GE Advanced Silicone Caulk for Kitchen & Bathroom, Clear, 2.8 fl oz Tube, 1 Pack - 100% Waterproof Silicone Sealant, 5X Stronger Adhesion, Shrink & Crack Proof

Why I reached for this tube

A leaking vanity backsplash and a tired tub seam were my excuses to try GE Advanced Silicone in clear. I wanted a truly waterproof seal that wouldn’t haze stainless, stain stone, or turn gummy after a few steamy showers. The promise of a 30-minute water-ready time and a small, easy-to-control tube made it an obvious candidate for a couple of kitchen and bath touch-ups.

Application and handling

This 2.8 fl oz squeeze tube is tailor‑made for small jobs: sink rims, backsplash edges, shower corners, and patch repairs. I cut a modest opening in the nozzle and was able to lay a controlled, even bead without a caulk gun—great if you don’t want to commit to a full cartridge for a single project.

A few notes from use:
- Surface prep matters. I scrubbed away soap scum, cut out the old silicone, degreased with isopropyl alcohol, and let everything dry completely. Silicone is unforgiving over contamination.
- Masking tape is your friend. I taped both sides of the joint, ran a thin bead, and tooled it with a caulk tool lightly spritzed with soapy water. The bead skinned fast, so don’t dawdle.
- The nozzle cap threads over the whole tip, not just the end, which helped keep the remainder usable for later touch-ups.

This is a neutral-cure silicone that releases methanol and ammonia during cure, so expect more of an ammonia/solvent note than the “vinegar” smell typical of acetoxy silicones. It’s noticeable for a few hours—ventilation is wise. I wore nitrile gloves and kept a window open.

Water readiness and cure

“Water-ready in 30 minutes” isn’t marketing fluff here. I finished a tub surround, waited 40 minutes, ran the shower for a quick test, and the bead shed water without turning milky or washing out. Don’t confuse water-ready with fully cured; I still avoided abrasive cleaning and mechanical stress for a full day. Depending on humidity and joint depth, full cure for silicone is typically around 24 hours. For deep joints or low humidity, give it more time.

Adhesion and flexibility

Adhesion was rock solid on the surfaces I tested—glazed ceramic tile, porcelain sink, quartz, painted drywall, and stainless. I can’t quantify “5x stronger” compared to other formulas, but I can say this: once it grabbed, it stayed put. No edge lifting after several weeks of hot showers and daily sink use.

Flexibility is where this product earns its keep. I saw zero shrinkage bands or hairline cracking as the vanity and backsplash experienced minor seasonal movement. If you’re sealing areas that see temperature swings or expansion/contraction (exterior window trim, sunlit shower walls, even the joint between a quartz top and a wood cabinet), a permanently flexible silicone like this trims the risk of gaps reappearing.

Finish and appearance

The clear finish is genuinely clear after cure—not cloudy. In use:
- On white tubs and sinks: it reads as a clean, crisp line that visually disappears.
- Against darker stone or stainless: it avoids the chalky halo you sometimes get with “translucent” products.

It doesn’t stain chrome, nickel, or bronze fixtures in my experience, and it didn’t leave oily residue on polished stone. The bead tools smooth, and the skin time is quick enough to discourage sagging but not so fast that you can’t correct small imperfections.

One practical limitation: silicone is not paintable. If you need to paint over a joint, choose a paintable acrylic or hybrid for that application, and reserve silicone for the wettest, highest‑movement seams.

Material compatibility

The tube claims broad compatibility—glass, metals, many plastics, woods, drywall, plaster, granite, cultured marble, ceramic, and porcelain—and my results lined up with that. A few caveats from decades of working with silicones:
- Some low‑surface‑energy plastics (like polyethylene and polypropylene) are notoriously hard to bond; this tube isn’t a magic exception.
- If you’re sealing natural stone, test on a scrap or hidden spot first. I didn’t see staining on quartz or porcelain, but natural marble can be temperamental with sealants and solvents.
- Avoid using it on surfaces you plan to paint later.

For deep or wide joints (more than about 1/4"), use backer rod to control depth and shape. Silicone performs best in a properly sized, well‑supported joint.

Durability and moisture performance

In the shower, around a sink, and at a kitchen backsplash, the cured bead has stayed watertight with no visible shrink or crack. It’s too soon to make multi‑year claims, but after weeks of daily exposure—steam, splashes, and temperature swings—the seal looks exactly like day one. I’ve had no mildew spotting on the bead so far, which is what I expect from a quality kitchen/bath silicone when surfaces are kept reasonably clean and dry between uses.

Cleanup and removal

Uncured silicone wipes off with mineral spirits; once cured, it’s a mechanical removal job (razor scraper and patience). Because this formula grabs so well, plan your tape lines and tooling so you don’t have to redo it. If you think you may replace a fixture soon, consider whether you want that level of tenacity in the short term.

Tube size, value, and use cases

At 2.8 oz, this is the right amount for:
- One vanity install or refresh
- A tub or shower corner and a few linear feet of perimeter
- Kitchen sink rim and a backsplash seam

If you’re redoing an entire tub surround or a long countertop run, buy a full cartridge. For precision and less waste, though, this small tube is ideal. The resealable cap actually kept my leftover material workable for a return visit two weeks later.

Safety and handling notes

Because this neutral-cure silicone releases methanol and ammonia during application and cure:
- Work in a well‑ventilated area.
- Wear gloves, and avoid skin/eye contact.
- Keep away from open flames, and store capped.
- Allow full cure before exposing to constant water pressure.

These are standard silicone precautions, but they’re worth repeating.

What I liked, what I’d change

Pros:
- Truly waterproof seal that’s water‑ready fast
- Strong adhesion across typical kitchen/bath materials
- Permanently flexible; no shrink or hairline cracks observed
- Clear finish that stays clear and doesn’t stain fixtures
- Handy squeeze tube with a full‑nozzle cap for reuse

Cons:
- Not paintable (inherent to silicone)
- Ammonia/solvent odor during cure—ventilation required
- Small tube size isn’t cost‑effective for large projects
- Hard to remove once cured (a pro and a con)

Who it’s for

DIYers and pros who need a reliable, long‑lasting waterproof joint in kitchens and baths—sink rims, tub and shower seams, backsplash edges, and around fixtures. If you want a clean, transparent finish without fussing with a caulk gun, this tube makes sense. If your project requires painting over the joint, or you’re covering many linear feet, choose a different chemistry or a larger cartridge.

Recommendation

I recommend GE Advanced Silicone for small to medium kitchen and bath sealing tasks where a clear, durable, truly waterproof joint is the priority. It applies cleanly, bonds tenaciously to common surfaces, hits that useful 30‑minute water‑ready mark, and cures to a flexible seal that hasn’t shrunk or cracked in my testing. The trade‑offs—odor during cure, non‑paintability, and tough removal—are the standard compromises of a high‑quality silicone. If that aligns with your project, this tube is a smart, low‑waste choice that delivers a professional‑looking result.