GE Advanced Silicone Caulk for Kitchen & Bathroom, Clear, 10 fl oz Cartridge, 1 Pack - 100% Waterproof Silicone Sealant, 5X Stronger Adhesion, Shrink & Crack Proof

A clear, capable bathroom and kitchen sealant that earns its keep

I reached for GE’s advanced silicone caulk in clear for a round of bathroom and kitchen touch-ups—tub-to-wall joints, a leaky sink rim, and a few hairline gaps that had become tiny highways for ants. Over several weeks of use and observation, it proved to be a dependable, indoor-friendly, and genuinely waterproof silicone that does the basics very well and adds a few welcome conveniences.

What it is and where it fits

This is a 100% silicone, neutral-cure sealant in a standard 10 oz cartridge. In practice, that means two things that matter: it’s truly waterproof once cured, and it stays flexible for the long haul. The neutral-cure chemistry has a lower, less “vinegary” odor than acetoxy silicones, and it’s kinder to metals and natural stone—useful when you’re working around chrome fixtures or granite/stone backsplash areas.

The clear finish makes sense where you want the joint to disappear—glass shower doors, glossy tile, or around stainless and porcelain fixtures. If you’re caulking white tub surrounds or trim, a white variant would match better, but the clear I used blended nicely against ceramic tile and a composite sink.

Application: smooth, with a short but workable tooling window

I used a standard 10 oz caulk gun and cut the nozzle at a small angle to keep the bead tight. Flow was consistent—neither too runny nor stubborn—and it responded well to light gun pressure. As with any silicone, the tooling window is short. You have a few minutes to shape the bead before it skins over, so plan your passes and work in manageable sections. Masking with painter’s tape on both sides of the joint sped things up and produced crisp edges.

A few tips from the bench:
- Prep is make-or-break. Strip all old caulk (a plastic scraper and a sharp utility blade help), remove soap scum, and wipe with isopropyl alcohol. If you skip this, you’ll fight fisheyes and poor adhesion.
- Keep the bead small. With silicone, less is more. A 1/8–3/16 inch bead is plenty for most tub and sink seams.
- Tool lightly with a damp (not wet) fingertip or a dedicated caulk tool. Overworking introduces bubbles.
- Release gun pressure between pulls. That avoids dribble and keeps the back of the cartridge from seeing unnecessary force.

Cleanup, as expected, is solvent-based. Mineral spirits will take care of smears while the product is still fresh; once skinned, you’re in peel-and-pick territory. If you’re used to acrylic caulks that wipe away with water, adjust your process and mask generously. The low odor made indoor work comfortable; I still cracked a window out of habit.

Performance: waterproof, strong adhesion, and stable in use

Performance was the standout. Around a drop-in sink that sees constant splashes, the joint shed water from the first day. The manufacturer bills it as water-ready in about 30 minutes. In my testing, I kept heavy water exposure off for a couple of hours, then used the sink normally; no whitening, no washout, and the bead stayed intact. Full cure takes longer (plan on a day before sustained soaking), but the early water resistance is a genuine time saver for occupied households.

Adhesion was excellent on glazed tile, porcelain, chrome, acrylic, and laminate—what you’d expect in kitchens and baths. The “5x stronger adhesion” claim is hard to quantify without lab gear, but in simple peel tests it held tenaciously to glossy surfaces that can defeat lesser sealants. Where I sealed some ant-sized gaps along a tub leg, the bead gripped the tile edges cleanly and stayed put through temperature swings and routine cleaning.

Flexibility is another strong suit. Joints that see movement—tub-to-wall corners, sink rims, and countertop seams—benefit from a sealant that won’t harden and crack. Weeks in, there’s been no shrinking, no splitting, and no pulled edges, even where the tub flexes slightly as it’s filled. That’s the sort of stability that extends maintenance intervals.

Finish and aesthetics

The clear finish dries truly clear with a slight wet gloss that subdues as it cures. On glossy tile and porcelain it reads as a clean line rather than a highlighted seam. If you overwork it, microbubbles can cloud the look, so resist the urge to re-tool after the initial pass. Masking tape helps deliver a professional edge, especially in high-visibility areas like tub decks and backsplashes.

Because it’s silicone, it’s not paintable. If you need to paint trim or a wall edge after caulking, choose a paintable acrylic or a hybrid product instead. For kitchens and baths where the joint itself is the final finish, silicone is the right call.

Durability and maintenance

Silicone’s real value shows up over time: it doesn’t shrink, it tolerates repeated wet/dry cycles, and it resists the daily flex you get in bathrooms and kitchens. I’ve seen no signs of mildew in or under the bead so far, though that’s as much about prep as product—trapping old mildew under new caulk invites trouble. Clean regularly with a non-abrasive bathroom cleaner and avoid harsh solvents on the bead. If a section ever needs replacing, cut it out fully rather than trying to spot-patch; new silicone won’t bond reliably to an old silicone surface.

Coverage from a single 10 oz cartridge was solid—roughly 50–60 linear feet at a modest bead size—enough for a tub perimeter, two inside corners, and a couple of sink touch-ups with some left for odds and ends.

Limitations and best practices

No product is a cure-all, and this one has the usual silicone caveats:
- Not paintable. Plan your finish sequence accordingly.
- Tooling window is short. Work in sections and mask to control squeeze-out.
- Cleanup is solvent-based. Keep mineral spirits and paper towels on hand; water won’t help.
- Surface prep matters more than the brand on the tube. Remove old caulk, degrease, and dry thoroughly before application.
- For gaps wider than about 1/4 inch, use backer rod to set the correct joint depth. It improves flexibility and reduces waste.
- Avoid underwater or continuous-water immersion during the first 24 hours. “Water-ready” doesn’t mean fully cured.

One caution on application: ensure you puncture the inner foil seal fully and don’t over-pressurize the gun. Like any cartridge, a blocked nozzle or excessive force can cause a blowout at the plunger end.

Where it’s at its best

• Tub and shower perimeters, vertical inside corners, and shower door tracks
• Sink rims, faucet bases, and backsplash seams
• Around tile, glass, porcelain, enamel, acrylic/fiberglass surrounds, stainless and chrome fixtures
• Clear, minimal-visibility joints where you don’t want a paint line

If you’re working on painted trim, window casings, or anywhere you’ll paint over the joint, look to a paintable acrylic or hybrid instead. But for wet-area sealing and long-term flexibility, silicone is still the benchmark.

Recommendation

I recommend GE’s clear silicone caulk for kitchen and bathroom sealing. It’s easy to apply with a standard gun, has a low-odor neutral cure that’s comfortable indoors, becomes water-resistant fast, adheres strongly to the slick surfaces common in baths and kitchens, and has held up without shrinking or cracking. The clear finish looks clean and unobtrusive, and the flexibility inspires confidence in joints that see movement. Just remember the silicone rules: mask carefully, tool once, clean with solvent, and don’t expect to paint it. Follow those, and this tube delivers a durable, waterproof seal that should keep moisture—and tiny pests—where they belong.