BuleVina 10 Pcs Adjustable Solar Panel Mounting Bracket Clamps Wide Photovoltaic Support Mid for Secure Solar Panel System pv, Aluminum Roof Mount Kit Hardware with Nut Bolt Fit for Standard Unistrut

Why I tried these mid‑clamps

I’ve been expanding a small PV row on a shed roof and wanted to keep the hardware simple: standard 1-5/8 inch Unistrut as the rail, nothing proprietary, and clamps that wouldn’t corrode in the weather. That’s what led me to the BuleVina mid‑clamps—an aluminum mid‑clamp set with stainless hardware that’s meant to drop into Unistrut, twist to lock, and cinch down between adjacent modules. I put them to work on a pair of 100–200W-class framed panels on Unistrut, then added a few more panels to see how they scaled.

What’s in the box and what they’re for

This is a 10‑pack of aluminum mid‑clamps with matching stainless bolts and nuts. Mid‑clamps are the pieces that sit between two adjacent modules on a rail, capturing the inner lips of each frame and tying them down to the rail. You still need end‑clamps (not included) to anchor the ends of each row; these are only the “middles.” The pack size is practical: two clamps per panel‑to‑panel joint (one per rail), so 10 clamps will secure five panel joints—enough mid‑hardware for a row of six modules, assuming you already have end clamps.

The clamps are lightweight, corrosion‑resistant aluminum. The hardware is stainless steel, which is the right call outdoors. The color is a clean white—subtle on light roofs and panels.

Installation experience

Setup was straightforward with Unistrut. The channel nuts drop into the strut slot, rotate 90 degrees to bite the lips, and you’re ready to run the bolt up through the clamp. I set my rails square and laid two modules with a 1/2 inch gap for airflow and thermal expansion. The clamp faces centered nicely on the inner frame lips. Alignment didn’t require a third hand; once the channel nuts are rotated and the clamp is resting on the frame lips, you can snug both sides lightly, true the gap, and then torque evenly.

A few notes from the install:

• Thread engagement: On standard framed modules, the supplied bolt length was adequate with a couple of millimeters to spare. On a thicker frame profile I tested, I was near the end of the threads. If you run 40–45 mm frames (or add bonding washers), consider keeping a few longer stainless bolts on hand.

• Tooling: A basic wrench or socket does the job. Expect quick work if you pre-stage all the channel nuts in the strut before laying panels.

• Torque and care: Aluminum frames can deform if you crank too hard. I tighten until the panels can’t be shifted by hand and then give a modest final turn. If you have a torque wrench, use the panel OEM’s recommended clamp load. Without one, “firm and even” on both rails is the safe rule.

• Spacing: It’s easy to keep a consistent inter-panel gap with a scrap spacer (I used a composite shim). Tight gaps look clean but remember to leave room for thermal movement and drainage.

Once you’ve done one pair, the rest go quickly. On a four‑panel test row, the mid‑clamps cut my alignment time compared to generic L‑brackets substantially, mostly because the channel‑nut rotation eliminates fiddly washers under the rail.

Fit, grip, and stability

After tightening, the grip on the frame lips felt solid. I did the usual push/pull checks—first on each panel, then across the whole row—and saw no slip or micro‑movement at the clamp points. Over a few weeks of wind and a couple of hard rains, nothing backed off. I do a re‑torque check after the first week on any new array and everything stayed put.

These clamps do not have serrated bonding teeth or star washers built in, which is typical for generic mid‑clamps. That means they are not a one‑piece bonding solution. If you need equipment grounding via the rail, incorporate listed bonding hardware or use dedicated grounding lugs and bonding jumpers as required by your local code. Functionally, as pure mechanical clamps, they do the job; electrically, plan your grounding separately.

Build quality and corrosion resistance

The aluminum bodies are cleanly machined with tidy edges. The anodized or coated white finish is even, and after storms and a routine hose‑down, I saw no staining or flash rust—what I’d expect from aluminum plus stainless. If your Unistrut is zinc‑plated steel (most is), be mindful of dissimilar metals in wet, salty environments. A thin isolating washer or a dab of anti‑seize on stainless threads helps prevent galling and reduces seizing over time. I also like to hit exposed cut ends of Unistrut with a touch of cold‑galv spray.

Thickness-wise, the clamp bodies are on the slimmer side. That’s not inherently a problem—lighter clamps are fine if the contact area is adequate—but it does mean the overall “stack height” is lower than some heavier mid‑clamps. In practice, that only matters if your frame lips are very tall or you use additional bonding washers; then you may be glad you have a couple longer bolts in your kit.

Compatibility and use cases

• Rails: These are intended for standard 1‑5/8 inch Unistrut. They’re not for proprietary solar rails that use special T‑bolts.

• Panels: Work best with conventional framed modules. If your frames have unusually narrow or rounded inner lips, check the contact patch before fully torquing.

• Environments: Aluminum + stainless is a good pairing for rooftops, RV roofs, and marine‑adjacent installs. They’re light enough to be a non-issue on mobile platforms.

• Pack sizing: For small arrays or expansions, a 10‑pack hits a sweet spot. For a new install of two modules on two rails, you’ll use two mid‑clamps total (one gap × two rails), so you’ll have spares for future growth.

Tips for a cleaner, safer install

• Pre‑plan your clamp positions to land on the module manufacturer’s designated clamping zones (often 1/4 to 1/3 of the frame length in from the ends). That protects the glass and ensures load ratings.

• Keep your inter‑panel gap consistent with a spacer. It looks professional and improves airflow.

• Add anti‑seize to stainless hardware to prevent galling.

• If you need grounding, add listed bonding clips or lugs at the rail and run an equipment grounding conductor as required.

• Re‑check torque after the first heat cycle and again after the first big wind.

What I liked

• Simple, fast engagement with Unistrut channel nuts; no fussing under the rail
• Lightweight aluminum with stainless bolts resists corrosion
• Clean look in white; unobtrusive between panels
• Pack of 10 suits add‑ons and small arrays without overbuying
• Solid mechanical hold on standard framed modules

What could be better

• Clamp bodies are relatively thin and low‑profile; thicker frames may push the limits of the included bolt length
• No integrated bonding features; you’ll need separate grounding hardware
• Not compatible with proprietary rail systems

Who they’re for

If you’re building or extending a Unistrut‑based array—on a roof, shed, or RV—these mid‑clamps are a straightforward, budget‑sensible way to tie panels together cleanly. They’re ideal for DIYers who value simplicity and for pros doing small add‑ons or service replacements where matching a proprietary rail system isn’t practical. If you’re working on a fully listed, inspector‑driven residential install with a proprietary rail system and integrated bonding, you’ll likely stick with that ecosystem instead.

The bottom line

The BuleVina mid‑clamps do exactly what a Unistrut‑centric build needs: they drop in, lock, and hold panels securely without drama. They’re light, corrosion‑resistant, and easy to work with. The only caveats are their modest profile—watch bolt length with thicker frames—and the lack of built‑in bonding. Neither is a deal‑breaker for me; both are solvable with a couple of longer bolts in the kit and proper grounding hardware.

Recommendation: I recommend these mid‑clamps for anyone assembling or expanding a Unistrut‑based solar array who wants simple, corrosion‑resistant hardware that installs quickly and holds well. They’re a solid, practical pick for small to medium DIY projects and service work, provided you handle grounding separately and keep an eye on bolt length for thicker module frames.