DeWalt 3/8 in. Steel Brad Point Drill Bit

Why I reached for this bit

Precise 3/8-inch holes show up all over my projects—shelf pins, knock-down hardware, dowel joinery, and clean through-holes in jigs. For those tasks, a brad-point profile is my go-to, and this 3/8-in brad-point bit from DeWalt has been in my drill roll long enough to earn a proper evaluation. I used it in a mix of softwood, hardwood, plywood, and MDF, both in a handheld drill and on the drill press, to see how it handles accuracy, hole quality, chip evacuation, and durability.

Design and build

This is a straightforward, well-ground brad-point bit made from high-speed steel with a straight 3/8-inch shank. The geometry is what you want in a wood bit of this type: a centered brad to start the hole exactly on your mark, with cutting spurs at the perimeter to shear wood fibers cleanly before the lips evacuate material. The flutes are smooth and consistent; mine arrived free of burrs and with a uniform grind on the cutting edges.

A note on dimensions: overall length is about 5.25 inches with roughly 3.5 inches of flute length. In practice, that means you can comfortably bore a little over 3 inches deep before chip evacuation becomes less effective. For typical cabinetry and jig work, that depth is more than sufficient, but if you’re planning very deep bores, a different style or extended-length bit would be more appropriate.

The straight 3/8-inch shank fits both 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch chucks. It seated securely in my keyless drivers without slipping, and it ran true in the drill press with no noticeable wobble.

Accuracy and starting

The main reason to use brad-point is accuracy, and this bit delivers. The center brad anchors right where you place it, which eliminates the “walking” you get with standard twist bits. On a drill press fence or in a doweling jig, it was trivial to split layout lines and repeat hole placement consistently. Freehand in a cordless drill, I could start holes on-edge without the bit skating around, which is especially helpful on narrow stock.

End grain can be a challenge for any bit; here, the brad point still helped, but I found easing the speed and letting the tip establish itself gave the cleanest start.

Hole quality in different materials

• Softwoods (pine, fir): Clean entry with minimal fuzzing. The rim spurs shear fibers effectively, so you don’t get the ragged lip common with standard twist bits. Exit tear-out was minor and easily controlled with a backer board.

• Hardwoods (maple, oak, walnut): The bit maintained clean perimeter shearing and produced straight, round holes with crisp walls. In maple, a notoriously unforgiving wood for drilling, I still saw clean entries. Backing remains important if you care about the exit face.

• Plywood and MDF: Plywood can splinter; the spur geometry did its job on the entry side. On the exit, a backer board is strongly advised. MDF cut smoothly with almost no chip-out, though it packs flutes quickly, so peck drilling improves chip clearing and heat control.

For laminates and veneered panels, I recommend painter’s tape over the entry mark plus a backer; combined with the brad-point, that routine reliably prevents chipping.

Chip evacuation and speed

The flutes are cut to move chips efficiently. In softwoods, chips spiraled out easily at moderate RPMs. In hardwoods, I preferred a slightly slower speed and a short pecking rhythm to keep the flutes clear and temperatures down. Even under continuous drilling, I didn’t see scorching or blueing on the bit, which speaks to both the grind and the HSS material.

If you do a lot of MDF or resinous pine, take a second to clear the flutes periodically—build-up can happen fast, and keeping the flutes clear preserves both hole quality and cutting edge life.

Durability and maintenance

High-speed steel is a sensible choice for a wood brad-point: it’s tough, holds an edge at realistic drilling temperatures, and can be resharpened. After multiple projects in hardwood and sheet goods, the cutting lips still felt keen, and the spurs continued to score cleanly. As with any brad-point, sharpening is more involved than with a standard twist bit. A dedicated jig or a light touch on the spurs with a fine diamond file helps extend life without altering the critical geometry.

I avoided drilling into metal hardware, screws, or staples; a single accidental hit can nick the spurs. If you’re working with reclaimed wood, a quick pass with a metal detector is cheap insurance.

Use with guides and jigs

This bit plays nicely with common woodworking jigs. In a self-centering dowel jig, the brad aligns perfectly and the flutes don’t bind in the bushings. On a drill press, it’s easy to hit precise depths because the brad point gives a clear “first contact” reference, and the straight flutes prevent the “chatter” you sometimes hear with aggressively twisted spirals.

For shelf-pin holes, the 3/8-inch size is common for European hardware and knock-down fittings. The clean shearing reduces the need for sanding the hole edges before inserting hardware.

Limitations

• Not a metal bit: While HSS can technically cut softer non-ferrous materials, the brad-point geometry and spur edges are purpose-built for wood. If you routinely drill metal or even plastics, use the right bit for those materials to avoid premature dulling.

• Depth ceiling: With about 3.5 inches of flute length, deep bores beyond that threshold risk poor chip evacuation. For deeper holes, consider an aircraft-length brad-point or a different drilling strategy.

• Exit tear-out still possible: This is inherent to drilling through wood. The bit reduces entry blowout significantly, but on the exit side, a backer board or drilling from both sides is still best practice.

• Sharpening learning curve: If you plan to maintain it yourself, invest a little time in understanding brad-point geometry, or expect to have it professionally sharpened when the time comes.

Comparisons and context

For fast, rough holes, a spade bit is quicker and cheaper but can tear fibers aggressively. For ultra-clean, flat-bottomed holes, a Forstner bit is superior but slower and more heat-prone, and it typically needs higher torque. This 3/8-in brad-point sits neatly between those extremes: faster than a Forstner, cleaner than a twist bit or spade, and far more precise when starting without a pilot.

If you only need occasional 3/8-inch holes in construction lumber, a standard twist bit will do the job. If you care about tear-out, hole position, and repeatability—cabinetry, furniture, and jig building—this brad-point earns its keep.

Tips for best results

• Use a backer board to prevent exit tear-out, especially in veneered panels.
• Let the brad establish the hole; don’t rush the first contact.
• Clear chips with peck drilling in dense or fibrous stock.
• Match RPM to material: slower for hardwoods, moderate for softwoods.
• Check for embedded metal in reclaimed lumber to protect the spurs.
• Store the bit with a tip guard; brad points are easier to ding than twist tips.

Value and return policy

Sold as a single piece, this bit fills a common size slot without forcing you into a set. Given the build quality and performance, the value feels fair. The 90-day return policy adds a bit of confidence if you manage to receive a dud or discover a manufacturing flaw, though mine arrived properly ground and true.

Recommendation

I recommend this 3/8-in brad-point bit for anyone who needs clean, accurately placed holes in wood—cabinetmakers, furniture builders, and serious DIYers alike. It starts precisely, cuts cleanly with minimal tear-out, and evacuates chips efficiently. The high-speed steel construction holds up under regular use, and the straight shank runs true in common chucks. It’s not the right choice for deep bores beyond its flute length or for drilling metal, but within its intended use, it performs reliably and leaves professional-looking results.