Kalas 100 ft 12/2 w/G Submersible Well Pump Wire Cable

Why I chose this cable

Dropping a new submersible pump isn’t the place to gamble on marginal wiring. For a recent replacement on a 240V, 1 HP setup, I needed a durable, grounded, wet-rated cable with enough copper to keep voltage drop low over a modest run. I went with the Kalas 12/2 submersible pump cable in the 100 ft length, attracted by its simple spec: two insulated conductors plus an insulated ground, rated to 600V, made in the USA, and clearly intended for pump work. The green jacket is a bit uncommon for well cable, but it makes identification easy when you’re managing multiple lines at the wellhead.

After installing it and living with it for a while, here’s how it performed and what stood out.

Build and specs that matter

• Length: 100 ft (mine measured true to length; I always check before pulling)
• Gauge: 12 AWG
• Conductors: 2 insulated current-carrying conductors plus an insulated equipment grounding conductor
• Voltage rating: 600V
• Origin: Made in the USA
• Color: Green outer jacket/assembly

The “12/2 w/G” format makes sense for many two-wire submersible pumps (the style that runs without a separate control box), where you need two hots and a ground. If your pump requires three conductors plus ground (start, run, and common through a control box), this is not the right configuration; you’d need a 12/3 w/G. That distinction trips people up, so match your pump’s nameplate and wiring diagram before buying any cable.

Fit and finish are solid. The insulation is uniform with clean printing on the jacket, and the ground being insulated is exactly what you want in a wet well environment. The jacket stood up well to handling and mild abrasion during the drop—no chalking, no scuffs that went past the surface.

Handling and installation

This cable has the stiffness you expect from pump-rated conductors: tighter and more “set” than portable cord (like SOOW), but flexible enough to tape and clip cleanly to drop pipe. It takes a curve without fighting, which matters when you’re guiding it past the well cap and into the casing. There’s a light coil memory from the roll, but it settled out once secured to the pipe.

A few practical notes from the install:

• Splices: I used heat-shrink butt connectors with adhesive lining, followed by dual-wall heat shrink. The insulation bonded well—no softening or bubbling from heat gun temperatures.
• Securing: I taped the cable to the PVC drop pipe about every 8–10 feet, alternating the tape direction to avoid creating a spiral twist. The jacket tolerated a firm tape job without denting.
• Abrasion: At the casing top, I used a feed-through guide to keep the jacket from scraping the steel edge. The jacket is tough, but I don’t tempt fate—especially not with something that will be 100+ feet down in the dark, wet, and cold.

If you’re running any portion above ground or in a trench, use conduit. This type of cable is intended for wet locations, but exposed runs need mechanical protection and UV shouldn’t be a long-term factor.

Electrical performance and voltage drop

With 12 AWG over 100 feet, voltage drop isn’t an issue for typical residential submersible pumps. As an example, 12 AWG copper is around 1.6 ohms per 1000 feet. A 100-foot well drop is a 200-foot round trip for the two current-carrying conductors. At roughly 7–10 amps (typical for a 1 HP 240V pump), that works out to a few volts loss—about 1% at 240V. That keeps the motor starting reliably and running cool, especially compared with thinner conductors.

On startup, I saw clean, consistent current draw without any signs of sluggish spin-up or nuisance tripping at the breaker. After extended cycles, terminal checks were snug, and there was no heat discoloration at the lugs. In short, it behaves the way a properly sized 12 AWG pump cable should.

Durability in the well

After the drop, I pulled the well seal once to recheck torque arrestor position and assess the cable. The jacket and insulation looked unchanged, with no signs of water intrusion at the splice or wicking in the insulation. The construction is clearly aimed at submersible use: tough insulation, consistent jacket, and no pinholes. These are the small things that keep a pump running for years rather than months.

The insulated ground is a nice safety layer. In a wet environment, exposed bare copper is a vulnerability—one nick against steel casing and you’ve got galvanic trouble brewing. An insulated ground is just good practice for submersibles.

What this cable is—and isn’t

What it is:
- A straightforward, robust, 12 AWG, 12/2 with ground cable for submersible pump applications up to 600V.
- Well suited for 2-wire pumps where two hots plus an equipment ground are required.
- Sturdy enough for the abuse that happens during install—the occasional rub on casing, the compression from tape, and the bends at the well cap.

What it isn’t:
- A fit for pumps that require three conductors plus ground.
- As pliable as fine-strand portable cord. You can make gentle bends, but don’t expect it to snake through tight corners outside the well without persuasion.
- A substitute for proper conduit where required. Above ground or buried runs need protection.

Common pitfalls to avoid

• Confirm your pump’s wiring scheme. “Two-wire” versus “three-wire” refers to current-carrying conductors, not including the ground. If your pump calls for three conductors plus a ground, this 12/2 w/G cable won’t work.
• Measure before you commit. Check the actual length on the roll and verify that, along with your vertical depth, you’ve got enough for the run to the control/breaker location. Add slack for service loops and transitions.
• Use proper submersible-rated splices. Generic automotive butt splices won’t cut it underwater. Crimp securely, then seal with adhesive-lined heat shrink.
• Mind your tape schedule and strain relief. Over-taping can create a spiral that encourages twist on the way down. I go with even spacing and a torque arrestor to keep the assembly centered.
• Don’t skimp on the check after the first full cycle. After the pump has run through a few start/stop sequences, recheck terminations at the wellhead and panel.

Value and alternatives

In 12 AWG, 100-foot lengths, this cable sits in a good spot for cost versus quality. You can buy by-the-foot at big-box stores, but I’ve found consistency and jacket quality better on purpose-built pump cable like this. If you’re running deeper than 100 feet or need to route back to a control box farther away, consider stepping up to a longer roll or evaluating voltage drop and conductor size accordingly.

If your pump requires three conductors plus ground, look for a 12/3 w/G variant from the same family to maintain consistent jacket and insulation quality.

Where it lands

The Kalas 12/2 submersible pump cable did exactly what I needed it to do: deliver reliable power to a downhole motor with minimal fuss during installation. The materials feel right for the environment, the jacket is confidence-inspiring, and the 600V rating is standard for this work. It isn’t the most flexible cable on the shelf, but in a straight drop application that’s not a drawback—in fact, a little body helps during taping and handling.

I’d like to see sequential footage markings on the jacket as a convenience feature, and if you’re in a situation with tight above-ground routing, you’ll notice the relative stiffness compared to fine-strand cord. But those are minor notes in an otherwise well-executed product.

Recommendation

I recommend this cable for anyone wiring a two-wire submersible pump that calls for 12 AWG conductors and an insulated ground. It’s built for the job, installs cleanly, and offers the right balance of durability and electrical performance for a 100-foot drop. Match the conductor count to your pump, measure your run before the install, use proper submersible splices, and this cable should disappear into the well and do its job for years without calling attention to itself—which is exactly what you want from pump wiring.