eRqILUJI 2 Pack, Light Socket to Plug Adapter, Convert E26 Light Socket to 3-Prong Outlet Adapter and Light Bulb Socket

Why I tried this light‑socket outlet adapter

Old garages, basements, and storage spaces often give you a pull-chain lamp and not much else. I’ve run my share of extension cords across rafters and floors—never ideal. I picked up this two‑pack of eRqILUJI light‑socket adapters to see if I could turn those E26 lamp holders into something more useful: a place to keep the bulb and also plug in a couple of low‑draw tools or lights without rewiring.

What it is

Each adapter screws into a standard E26 medium-base socket and converts it into:
- One pass‑through light-bulb socket (max 60 W for the bulb itself)
- Two 3‑prong grounded outlets (shared max 1250 W across both outlets)

The housing is a white, flame‑retardant, heat‑resistant plastic, with copper conductors inside. The form factor is compact enough to keep the bulb centered, with the two outlets oriented on opposite sides. Both outlets accept polarized 2‑prong and grounded 3‑prong plugs.

Setup and build quality

Installation is straightforward:
1. Turn off power at the switch (and I recommend the breaker if you’re unsure about the wiring).
2. Remove the existing bulb.
3. Thread the adapter into the socket snugly by hand.
4. Reinstall a bulb in the adapter’s top socket and plug in your device(s).

Threading felt precise and the adapter seated cleanly without wobble in porcelain and metal lampholders. It also felt secure in a garage door opener fixture. The white finish blends in with most ceiling fixtures better than the black adapters I’ve used in the past.

The outlets themselves grip plugs firmly. There’s enough space to fit two standard plugs; oversized wall‑warts may crowd each other, but slim, inline power supplies and grounded cords fit without issue. I used one adapter in a basement keyless lampholder and the other in a garage ceiling socket. Both passed the basic “does it feel solid and does the plug stay put” test.

One detail I appreciate: the adapter doesn’t dramatically increase height over the original bulb. That said, in enclosed fixtures or tight globes, the extra stack height may prevent the shade from reinstalling. In open keyless fixtures, utility lights, and pull‑chain sockets, clearance was a nonissue.

Performance in real use

I approached these as a way to add light and a couple of convenience outlets for light-duty gear. In practice, that’s exactly where they shine.

• Lighting: I ran an LED bulb in the pass‑through socket and plugged an LED shop light into one of the outlets. The wall switch now controls both, giving a uniform wash of light without extra cords. In another spot, I plugged in a slim LED light bar, again controlled from the switch. No flicker, no buzz, and no noticeable heat buildup with LED bulbs.

• Small devices: Low‑draw items like a tool battery charger or a small fan were fine. The shared load rating is 1250 W (roughly 10 A at 125 V), so adding a space heater, compressor, or any heavy‑draw appliance is out of scope. Keep the combined load reasonable and you’ll be fine.

• Always‑on vs switched circuits: Remember that whatever is plugged into this adapter will follow the light socket’s power. If the lamp is on a wall switch, those outlets will likely be switched too. That’s great when you want lights or accessories to come on together. It’s not great if you need an always‑on outlet for something like a camera DVR or a battery tender. In one location with a pull‑chain socket that’s always hot, I could leave the outlets energized and use the chain only for the bulb—ideal for a low‑draw device that needs constant power.

• Heat and noise: With LEDs, the adapter stayed cool to the touch. I wouldn’t push the 60 W bulb limit with incandescents in enclosed fixtures; that’s asking for heat buildup. I noticed no audible hum and no radio interference.

Grounding, safety, and code considerations

This is the section worth reading twice.

• Grounding reality check: The adapter provides 3‑prong receptacles, but a proper equipment ground only exists if the light fixture itself is grounded. Many older lamp holders are fed with two‑wire cable and no ground. Don’t assume you’ve created a real ground by virtue of the third hole. Use a simple outlet tester to verify hot/neutral/ground before relying on the ground pin for safety.

