Feekoon 1 Pack 3 Outlet Light Socket Adapter, Convert E26/E27 Bulb Socket to 3 Prong Outlet with Extension Cord, Light Bulb Plug Adapter Converter Suitable for Outdoor Porch Garage Patio Use

A clever way to turn a light socket into power

A ceiling lampholder isn’t an outlet, but this little adapter gets you surprisingly close. I used the Feekoon light‑socket adapter to add three grounded receptacles where there were none: a porch light, a garage ceiling socket, and a basement utility fixture. It made quick, tidy work of powering string lights, LED shop lights, and a small fan—without running new cable or opening a single junction box.

This is very much a convenience tool, not a permanent electrical upgrade. Within that lane, it’s well thought out and easy to live with.

What it is and how it’s built

The adapter screws into any standard E26/E27 lamp socket and gives you three three‑prong outlets on a short pigtail. The cord is roughly 7 inches, which is just enough to relieve mechanical stress on the socket and give you flexibility in how plugs hang. It’s rated 125 V AC, 10 A (1,250 W) and uses a flame‑retardant PVC housing. There’s an internal fuse designed to open if you exceed 10 amps.

The pigtail design matters. Many screw‑in “disk” adapters put all the weight directly on the lampholder. By moving the outlets off the centerline, this one reduces torque on the ceramic or plastic socket and lets bulky plugs or power supplies sit cleanly. The outlets have a firm grip; I didn’t get any sag or intermittent contact with standard or grounded plugs.

Fit and finish are straightforward. The Edison base threaded smoothly into all the fixtures I tried, and the outlet face has just enough clearance to seat right‑angle and transformer‑style plugs without crowding neighboring sockets.

Setup: truly plug‑and‑play

Installation took under a minute:

• Switch off the light circuit (or the wall switch).
• Remove the bulb and check the socket for damage or corrosion.
• Thread in the adapter until snug—hand tight is enough.
• Flip the switch back on and test with a plug‑in outlet tester or a small load.

Because power is coming from a light circuit, your wall switch will typically control the outlets. I used that to my advantage outside: the porch switch now turns on string lights. In the garage, I wanted the outlets “always on,” so I left the switch on and controlled the devices at their plugs or built‑in switches.

Real‑world use cases

• Porch/balcony lighting: I replaced a porch bulb with the adapter and ran a set of weather‑rated string lights and a tiny USB brick for a camera. It’s neat to be able to control everything from the indoor switch. I kept the adapter under a covered soffit; while the unit is stated for indoor/outdoor use, it’s not weatherproof, so don’t let it sit in direct rain.

• Garage shop lights: One ceiling lampholder became a three‑outlet cluster powering two LED shop lights and a tool battery charger. Wiring new outlets in a finished garage isn’t always practical; this was a clean, reversible solution that took seconds. No flicker, no heat issues over several months of evening use.

• Seasonal decor: In a front entry with no exterior receptacle, this made holiday lighting painless. I ran a short outdoor‑rated extension from the adapter to spread the load across two sides of the entryway, all controlled by the existing switch and, on a timer, a smart plug.

I deliberately kept loads modest. This is excellent for low‑draw devices—LED lighting, chargers, small fans, Wi‑Fi cameras, smart plugs. It’s not the place for a space heater, air compressor, or a corded miter saw.

Performance and safety considerations

Two electrical realities define how and where to use an adapter like this:

• Load limit: The adapter is fused at 10 A (1,250 W). Many light circuits are on 15 A breakers, but lampholders and the fixture wiring are often only intended for a few hundred watts of lighting. Add up your device wattage and leave comfortable headroom. LED lighting makes this easy; resistive loads and motor loads climb fast.

• Switch control: Unless your fixture is on an always‑hot feed, the outlets go dead when the wall switch is off. That’s convenient for lights; it’s a nuisance for chargers. Decide which behavior you want and plan accordingly.

There’s also the perennial question of grounding. The adapter has three‑prong outlets, but a standard Edison lampholder provides hot and neutral, not a dedicated equipment ground. In many fixtures, the screw shell is neutral and the metal body may or may not be bonded to ground. In practice, don’t assume you’ve got a real ground at the outlet. I used a plug‑in receptacle tester in each location; in two older fixtures, the tester showed an open ground. That’s acceptable for double‑insulated or low‑risk loads like LED lights, but I would not plug in grounded power tools and rely on a “ground” that may be nonexistent. If a true equipment ground is essential, this isn’t a substitute for a proper receptacle on a grounded circuit.

Heat was a non‑issue in my installs. The PVC body stayed cool with a combined load under 150 watts. I wouldn’t use it inside enclosed fixtures or cans; give it air and keep cords away from hot housings.

Finally, I couldn’t confirm a UL or ETL mark on the sample I tested. That doesn’t automatically make it unsafe, but if third‑party certification is a must for your shop or HOA, confirm before purchase.

What I liked

• Fast, reversible way to add power: No wiring, no holes, no trips to the panel.
• Pigtail reduces strain: Less leverage on the lampholder than rigid screw‑in cubes.
• Three outlets with solid grip: Secure connection even with heavier plug heads.
• Built‑in 10A fuse: A meaningful last line of defense against overload.
• Works indoors and under cover outdoors: Great for porches, garages, sheds.

What could be better

• Grounding ambiguity: Three‑prong form factor can mislead. I’d love a clearly labeled “ground may not be present” note on the outlet face or documentation.
• Not weatherproof: “Outdoor use” needs interpretation—use under a roof or in an enclosure.
• Switch dependence: A tiny slide‑through switch or bypass option would be neat, though that’s more a wish than a flaw.
• Bulb replacement trade‑off: You lose the light bulb in that socket. For some locations, a pass‑through lampholder plus outlets would be even more versatile.

Tips for safe, smart use

• Add up the watts. Stay well under 1,250 W; with older fixtures, I cap total load around 400–600 W.
• Test before relying on ground. A $10 outlet tester will tell you what you have.
• Keep it dry. Use only in covered outdoor locations or inside weatherproof housings.
• Avoid enclosed fixtures. Give the adapter and plugs room to breathe.
• Use outdoor‑rated cords and devices if you’re outside, and add a drip loop so water can’t run into the outlets.
• Label the wall switch so others know it controls outlets.

Who it’s for

Renters, DIYers, and anyone needing temporary or seasonal power where only a bulb socket exists will get a lot of value from this adapter. It’s perfect for string lights, shop lights, chargers, smart home gear, and low‑draw accessories. If you need a code‑compliant, grounded receptacle for tools or heating appliances, invest in a proper circuit instead.

Bottom line

The Feekoon light‑socket adapter is a practical, thoughtfully designed workaround for spaces starved of outlets. In my testing, it provided reliable power for low‑draw gear, kept mechanical stress off the lampholder, and made clever use of existing switches for control. Respect its electrical limits and the realities of grounding, and it’s an easy recommendation for temporary or light‑duty use.

Recommendation: I recommend this adapter for low‑power, temporary, or decorative loads where running a new receptacle isn’t feasible. It’s quick to install, stable in use, and the three‑outlet pigtail design is smarter than the rigid alternatives. Just don’t treat it like a full‑fledged, grounded wall outlet, and you’ll be happy with the convenience it delivers.