tutooper 6-Circuit LED Blade Fuse Block Box, 6Way Distribution Block with Blown Fuse Indicator, Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V

Why I reached for this fuse block

I’ve been cleaning up a few small 12–24 V DC projects lately—an old trail rig, a small skiff console, and a portable fridge setup in a camper—and I wanted a compact way to distribute power without stacking ring terminals on a battery post. This 6‑circuit fuse block from tutooper hit the sweet spot: six fused outputs, an integrated negative bus, and LED indicators for blown fuses, all in a footprint that’s roughly four inches square. It’s simple, tidy, and sized right for small to mid‑size accessory loads.

Build quality and layout

The overall design is smart and straightforward. The lid snaps on with two tabs and is clear enough to see the LED indicators beneath. Inside, nickel‑plated copper bus bars are used for both the positive and negative sides, which is the right choice for corrosion resistance and conductivity. The fuse clips hold standard ATO/ATC blade fuses securely without feeling too tight, and the positive feed and ground studs are tall enough to stack a few ring terminals if you need to.

The block provides six fused circuits and a matching set of six negative posts, so you don’t need to add a separate ground bus. Pre‑printed labels are included and actually legible, which makes it easy to mark circuits on the cover. The mounting base has pre‑drilled holes and enough rigidity that it doesn’t flex or bow once screwed down.

On paper, it’s rated to 32 V DC, 100 A total input, and up to 30 A per circuit. That’s right where it should be for automotive, RV, and small marine jobs. The size and electrical envelope make it a good fit for lights, pumps, radios, chargers, fridges, and relay‑controlled loads.

Installation experience

I mounted one under a boat console and a second one on the passenger‑side kick panel of a Jeep. The compact 4 × 4 inch footprint made placement easy in both cases. The included instruction sheet is to‑the‑point, and the wiring scheme is exactly what you’d expect: one main positive feed, one main negative, then branch circuits and returns.

A few notes from the install:

• Hardware length: The mounting screws that came with mine were on the short side for thicker backing surfaces. I swapped them for longer stainless fasteners for the boat install. If you’re installing in a damp or marine environment, I’d recommend stainless hardware across the board.
• Feed wire sizing: The 100 A total rating is a ceiling, not a target. Size the main feed for the actual load you expect to pull, and protect it with a main fuse near the source. For ~40–60 A real‑world usage, 6 AWG works well on short runs; go heavier if you’re pushing closer to the limit or have a longer cable.
• Terminations: The posts accept standard ring lugs; I had no trouble stacking a couple of 6 AWG lugs alongside smaller ones where needed. Crimped, heat‑shrink‑sealed terminals and a dab of dielectric grease made for a robust connection.
• Labels: The label sheet is genuinely helpful. I appreciate being able to see “Bilge,” “Horn,” or “Aux Lights” through the clear lid without having to lift it.

Everything powered up on first try, and the cover snapped on securely even with a few stiffer cables routing out the sides.

In use: power distribution and diagnostics

Once installed, the advantage over in‑line fuse holders is immediate. Wires are organized, every circuit is clearly identified, and you’ve got a central point to test and service. The integrated negative bus is a big quality‑of‑life improvement—no extra bus bar to find space for, and far fewer splices or ring terminals crammed on the battery negative.

The LED blown‑fuse indicators do exactly what they should. If a fuse pops and there’s still a load path to ground, the corresponding LED lights up. That saves time when a pump or accessory stops responding and you’re trying to figure out if it’s a bad fuse, a disconnected wire, or a failed device. One nuance to keep in mind: if the downstream circuit is entirely open (say, a disconnected lead), the LED may not illuminate because there’s no return path. That’s normal behavior for these indicator circuits.

There’s no relay integration here, and there shouldn’t be—this is a fuse block. For higher surge loads or switched accessories, add relays upstream as needed.

Electrical capacity and limitations

• Total input: 100 A
• Per circuit: up to 30 A
• Voltage: up to 32 V DC

For most builds, the practical total draw will be well under 100 A. It’s still important to size the main feed fuse appropriately and distribute loads sensibly. I ran a fridge, two light circuits, a VHF radio, and a small pump off one unit without any sign of temperature rise or voltage drop across the bus at typical currents.

Because the bus bars are nickel‑plated copper, resistance is low and corrosion resistance is improved. Over time, that pays off in fewer gremlins due to oxidized contacts, especially if you’re around moisture or salted roads.

Marine and off‑road considerations

This block isn’t sealed, and it isn’t advertised as waterproof. I’d call it splash resistant with the cover on. In the skiff, I installed it under the console, away from spray, with drip loops on the cable runs. That’s the right environment for it—protected but not hermetically sealed. I would not put it in a bilge, a wheel well, or an engine bay that sees frequent wash‑downs.

For off‑road use, it’s sturdy enough for vibration when mounted to a solid panel. Use thread‑locker on your mounting screws and strain‑relief your harnesses so the terminals aren’t bearing cable loads.

What could be better

• Mounting screws: The included screws are short for some applications. Plan on your own fasteners, ideally stainless.
• Environmental clarity: While the materials inspire confidence, there’s no explicit statement about fastener metallurgy or an IP rating. A note on stainless hardware and a basic ingress rating would help buyers choose the right location.
• Fuse puller/tool slot: A simple plastic fuse puller and a parking spot for it inside the cover would make service even easier.
• Cover tabs: The two‑tab cover locks well enough, but a third clip or a small center screw would add extra security for high‑vibration environments.

None of these are deal‑breakers for me, but they’re worth knowing before you start the install.

Who it’s for

• Ideal: Small to mid‑size 12/24 V accessory builds in cars, trucks, UTVs, boats (in protected locations), and campers. Great for lights, electronics, pumps, and low‑to‑moderate duty accessories.
• Maybe not: Exposed locations where you need a fully sealed fuse box. Look for a waterproof IP‑rated unit in engine bays that see regular pressure washing or marine splash zones.

Practical tips

• Add a main fuse near your battery or distribution point sized to protect your feed cable.
• Use heat‑shrink ring terminals and dielectric grease to improve longevity.
• Keep spare fuses mounted in your tool roll; the block accepts standard ATO/ATC blade fuses.
• Label everything up front. It pays off the first time something trips or you hand the project to someone else.

Recommendation

I recommend this 6‑circuit fuse block for anyone building a tidy, reliable low‑voltage distribution point in a protected location. It combines the right features—built‑in negative bus, clear LED fault indication, compact footprint, and corrosion‑resistant conductors—at a sensible price. It’s not a waterproof unit and the included mounting hardware could be better, but those are easy to work around with thoughtful placement and your own fasteners. If you want a clean, serviceable wiring hub that keeps accessories organized and simplifies troubleshooting, this one earns a spot in the kit.