DeWalt 4" x 2" T11 Cup Grinding Wheel A16R XP

Why I reached for this cup wheel

I picked up the DeWalt cup wheel to solve a simple, stubborn problem: a raised concrete joint creating a trip hazard on a neighborhood sidewalk. I wanted fast removal and a broad, controllable contact patch without resorting to a full-size concrete grinder. A Type 11 flaring cup is purpose-built for that. Over a few weeks I put this wheel through a mix of tasks—leveling that 1/2-inch lip across a few feet of slope, cleaning and profiling a foundation wall for crack repair, and blending down a couple of proud welds on mild steel. It proved more versatile than I expected, with a few caveats worth noting.

Build and design

This cup wheel is a 4-inch diameter, 2-inch-thick Type 11 with a 5/8"-11 arbor, so it threads onto most North American angle grinders and dedicated cup-wheel guards. The flaring profile gives it a wide, stable contact patch that’s easy to keep flat and square against the work. DeWalt’s metal backing adds a reassuring stiffness—no flex, no weird harmonics when you start a pass. The abrasive mix is aluminum oxide with silicon carbide. In practice, that translates into a coarse, aggressive cut on masonry and a solid, predictable bite on ferrous steel.

Two specs dictate how you use it safely and effectively:
- Maximum speed is 9,000 RPM. Many common 4-1/2" grinders spin at 10,000–11,000 RPM no-load, so a variable-speed grinder or a tool with a lower rated speed is the right pairing.
- The 2-inch thickness demands a proper Type 11 cup-wheel guard for clearance and containment. Don’t run it with a flat disc guard.

Setup and compatibility

Thread-on fit was clean, and the wheel seated squarely on both a variable-speed 5" grinder and a low-speed sander/grinder with a 5/8"-11 spindle. Balance out of the box was good; there was no noticeable wobble. Make sure you:
- Use the correct flange/nut combo per your grinder’s manual for cup wheels.
- Install a cup-wheel guard that clears the 2-inch height.
- Keep the tool under 9,000 RPM and let the wheel do the work.

I ran it primarily between 6,500 and 8,000 RPM. At those speeds, it bites aggressively without feeling skittish.

Performance on concrete and masonry

This is where the cup wheel shines. On the sidewalk trip hazard, the wheel removed material quickly and evenly. I scribed a guide line about two inches off the joint and worked a shallow bevel toward the high side. In roughly 20 minutes, the lip was gone and the transition felt safe underfoot. The wheel tracks flatter than a standard Type 27 grinding disc, which makes it easier to avoid gouging.

On a foundation wall, I used it to strip paint and open up hairline cracks for epoxy injection. The abrasive blend cuts through coatings and laitance fast, leaving a uniform, toothy profile that takes repair resins well. The scratch pattern is coarse—think in the range you’d expect from a very low grit—so for final cosmetic concrete, plan to follow with a finer abrasive or a rubbing stone if you want a smoother finish.

A few use notes from the concrete work:
- Dust control is critical. The wheel moves material faster than most shop vacs can extract if you race your passes. A shroud with a high-CFM vacuum and slow, overlapping sweeps kept dust manageable.
- Avoid wet grinding with standard electric grinders. Water and household current don’t mix unless you’re using a tool and setup designed for wet use.
- Work at a shallow angle—with the cup nearly flat—and let the wheel’s face do the grinding. Tilting too steeply concentrates load and can dig ruts.

Performance on steel

I didn’t expect to like this wheel on steel, but it’s useful for surfacing. For knocking down a high weld on a plate or blending a bevel across a wide area, the cup profile keeps you flat and spreads the pressure. It’s not my choice for tight corners or heavy weld removal—that’s where a Type 27 or a dedicated beveling wheel wins—but for wide, flat blending it leaves a consistent, reasonably cool cut if you keep moving. It can glaze if you lean too hard or linger; lighten up and refresh the abrasive with a quick pass on scrap if you notice burnishing.

I’d avoid it on aluminum; loading is likely, and there are better abrasives for nonferrous work.

Control, feel, and ergonomics

The wheel feels planted. The mass of the metal backing and the 2-inch height damp vibration and help the tool track straight. On a mid-size grinder, the combo feels substantial but not unwieldy. You’ll feel some torque reaction on startup; brace accordingly.

Overheating wasn’t an issue on masonry. On steel, the usual rules apply: moderate pressure, keep the wheel moving, and don’t blue the work. I didn’t experience excessive ringing or chatter, provided I stayed under 9,000 RPM and used a shallow contact angle.

Durability and wear

Wear rate on cured concrete was reasonable for how aggressively it cuts. After leveling a few feet of 1/2-inch lip and prepping several crack sections, the wheel still had plenty of life. The metal backing resists edge chipping if you clip a corner. On steel, life is longer than a comparable coarse flat disc when used for surfacing rather than heavy edge grinding.

This wheel is often sold in a pack of four. For pros and facilities crews, that’s a sweet spot—one set covers multiple jobs with consistent results. For occasional DIY work, a four-pack may be more than you need, but it does mean you won’t get caught short mid-project.

What it’s not

• A finishing tool. The scratch pattern is intentionally coarse. Plan secondary steps if appearance matters.
• A corner specialist. The cup profile can’t reach tight inside corners or along obstructions.
• A high-speed wheel. Respect the 9,000 RPM limit and use the correct guard.

If you do a lot of heavy concrete removal, a segmented diamond cup may outlast and outrun this wheel on very hard aggregate. For mixed workloads—masonry prep, trip-hazard knockdowns, and occasional steel surfacing—this abrasive blend is a solid middle ground.

Safety and best practices

• Use a proper Type 11 cup-wheel guard and keep the grinder at or below 9,000 RPM.
• Wear a P100 or at least N95 respirator, eye and hearing protection, and gloves.
• Pair with a dust shroud and a high-CFM vacuum; slow your feed rate if your vac can’t keep up.
• Keep the wheel nearly flat; a 5–15 degree tilt is plenty.
• Don’t use water with standard electric grinders.
• Let the wheel stop fully before setting the grinder down; the mass keeps it spinning longer than a thin disc.

Who will appreciate this wheel

• Concrete repair and maintenance crews needing fast surface leveling and crack prep.
• General contractors who want one wheel that can move between masonry cleanup and steel surface blending.
• Facility and property managers dealing with sidewalks, slab transitions, and coating removal.

Homeowners with a few trip hazards or a foundation repair on the to-do list will also find it approachable, as long as the right guard and a variable-speed grinder are on hand.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt cup wheel for anyone who needs fast, controllable surface grinding on concrete and other masonry, with the bonus that it handles steel surfacing respectably. Its Type 11 geometry makes it easier to keep workpieces flat, the aluminum oxide/silicon carbide blend removes material quickly, and the metal backing keeps it stable and durable. Respect the 9,000 RPM limit, use the correct guard and dust setup, and you’ll get efficient, predictable results. If your work is strictly fine finishing or you need to reach tight corners, look elsewhere; if you need to flatten, profile, or knock down high spots with confidence, this cup wheel earns a spot in the kit.