• Load limits: The total across both outlets plus any attached bulb should not exceed 1250 W, and the bulb socket has its own 60 W maximum. With modern LEDs, that’s easy to respect. Avoid resistive heaters, large shop vacs, air compressors, and other high‑amp tools.

• Environment: This is not weather‑rated or GFCI‑protected. Don’t use it in damp/wet locations (bathrooms, outdoors, basements with moisture issues) unless the circuit is GFCI‑protected upstream and the fixture is appropriate. For exterior applications, a proper weatherproof outlet is the right fix.

• Not a permanent substitute: Think of this as a convenience adapter, not a code‑compliant substitute for installing a receptacle. For long‑term or permanent needs, have a licensed electrician add a proper outlet on a dedicated circuit.

• Fixture ratings: Some fixtures—especially on garage door openers—have wattage limits and device restrictions. Check the manufacturer’s guidelines before plugging accessories into an opener’s lamp socket.

Where it worked best for me

• Basement work area: One adapter let me use the existing bulb and add an LED shop light right over the bench, all controlled by the wall switch. No cords across the floor.

• Garage ceiling: I used the second adapter to power a pair of LED light bars while keeping a bulb in place for broad ambient light. The outlets were firm, and the white body blended with the porcelain lampholder.

• Storage use: In a unit with an always‑hot pull‑chain, the adapter provided an easy way to power a low‑draw device continuously while leaving the bulb on the chain.

In each case, the combination of two grounded outlets and a pass‑through bulb socket made the setup more flexible than single‑outlet adapters. The shared 1250 W cap is ample for lighting and small devices, and staying on LEDs kept temperatures down.

What I’d improve

• Ground indication: A small built‑in ground indicator (even a simple test light) would help users confirm the fixture is grounded. As it stands, you’ll need a separate tester.

• Outlet spacing: Two standard plugs fit, but wall‑warts can crowd. Slightly staggered outlets or a few more millimeters of spacing would reduce conflicts.

• Labeling: The 60 W bulb limit and 1250 W total rating are printed, but a bold, high‑contrast label on the face would be harder to miss.

Tips for safe, effective use

• Use LED bulbs. They run cooler and keep you well under the 60 W bulb limit.
• Verify grounding with an outlet tester before relying on the third prong.
• Keep combined loads light—think lighting, chargers, sensors, small fans.
• Assume the outlets are switched with the light unless you know otherwise.
• Avoid enclosed fixtures with tight globes; check clearance before reinstalling shades.
• If you need permanent or outdoor power, install a proper receptacle.

Pros and cons

Pros
- Converts a single E26 lamp holder into two 3‑prong outlets plus a bulb socket
- Solid fit and firm plug retention
- White housing blends into typical ceiling fixtures
- Adequate 1250 W total rating for lighting and light‑duty loads
- Simple, tool‑free installation

Cons
- Ground is only present if the fixture is grounded; easy to assume otherwise
- Outlets can be switched off with the light circuit, which may be undesirable
- Tight fit for bulky power adapters
- Not weather‑rated or GFCI‑protected

Final thoughts and recommendation

This adapter does exactly what I wanted: it makes under‑served spaces immediately more usable without running extensions or opening a junction box. The build feels solid for its price, the two grounded outlets are genuinely useful, and the pass‑through bulb socket keeps you from sacrificing general illumination. As long as you stay within the 1250 W total and 60 W bulb limits—and you verify grounding where it matters—it’s a practical, tidy solution.

I recommend it for anyone who needs temporary, light‑duty power at a ceiling or pull‑chain fixture—garages, basements, storage areas, and utility rooms are perfect candidates. If your use case involves heavy appliances, outdoor exposure, or a need for code‑compliant permanent power, skip the adapter and install a proper receptacle. For everything else, this is a small, affordable upgrade that solves a common problem cleanly and safely.