DeWalt 5 in 1 Multifunction Hacksaw

Why this 5‑in‑1 hacksaw earned a spot in my kit

I’m not short on saws, but I’m always looking for ways to carry less without giving up capability. That’s what drew me to the DeWalt 5‑in‑1 hacksaw. On paper it promises a lot—standard hacksaw, flush‑cut setup, low‑profile option for tight spots, a long‑reach mode, and a pistol‑grip jab saw—without feeling like a gimmick. After putting it through metal, PVC, and drywall work on a few jobs, I can say the concept works. It’s not flawless, and there’s a small learning curve, but it’s a serious, shop‑worthy tool once you’ve set it up right.

Build and ergonomics

The frame is all business: metal, rigid, and heavier than a bargain hacksaw, but balanced enough that the weight helps you track a straight line. The high‑tension mechanism is the star—it winds the blade up tight and keeps it there. That tension matters more than most folks think; it’s the difference between a blade that wanders and one that cuts true. The handle has enough contour and rubber to stay comfortable during longer cuts, and the overall profile is low enough that the nose fits into places where a traditional saw won’t.

There’s a clever bit at the front: pull off the nose and you’ve got a pistol‑grip handle for jab‑saw work. With a reciprocating‑saw blade or a dedicated drywall blade, it becomes a tidy little pad saw for cutouts. That swap takes seconds and genuinely reduces the number of tools I carry into a ceiling space or a tight utility room.

Configurations and setup

The 5 modes I used regularly:

• Standard hacksaw: Blade at 90 degrees for most cuts.
• Flush/angle cut: Blade at 45 degrees for clearing obstructions or cutting close to a surface.
• Low‑profile: Shortened frame configuration for working inside cabinets and between studs.
• Long‑reach: Blade anchored at the front of the frame to reach behind pipes and hangers.
• Pistol‑grip jab saw: Front handle removed for drywall and plunge cuts.

Here’s the part worth calling out: the first setup out of the box took me a few minutes. Some fasteners were tight from the factory, and the angle‑change and low‑profile screws needed persuasion. A couple of practical tips from my experience:

• Break‑in helps. Back the key fasteners out fully, add a drop of light oil, and run them in and out a few times.
• Don’t over‑torque. The screws don’t need gorilla strength—just snug. If you find a head starting to feel soft, stop and use a well‑fitting driver; replace with a higher‑grade fastener if you plan frequent conversions.
• Pre‑configure for your day. If you know you’ll need low‑profile and jab‑saw modes, set those up in the shop. Doing it mid‑ladder is less fun.

Once the moving parts loosened up with use, I could flip between 90‑degree, 45‑degree, and long‑reach modes in under a minute.

Cutting performance

On metal: I cut 3/8‑inch threaded rod, EMT conduit, and Unistrut. The high tension keeps the blade from buckling and gives a clean, square cut—especially noticeable on threaded rod where a sloppy cut chews nuts. With a 24 TPI bimetal blade, two or three strokes to score, then long even pulls did the trick. The frame doesn’t flex and the shoe tracks straight.

On plastics: PVC and CPVC are easy, but it’s also where any hacksaw will grab if you rush. I used a 14–18 TPI blade, and the long‑reach mode was handy for a drain line tucked behind a trap arm. Having the ability to go to 45 degrees let me keep the frame clear of the cabinet floor.

On wood/drywall: The pistol‑grip handle is more useful than I expected. It’s not a replacement for a dedicated jab saw if you’re cutting openings all day, but for one‑off boxes and trimming back a bit of OSB around a pipe, it’s great to have tethered to the main tool.

Blade life and tracking felt solid. Two things make or break this: proper tension and letting the saw do the work. If you crank too hard into a cut or twist the frame off‑axis, any hacksaw blade will protest. This one urges good technique.

Working in tight spaces

The low‑profile setup is why I’d pick this over a standard frame for service work. I used it under a sink, inside a return plenum, and between joists for a hanger cut. The shortened height lets you keep stroke length without banging the frame into everything. The long‑reach mount earns its keep when you can’t get your hand where the blade needs to be—think ceiling threaded rod behind a duct line. Neither of these modes felt like an afterthought; the frame remains rigid and the blade tension stays high.

Usability notes

• Balance: Heavier than a basic hacksaw, but that mass stabilizes the stroke.
• Vibration: Minimal chatter when tensioned correctly; cuts feel controlled.
• Adjustments: Angle change is positive, but initial stiffness is real. A light lubricant and a careful first disassembly solve it.
• Storage: The frame design allows you to keep a spare blade with the tool, which is handy when switching between wood and metal tasks mid‑job.
• Warranty: Lifetime limited coverage adds peace of mind for a hand tool you’ll keep around.

I do wish the conversion steps were documented more clearly from the factory. Pictograms only go so far. After one setup session, it becomes second nature, but the first time shouldn’t feel like a puzzle.

Durability and maintenance

The frame is tough. I didn’t detect any racking even under high tension. The tensioner holds its setting and hasn’t slipped on me. Expect normal blade wear; I went through metal blades at the same rate I do with a traditional frame.

Two maintenance suggestions:

• Keep a small bottle of light oil in the kit. A drop on the tension screw and the configuration bolts once in a while keeps everything moving smoothly.
• Inspect fastener heads. If you swap modes frequently, consider upgrading any soft‑feeling screws with higher‑grade replacements of the same spec to avoid stripping.

What could be better

• Out‑of‑box stiffness. It smooths out, but the initial break‑in isn’t confidence‑inspiring.
• Fastener feel. One of the configuration screws on my unit felt softer than I’d like. Snug torque only; replace if you notice rounding.
• Weight. The mass helps while cutting, but if you’re hiking a lot of gear on a ladder, you’ll notice it compared to a basic frame.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re worth knowing before you buy.

Who it’s for

• Electricians, plumbers, HVAC techs, and maintenance pros who work in tight, awkward spaces. The low‑profile and long‑reach modes pay immediate dividends.
• DIYers who’d rather own one adaptable saw than three specialty ones.
• Anyone who values straight, predictable cuts in metal stock and appreciates a high‑tension frame.

If you almost never change configurations and just need the occasional cut on a bench, a simpler, lighter hacksaw might suit you better.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 5‑in‑1 hacksaw for users who will take advantage of its configurations. It cuts straighter than most budget frames thanks to the high‑tension design, it genuinely solves tight‑access problems with its low‑profile and long‑reach modes, and the convertible front handle means you carry one tool instead of a hacksaw plus a separate jab saw. Expect a short setup curve—back off and lubricate the key fasteners, learn the conversion steps once, and you’ll be set. The tool is a bit heavier and the initial screws can be stiff, but the day‑to‑day performance and versatility outweigh those drawbacks. Add the lifetime limited warranty, and it’s a smart, durable choice for the truck or the shop.