Kalas 300 ft 12/2 w/G Submersible Well Pump Wire Cable

What it is and where it fits

The Kalas 12/2 pump wire is a 300‑foot roll of submersible well pump cable with two 12‑gauge solid copper conductors plus a green insulated ground, all under a tough PVC jacket. It’s built for wet locations and the mechanical abuse that comes with pulling wire down a casing and through a pitless adapter. I’ve used it for residential well work and light farm installs where a two-wire submersible (with ground) is the spec, and it has held up as expected.

The positioning here is straightforward: long-run, wet‑location power delivery for 240V two‑wire pumps that don’t require a separate start/control conductor set. If you’re running a three‑wire pump that needs a control box, you’ll want a 3‑conductor plus ground cable instead.

Build quality and handling

Out of the box, the jacket on this cable is the first positive sign. It’s a dense, uniform PVC that doesn’t feel chalky or brittle, and it resisted nicking when dragged past the casing lip and pitless opening. The insulation on the individual conductors and the green ground is evenly bonded and cuts cleanly with a proper stripping tool. I saw no voids or thin spots.

The conductors are solid copper, which matters for both electrical performance and handling. Solid 12 AWG offers low resistance for the gauge and keeps voltage drop in check over long runs. The tradeoff is stiffness: it doesn’t snake around tight bends as easily as stranded cable. In the context of a well drop, that stiffness is mostly a non-issue once you’re taping to poly or PVC drop pipe at regular intervals, but you do notice it when you’re routing through a cramped well cap or a shallow conduit sweep at the wellhead. If your install demands repeated tight bends or you’re working in a very narrow casing with lots of existing lines, stranded may handle more gracefully. For most straightforward drops, the solid conductors are fine and arguably more durable under clamping and taping.

Electrical performance and voltage drop

On a recent install with a 1 HP 240V two‑wire pump set around 220 feet, the 12/2 with ground performed to expectation. Using typical copper resistance for 12 AWG and the round‑trip length, the calculated voltage drop was in the low single‑digit percentage at normal pump current—comfortably within recommended limits. Pumps are sensitive to voltage sag, especially during startup, so doing the math for your depth and pump load is essential. As a rule of thumb:

• For runs around 200–300 feet and loads under ~10 amps, 12 AWG is often acceptable.
• If you’re deeper, or pushing higher current, consider 10 AWG to keep voltage drop tighter.

The copper here is consistent and crimps reliably with standard submersible heat‑shrink butt splices. I meggered the assembled run with the pump leads terminated, and insulation resistance was excellent for a wet‑location cable prior to immersion.

Installation experience

Pulled from the coil, the jacket has a moderate amount of “memory,” but it relaxes once it’s laid out and taped. I paired it with poly drop pipe and taped at 8–10 foot intervals, adding cable guards at joints. The stiffness helps keep the run tidy against the pipe, and the jacket tolerates firm taping without cold-flowing or slicing.

At the pump end, the solid conductors seat well in crimp barrels; use a hex or proper die rather than a generic crimper and take the time to do staggered splices. Heat‑shrink with adhesive lining is non-negotiable underground. At the wellhead, the jacket handled the pitless entry without scuffing through. I routed the top run in PVC conduit to the disconnect and then into the control enclosure; the cable pulls smoothly, though I’d avoid trying to force it through back-to-back 90s. If you must navigate tight sweeps, stranded conductors may save you frustration.

One practical note: the roll length is enough for a typical residential install at moderate depth with extra to reach the control point. I still measure and plan splices ahead of time; cutting it close on length is a recipe for problems if you need to reposition a splice or trim back a nicked section.

Durability in service

After immersion, the jacket remains pliable and shows no sign of swelling or chalking. The cable doesn’t seem abrasion-prone against the drop pipe or cable guards. In my experience, the weak points in pump wiring are almost always at terminations and splices, not in the body of the cable; this cable hasn’t given me reason to think otherwise. Keep your splices waterproof and mechanically sound, and the jacket will do its job.

Chemical resistance is always dependent on local water chemistry, but PVC pump cable is the norm for a reason: it stands up to most well environments. If your well has known aggressive chemistry, consult your pump supplier about jacket compatibility and consider more frequent inspections.

Safety and code notes

The cable includes a dedicated insulated ground, which I consider mandatory. Bonding the pump and well casing properly is part of a safe system. As always, verify listing and local code requirements for wet-location conductors, burial, and conduit. I run this cable in conduit from the wellhead to the service equipment rather than direct-bury; it keeps mechanical protection high and future maintenance simpler.

Check your pump’s wiring requirement before you order: two-wire plus ground for internal start components, or three-wire plus ground if your model uses an external control box. This Kalas cable is the former. Also confirm amp draw and run length to ensure 12 AWG is suitable for your voltage drop target.

What I liked

• Solid copper conductors deliver predictable performance over long runs.
• Tough PVC jacket resists nicks during pull-in and holds up in wet environments.
• Ground conductor is insulated, which simplifies bonding and splicing.
• Consistent insulation that strips cleanly and crimps well with common submersible splice kits.
• Good value compared to buying by the foot at retail, especially for full-depth installs.

Where it could be better

• Solid conductors are stiffer than stranded; tight bends and tricky pulls take more patience.
• The coil has some memory; give yourself space to lay it out before taping.
• Product variants exist (different gauges/conductor counts), so double-check you’re getting the exact configuration your pump requires; the naming across listings can be confusing.

Tips for success

• Do a voltage drop calculation for your actual depth and lateral run.
• Use high‑quality, adhesive‑lined heat‑shrink splices and a calibrated crimper.
• Tape at consistent intervals and offset splices to avoid a bulky section.
• Protect the top run in conduit, avoid sharp edges at the well cap and pitless, and deburr fittings.
• Megger the cable and assembly before the drop; it’s easier to fix problems above ground.

The bottom line

The Kalas 12/2 pump wire is a solid, no‑drama choice for two‑wire submersible installations at residential and light‑commercial depths. It’s built the way pump installers expect—solid copper, insulated ground, and a jacket that stands up to wet, abrasive conditions. It isn’t the most flexible option, and you should plan your bends and conduit accordingly, but once it’s taped to the drop pipe and in the hole, that stiffness becomes a non-issue.

I recommend this cable for anyone wiring a two‑wire submersible pump where 12 AWG is appropriate for the run and load. It delivers reliable electrical performance, installs cleanly with standard practices, and offers strong value if you need a full 300‑foot roll. If your setup demands tighter bends or a three‑wire pump, choose the stranded or higher‑conductor alternative—but for the common residential two‑wire well, this cable does exactly what it should and holds up over time.