DeWalt 50 in. (1250 mm) Extra Large Trigger Clamp

First impressions

A 50-inch bar clamp is overkill—until it isn’t. The first time I reached for this DeWalt 50-inch clamp, it was because nothing else could bridge a wide span while giving me one-handed control. It’s a niche size for sure, but once you’re working across joists, door frames, long torsion boxes, or awkward spans where a pipe clamp won’t fit or a parallel clamp is too short, the utility becomes obvious.

Build and design

The clamp combines a reinforced nylon body with a heat-treated I‑beam steel bar. The bar is black-oxide coated, resists rust reasonably well, and the I‑beam profile adds stiffness without too much weight. At about 2.3 kg (roughly 5 lb), it’s balanced for its size—still hefty, but manageable one-handed when you’re in a ladder or reaching over framing.

The jaws ride smoothly on the bar and include removable, non-marring pads. The pads have enough give to protect finished faces and painted trim, but they’re firm enough to transmit pressure into construction lumber without squirming. The throat depth is 3-3/4 in. That’s generous for a trigger clamp and gives some flexibility when you’re stepping around moldings or trying to grab past a small lip, though it’s still shallow compared to parallel clamps.

A quick-change button flips the tool into a spreader. The conversion is quick and tool-free, and the safety stop keeps the head from sliding off the bar while you’re switching modes.

Clamping performance

DeWalt rates this clamp at up to 600 lb of force. I don’t test with a load cell in the shop, but in use it feels stronger than the typical “HD” trigger clamps and well suited to structural tasks: pinching a twisted 2x into line, holding a stair stringer tight while you fasten, or locking long 1x stock against a ledger. The ratcheting trigger stacks pressure predictably, and the quick-release lever bleeds pressure with control rather than springing open.

Across most of its range, clamping is solid. At full extension you’ll see some bar deflection—expected on a 50-in clamp under real load. On softwoods I never ran short of power. On harder woods, you’ll still get the bite you want, but as with any trigger clamp, it’s not a substitute for a screw clamp when you need sustained maximum pressure for edge-gluing dense hardwood.

A few practical notes from the shop:
- Keep the bar clean. Fine dust and pitch buildup can reduce bite and make the pawl slip under high load. A wipe with mineral spirits now and then helps.
- Don’t oil the bar. Lubricant can make the mechanism too slick and encourage slippage.
- Pre-seat the jaws by hand, then ratchet. You’ll get more uniform pressure and less tendency for the jaws to creep on smooth surfaces.

Spreader function

Converted to a spreader, the clamp reaches up to about 58 in. I use it for dry-fitting pocket door frames, opening bowed casing before fastening, and pressing deck boards apart to swap a spacer. In spread mode, deflection is more noticeable at the longest setting, so accuracy demands a lighter touch. Within a few feet of spread, though, it’s predictable and much faster than futzing with a screw jack or handmade wedge.

Ergonomics and control

The handle contour is comfortable, and the trigger arc builds pressure without overextending your wrist. One-handed operation is genuinely useful at this size. I routinely hold stock with a free hand, position the fixed jaw with my hip or forearm, and tighten with the trigger—something I can’t do with long screw clamps.

Weight is the tradeoff. Holding the clamp overhead for long runs will fatigue your forearm, especially in repeated clamping cycles. For tasks like clamping ledger boards above shoulder height, I set a temporary support or use a secondary, lighter clamp to stage the piece, then bring in this clamp to lock it down.

Accuracy and deflection

On assemblies that require straightness—like bringing two sheet goods into co-planarity—I check with a straightedge once it’s under pressure. The bar remains acceptably straight for most construction tasks, but under heavy force at full span it can bow a few millimeters. If you’re gluing up cabinets and need dead-straight clamping across long edges, a parallel clamp or a pipe clamp pair may be a better choice. For framing, subfloors, or temporary positioning, the 50-inch clamp is more than adequate.

Durability and maintenance

The bar’s finish holds up well against scratches and incidental knocks. The reinforced body hasn’t shown cracks or stress whitening in normal use. The wear point to watch is the clutch mechanism. On any trigger clamp, dust and resin can build around the pawl and toothed rail; when that happens, high loads can cause the jaw to creep. A simple maintenance routine has kept mine reliable:
- Wipe the bar and teeth periodically.
- Pop off the pads and clear debris from the contact surfaces.
- Inspect the quick-change button; if grit gets in, it can feel gummy and prevent full engagement.
- Store the clamp with light tension released to avoid long-term compression of the pawl spring.

The pads are removable and replaceable, which is good because large-span clamps see a lot of edge contact. I haven’t had the pads pop off during use, but if you twist the clamp while under load, you can shift a pad slightly—realign before the next squeeze to prevent denting a surface.

Where it shines

• Long-span positioning: Pulling 2x members into alignment across wide bays, holding fascia or ledger boards, and staging long rips on the bench.
• Temporary platforms and jigs: Building a cantilevered working surface or extending an outfeed with 1x stock clamped to sawhorses.
• Door and frame work: Drawing jambs square and holding casings while you nail, especially with the spreader function.
• Decking and fencing: Nudging boards together or apart where a smaller clamp can’t reach from reference to edge.

Limitations

• Throat depth: At 3-3/4 in, you’re not reaching deep into assemblies. If you need to clamp past a thick face frame or a wide lip, plan for blocks or consider a different clamp style.
• Weight and bulk: In tight interiors or ceiling spaces, the long bar can snag and the weight will tire your arm. For repetitive overhead work, mix in lighter clamps for staging.
• Ultimate pressure: Despite the strong rating, trigger clamps aren’t the best tool for high-pressure glue-ups in hardwood. They’re champions of speed and convenience, not maximum PSI.

Value and warranty

This clamp sits above entry-level options in both size and capability, and that’s reflected in its price category. What you get is speed, reach, and enough force to handle structural tasks a smaller trigger clamp can’t. The 1-year limited warranty is basic but typical for a hand tool of this type. For longevity, care matters more than coverage—keep the mechanism clean and it should serve well.

Tips for better results

• Use sacrificial cauls or blocks to broaden contact on soft materials.
• If you need parallel pressure, pair two clamps opposite each other to balance bar flex.
• In spreader mode, increase pressure gradually and check alignment frequently; long spreads amplify small errors.
• Label your clamps by length; grabbing the 50-inch when you only need 24 inches is fatigue waiting to happen.

Recommendation

I recommend this 50-inch clamp for carpenters, remodelers, and builders who routinely work across wide spans, as well as for woodworkers who need a fast, one-handed solution for large assemblies. It delivers strong, predictable clamping with genuinely useful reach, the spreader function is quick to deploy, and the ergonomics are good for a tool of its size. Keep the bar and mechanism clean, respect its limits compared to screw or parallel clamps, and it will become a reliable problem-solver when standard clamps come up short. If your work rarely exceeds 24–36 inches, it’s more clamp than you need; otherwise, it’s an effective, time-saving addition to the rack.