minor unevenness. Stay within water-based systems for compatibility.

Cleanup, safety, and indoor use

Water cleanup is straightforward—soap, water, done. There’s essentially no lingering odor, and the noncombustible nature lowers the risk profile in a small shop. This is an indoor-only product; for exterior projects, look elsewhere.

Limitations and learning curve

• Not a gel stain: If you’re shopping for a non-drip gel, this isn’t it. The consistency is thicker than some water-based dyes, but it’s still a fluid stain.
• Fast open time: Plan your sequence, thin as needed, and avoid overbrushing. Warm, dry air accelerates drying; a slightly dampened wipe cloth can save a panel if you’re quick.
• Blotch-prone woods: Maple, birch, and some pines will show their temperament. Thinning, pre-raising grain, light application, or spraying helps.
• Stirring is non-negotiable: Those pigments settle hard. Under-stirred stain will apply unevenly and ruin your color match.

Practical tips

• Stir longer than you think, then strain.
• Test on offcuts, including under your chosen topcoat.
• Thin 10–25% with water to extend open time and improve leveling.
• Work in sections and keep a wet edge; wipe excess promptly.
• Use synthetic pads for scuffing; avoid steel wool.
• Expect grain raise; pre-raise and sand lightly before staining.

Who will appreciate this stain

• DIYers who want low odor and water cleanup without giving up rich color.
• Pros who need repeatable results and the option to spray, wipe, or tone with a topcoat.
• Anyone building custom colors; it intermixes well with other water-based stains and paints from the same line.

If you prefer the long open time and “wet” look of oil, or you rely on a true gel for verticals, you may find this product’s speed and viscosity less forgiving without a slight adjustment to technique.

Recommendation

I recommend this water-based walnut stain for indoor furniture, trim, mantels, and even floors, provided you’re comfortable working with a fast-drying water-based system or willing to thin it for more time. It delivers a deep, classy walnut tone with excellent pigment strength, plays nicely with spray or wipe techniques, and keeps the shop air easy to breathe. The learning curve is modest—stir thoroughly, thin when needed, and work in manageable sections—and the results are rewarding, especially once you lock it in under a quality water-based topcoat. If your workflow demands a true gel or you need the leisurely pace of oil, choose accordingly. For most indoor projects where control, cleanup, and color matter, this stain earns a spot on the shelf.