DeWalt 10 in. Molding Bar

A compact pry bar built for trim work—and a bit more

I put the 10-inch molding bar to work on a hallway refresh and a bench teardown, and it quickly carved out a niche in my kit. It’s a compact, steel prying tool with an I‑beam shaft, a cat’s paw at one end, and an extra‑wide, flat prying face with a strike surface at the other. At just 10 inches long and around 0.4 pounds, it lives comfortably in a pouch and excels in tight quarters where a full-size wrecking bar is clumsy.

This is billed as a molding bar, and the headline feature is its extra‑wide head—about 2.2 inches across. In practice, that wider footprint spreads force across drywall or cabinet carcasses and noticeably reduces the “bruise” you often get when prying casing or baseboard off delicate surfaces. If you’ve ever lifted trim only to find a half-dozen divots to patch, that wider face is a welcome change.

Design and build

The I‑beam shaft is the right call here. It keeps the tool stiff without adding unnecessary weight, and the webbed profile gives your fingers natural indexing points when you’re choked up near the head. The powder‑coated finish arrived clean, and while it will scuff quickly under real use, it’s doing its job—surface rust hasn’t been an issue for me despite riding in a damp jobsite box for a week.

Both ends arrive sharp. The cat’s paw bites easily when you tap it with a hammer, and the flat, wedge-shaped end is thin enough at the very edge to start under small reveals once you’ve broken the paint and caulk. There’s a proper strike area on the wide face, which matters: this isn’t a tool you baby. You’ll tap it into joints and around fasteners frequently, and the steel holds up to that treatment.

Dimensions-wise, the spec sheet is accurate—10 inches long, roughly 2.8 inches tall at the claw, and 2.2 inches wide at the prying face. The proportions feel balanced in hand, and the small size is a boon overhead or inside cabinets.

In use: trim, casework, and light demo

On baseboard and door casing, the wider head earns its keep. After scoring the caulk, I slide a putty knife behind the molding, give the prying face a couple of taps, and the bar settles in without crushing the gypsum. A thin shim of scrap wood or a wide taping knife behind the bar makes the process nearly damage‑proof. The curvature of the claw gives a smooth roll as you lift; even a short 10‑inch bar can coax longer pieces free if the nails play nice.

That said, thickness matters. The very leading edge is thin, but the body behind it is a hair bulkier than dedicated ultra‑thin trim pullers. On fragile, old trim with tight reveals, I occasionally had to work more slowly—score the joint, start with a putty knife, then transition to the bar. If your day is nothing but carefully salvaging molding from century homes, you might prefer a thinner specialty puller.

The cat’s paw end is sharp and effective for digging under fastener heads or sinking just past them to grab. It shines with standard finish nails driven into studs and cabinetry. For tiny brads—think 18‑gauge and small headless pins—the slot isn’t as forgiving. You can pull them, but you’ll often lift the wood fibers before you catch the fastener cleanly. My workflow in those cases is to raise the brad slightly with the paw and then switch to end‑cutting pliers for extraction. For 15‑ and 16‑gauge finish nails, the bar pulls cleanly more often than not.

On the shop bench teardown, the 10-inch length was obviously leverage‑limited, but still surprisingly capable. It’s not a wrecking bar in the classic sense, yet it handled prying off slats, popping staples, and lifting trim strips without flinching. For stubborn framing or deck boards, I paired it with a longer bar; the small one got me started in tight corners, then the big iron finished the job.

Striking and control

The strike surface on the wide end is a practical detail. You can drive the wedge precisely where you need it, and even with repeated hammer blows I didn’t see mushrooming or deformation. Control is good: the extra width resists twisting off line, and the flat face lays tightly against workpieces, making it easier to stay parallel to a wall or stile as you pry.

One caution: the edges are sharp, which is part of why it works. It also means your knuckles and the workpiece need protection. Gloves are wise, and a sacrificial shim or wide putty knife under the head prevents tool marks on finished surfaces.

Ergonomics and carry

Compact tools earn their keep by being with you, not in the truck. This bar sits neatly in a back pocket of a pouch or tucks into a tool bag without snagging on everything. The I‑beam profile offers positive grip points, and the overall weight keeps fatigue low when you’re working overhead or on a ladder.

The flip side of the compact length is leverage. If you regularly pry large baseboards anchored with long nails into dense framing, you’ll want to keep a 15- to 24‑inch bar nearby. I treat the 10‑inch bar as the opener: it gets under the material and starts the lift cleanly; the longer bar finishes the heavy pulls.

Durability

After a few weeks of mixed use—trim removal, cabinet adjustments, and general site cleanup—the edges are still crisp, the strike surface is flat, and the shaft is straight. The powder coat shows the usual scratches, which is cosmetic. It’s a steel bar with no moving parts and a straightforward geometry; barring abuse with a sledge, it should last. The 1‑year limited warranty is there, but pry bars are consumables in many shops, and the real test is how it holds up to daily bumps. So far, so good.

What it is—and isn’t

What it is:
- A compact, stiff, wide‑footprint pry bar that reduces surface damage when removing trim and casework.
- A sharp cat’s paw that bites reliably for starting fasteners and lifting small materials.
- A handy companion to a larger wrecking bar for light demo.

What it isn’t:
- A razor‑thin salvage tool for the most delicate, tight‑gap trim removal.
- A dedicated brad or pin nail extractor; tiny fasteners often need pliers after you lift them.
- A replacement for a longer bar when high leverage is required.

Tips for best results

• Score paint and caulk thoroughly before prying to prevent tear‑out.
• Slide a wide putty knife or thin shim behind the head to protect drywall and finishes.
• Use the strike surface to “set” the wedge instead of forcing it with raw leverage.
• For 18‑gauge brads and smaller pins, lift slightly with the paw and switch to end cutters.
• Keep a longer bar nearby for heavy pulls; use the 10‑inch bar to get under and started.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt molding bar for remodelers, trim carpenters, and DIYers who need a compact, tough tool that minimizes wall damage during removal. Its wide prying face, sharp ends, and stiff I‑beam shaft make it effective in tight spaces and on finished surfaces, and it pairs well with a larger bar for heavier work. If your day is dominated by delicate salvage or pulling tiny brads cleanly, a thinner, purpose‑built trim puller and dedicated nail pliers may suit you better. For most general trim work and light demo, though, this 10‑inch bar strikes a smart balance of control, strength, and portability.