PaeorRorL 3 Packs Light Socket Plug Adapter,3 Prong Light Socket to Plug Adapter,E26 Light Bulb to Outlet Socket Converter,2/3 Prong Screw in Outlet Socket for Camera Garage Porch, White

What this adapter is and why I tried it

I picked up a three-pack of PaeorRorL’s E26 light‑socket plug adapters to solve a familiar problem: spots in my home where I need an outlet but only have a bare-bulb fixture or a lamp holder. Each adapter screws into a standard E26 lamp socket and gives you two polarized, three‑prong receptacles. The unit is rated for 1250 W (10 A at 125 V), and the housing is a fire‑resistant plastic. It’s a simple idea executed competently—and in the right scenarios it’s genuinely handy.

I tested the set in a few real‑world situations: an unfinished basement with porcelain keyless fixtures, a garage ceiling socket controlled by a wall switch, and a front‑porch fixture. I also tried it in a table lamp to see how it behaved in more “furnished” spaces.

Design and build

The adapters are compact enough to avoid looking ridiculous in an open fixture, but they do stick out farther than a standard bulb. The body is smooth white plastic with a textured grip ring that makes threading it into a socket easy, even if you’re on a ladder and wearing gloves. Each adapter provides two NEMA 5‑15 outlets, positioned so two slim plugs fit side by side; large “wall wart” power supplies can block the neighboring receptacle, so plan accordingly.

Fit and finish are good for the price. The Edison base threads smoothly and seats firmly in fixtures that aren’t recessed. Plug retention is positive—devices click in with a reassuring bite and don’t feel wobbly. I didn’t notice any warmth from the body during normal use with low‑draw loads (LED shop lights and a camera).

There’s no pass‑through bulb socket. Installing the adapter replaces your bulb with two outlets. That’s the right choice for most utility use (garage, basement), but it means you’ll lose that fixture’s light unless you plug a lamp or panel light back into the adapter.

Installation and setup

Installation is straightforward:

• Kill power at the switch (or breaker).
• Remove the bulb.
• Thread the adapter into the E26 socket by hand; don’t overtighten.
• Restore power and plug in your devices.

Two quick notes from my testing:

• Recessed or deep-collar fixtures can be problematic. In one keyless fixture with a slightly recessed socket, the adapter bottomed out on the fixture housing before the Edison threads made electrical contact. An inexpensive E26 thread extender solved it. In standard open fixtures and lamps, it screwed in without issue.
• Shade clearance matters. In a table lamp, the adapter and plugs collided with the shade harp. It works, but it’s clunky; I’d reserve this adapter for utility fixtures rather than decorative lamps.

Performance and real-world use

The adapter does exactly what it promises: it turns a light socket into a switched outlet. In the garage, I removed the bulb from a ceiling fixture and plugged in two 4‑ft LED shop lights. Flipping the wall switch now brings the shop lights to life; the setup is cleaner than dangling cords to a distant wall outlet.

On the porch, I replaced the bulb in a weather‑protected fixture with the adapter and powered a small camera and a low‑profile LED puck. Both ran reliably. If your fixture is controlled by a switch, remember that cutting power at the switch cuts power to the plugged‑in devices—fine for lights, not ideal for networked gear that expects constant power. For always‑on use, you need the switch left on or a circuit that’s permanently hot.

I also tried a motion‑sensor flood fixture: removing one bulb and inserting the adapter effectively gave me a motion‑activated receptacle. That let me trigger a brighter plug‑in panel light whenever motion occurred. It’s a neat trick for sheds and dark entryways, provided the total load stays within the 10 A limit.

Safety, ratings, and what to watch for

A few practical guardrails:

• Respect the 1250 W/10 A combined load across both outlets. This is not for heaters, big power tools, or appliances with high inrush current. It’s best for LED lighting, small electronics, and low‑draw accessories.
• Polarity and ground: The outlets are polarized and accept a three‑prong plug. Proper polarity depends on the lamp holder being wired correctly (hot to the center contact, neutral to the shell). Equipment grounding depends on the fixture’s ground path. In older installations, ground may be missing. I used a simple plug‑in outlet tester to verify hot/neutral orientation and ground continuity before trusting grounded devices.
• Location rating: The adapter isn’t weatherproof. In damp or exterior locations, use it only in enclosed, dry‑rated fixtures. Don’t expose it to rain or condensation.
• Heat: Pair it with cool-running loads (LEDs and electronics). I wouldn’t mix this with incandescent bulbs or enclosed, heat‑prone fixtures.
• Code considerations: This creates a convenience outlet where the code may not expect one. It’s fine as a temporary or task‑specific solution in many settings, but don’t use it as a substitute for permanent, code‑compliant receptacles—especially where GFCI/AFCI protection is required (bathrooms, unfinished basements, garages in many jurisdictions).

Where it shines

• Utility lighting upgrades: Converting a single-bulb porcelain fixture into a switched feed for LED shop lights is the use case where this adapter makes the most sense.
• Light‑powered accessories: Doorbell transformers, holiday lights, small cameras, or a Wi‑Fi bridge can piggyback off an existing lamp holder.
• Quick fixes in older homes: If outlets are scarce, this is a low‑effort way to add power without opening walls—again, with the caveats above.

Limitations and quirks

• Recessed cans and deep collars: The Edison base isn’t long enough for some recessed or shrouded sockets. An E26 extender will often solve it, but that adds length and leverage.
• Bulky plugs: Two large power supplies won’t fit side by side. A short, three‑prong pigtail splitter helps if you must use a wall wart.
• Aesthetics: In living spaces, it looks improvised. It’s best in garages, workshops, closets, and utility areas.
• Switched circuits: Anything you plug in is at the mercy of the light switch or sensor controlling the socket.

Durability and value

Across a week of daily switching in the garage and porch, everything stayed tight and quiet—no crackling, dimming, or heat. The fire‑resistant housing inspires confidence, and the textured grip is a thoughtful touch. At pack pricing, outfitting multiple fixtures is cost‑effective, and having spares is useful if you discover a socket that needs an extender or isn’t a good fit.

Tips for best results

• Verify hot/neutral and ground with a plug‑in tester before connecting sensitive or grounded equipment.
• Keep total load well below the 10 A limit; I aim for under 5 A when possible to account for startup surges.
• Use in open, dry fixtures; avoid recessed cans unless you add an E26 extender and confirm clearance.
• Consider short, lightweight plug‑in devices to reduce strain on the socket.
• Label the wall switch controlling the adapter so someone doesn’t unknowingly cut power to critical gear.

The bottom line

This light‑socket plug adapter is a practical, inexpensive way to turn a lamp holder into two usable outlets. It installs in seconds, feels solid, and—within its 10 A envelope—runs low‑draw devices reliably. It isn’t a replacement for adding a proper receptacle where code requires one, and it has fit limitations in recessed fixtures. But in garages, basements, sheds, and porches with basic open sockets, it’s an easy quality‑of‑life upgrade.

Recommendation: I recommend it for utility and task‑specific use where you need switched or always‑on power from an existing E26 light socket and your loads are modest (LED lighting, small electronics, cameras). Verify polarity and ground, mind the 10 A limit, and avoid recessed or wet locations. If you need a permanent, code‑compliant outlet or plan to power high‑draw devices, hire an electrician instead.