RUITOOL Japanese Hand Saw 6 Inch Double Edge Sided Pull Saw Ryoba SK5 Flexible Blade 14/17 TPI Flush Cut Beech Handle Wood Saw for Woodworking Tools

A compact ryoba that punches above its weight

I reach for small pull saws a lot—flush-trimming dowels, cleaning up proud joinery, sneaking up on a miter that’s just a hair long. The Ruitool ryoba, with its 6-inch blade and double-edged teeth, has been living on my bench for exactly those moments. It’s not a showpiece; it’s a compact, hardworking saw that does the fundamentals well and keeps a low profile in the tool bag.

Build and design

The blade is SK5 high-carbon steel, thin and flexible as a ryoba should be, with impulse-hardened teeth rated around HRC 60–63. One edge is finer (17 TPI) and the other coarser (14 TPI). Ruitool labels them for hardwood and softwood, respectively; practically speaking, I’ve used the finer side for crosscuts and cleaner finish work, and the coarser side for rips, notches, and faster stock removal.

At 6 inches, the blade is short for a ryoba, and that’s its purpose: control and access. It slips into spaces where a 9–10 inch ryoba feels clumsy, and it’s much easier to work one-handed. The beech handle is light and straightforward—no rattan wrap or exotic shaping—attached with rivets. It’s not a premium handle, but it’s comfortable and keeps the balance point close to the blade, which matters for precise pulls.

Cutting performance

This saw tracks straight. Once I set a kerf, the blade follows it without wandering, even when I cut without a guide block. On the pull stroke, the blade stays tensioned, so you can keep it thin and flexible without buckling. That flexibility is what makes flush cuts possible: you can lay the blade flat against a surface and make a clean pass without digging in.

The teeth geometry is a highlight. The tri-facet grind clears chips efficiently for a small saw, and the set is conservative, which minimizes surface scratching. On hardwoods like maple and oak, the 17 TPI edge leaves a crisp, almost burnished surface when I’m patient and keep my stroke light. The 14 TPI side is quick in softwoods—pine, fir, cedar—and surprisingly capable when ripping thin stock or cutting tenon cheeks.

In practical tasks:
- Flush trimming dowels and plugs: clean and controllable. A single pass with 320 grit blends the surface.
- Trimming proud miters: the short blade makes it easy to nibble to the line without overcutting.
- Small joinery corrections: sneaking a kerf along a shoulder or shaving a high spot is where the saw earns its keep.
- Light pruning or shop cleanup cuts on dry wood: it will do it, though it’s not a garden saw.

Learning curve and technique

If you’re used to Western push saws, a ryoba rewards a different tempo. Start every cut with almost no pressure—just a few short, gentle pulls to establish the kerf—then lengthen the stroke. Let the saw do the work. If you muscle it, you’ll fight the teeth, polish the cut, and risk deflecting the blade.

For flush cuts, two small tips help:
- Slip a thin card or a piece of blue tape under the blade to protect delicate finished surfaces.
- Keep your pull angle low and your pressure light; you’re shaving, not sawing.

Because the set is minimal, if you over-flex the blade or cut at a steep angle, you can leave faint witness marks. They sand out quickly, but technique matters.

Ergonomics

The beech handle is simple but effective. It’s sized for one-handed use, so I can hold the workpiece with my other hand or reach into tight spots without contorting my wrist. I prefer a light coat of boiled linseed oil or wax on bare beech to improve grip and fend off shop grime. Balance feels neutral; you don’t have to fight the saw to keep it on line.

If you’re accustomed to the wrapped handles on higher-end Japanese saws, this will feel more utilitarian. The edges of the handle are a bit square out of the box; a minute with sandpaper to break the corners improves comfort.

Where it excels

• Precision flush cuts: trimming dowels, plugs, and pocket-hole caps without scarring adjacent surfaces.
• Small, controlled joinery work: adjusting miters, cutting small notches, and refining shoulders.
• Portability: it lives in a compact tool roll and doesn’t dominate your bench.
• Beginner-friendly accuracy: the blade’s stiffness on the pull stroke and straight tracking make it easy to guide.

Where it falls short

• Not a production saw: the 6-inch stroke is efficient for detail work, but it’s not the tool for resawing or long cuts.
• Handle fit and finish: functional rather than refined; nothing wrong with it, just not premium.
• Non-resharpenable teeth: like most impulse-hardened ryobas, the teeth aren’t practical to sharpen. Eventually, you’ll replace the blade or the saw. This model’s blade is fixed, so plan on replacing the whole tool down the line.

Durability and maintenance

Impulse-hardened teeth keep their bite. After a stretch of shop use across hardwoods and softwoods, the saw still cuts fast and clean. That said, SK5 is carbon steel; treat it like any other high-carbon tool. Wipe it down after use, avoid green, sappy material, and add a touch of camellia oil or any light machine oil to prevent rust. If you’re working resinous woods, a bit of mineral spirits on a rag lifts pitch from the teeth.

The handle is beech—tough enough for shop duty, but it appreciates a protective finish. A quick oiling helps it age gracefully and resist sweat and glue.

Comparisons and context

In the world of Japanese pull saws, the typical trade-offs are blade length, tooth geometry, and handle comfort. Longer ryobas (9–10 inches) are faster in long cuts and more versatile for general carpentry. Compact ryobas like this one lean toward control, portability, and flush work. High-end saws add wrapped handles, ultra-clean tooth grinds, and replaceable blades at a higher price.

The Ruitool sits in the value segment but doesn’t feel sloppy. It tracks better than many budget pull saws I’ve used, and the tooth geometry is cut cleanly enough to leave respectable surfaces in hardwood. Where you notice its price point is in the handle finish and the non-replaceable blade.

Tips for best results

• Use the finer side for clean crosscuts and hardwood; the coarser side for ripping and softwood.
• Start with feather-light strokes to set the kerf, then lengthen the pull.
• For flush cuts, protect surfaces with a shim or tape, and keep the blade flat.
• Let the saw’s full length do the work—short, choppy strokes slow you down and heat the teeth.
• Keep the blade clean and lightly oiled to prevent rust and pitch buildup.

Bottom line

The Ruitool ryoba is a small, sharp, and genuinely useful pull saw that favors precision over brute speed. It excels at flush cuts and fine adjustments, tracks straight with minimal fuss, and fits where a full-size ryoba feels awkward. The beech handle is plain but comfortable; the blade is flexible without feeling flimsy. You give up some refinements—most notably a replaceable blade and a more refined handle—but you get reliable performance and control in a compact package.

Recommendation: I recommend this saw as a smart, budget-friendly addition for beginners, hobbyists, and pros who want a compact ryoba for flush and finish work. If you primarily need a fast, long-stroke saw for big cuts or you want a premium handle and replaceable blade system, look at larger, higher-end ryobas. For everyday trim, joinery touch-ups, and precise one-handed cuts, this Ruitool earns its spot on the bench.