Bosch 12 in Bull Point SDS-max Hammer Steel

Why I reached for this bull point

Some jobs call for finesse; others just need a focused punch that turns stubborn material into manageable pieces. For the latter, I’ve been running this Bosch bull point with my SDS-max demolition hammer on concrete, block, and stretches of weathered asphalt. Over several weeks on site work and a few interior demo days, it proved itself as a straightforward, durable point that does exactly what a bull point should: concentrate impact energy and start fractures where you want them.

Design and fit

It’s a simple tool built for a specific task: a 12-inch bull point with an SDS-max shank. The 12-inch length hits a nice balance. It’s long enough to keep my hands clear and reach into footings and slab edges, but short enough that the tool doesn’t feel whippy or prone to binding. The SDS-max interface locks in securely; insertion and release are positive, with no slop in the chuck.

The tip is narrow—spec’d with a 0.5-inch contact area—which focuses blow energy into a tight point. That’s ideal for initiating cracks, popping aggregate, and working around embedded rock. The steel body has held up well to repeated hammering, with only minimal peening at the shank shoulder and predictable wear at the tip.

Setup and compatibility

I used it primarily on a 15-amp SDS-max demolition hammer and a heavier breaker for exterior work. It mates cleanly with any SDS-max tool I’ve tried, and you feel the difference compared to SDS-plus accessories: more mass, more impact, more control under heavy load. If you’re on SDS-plus, this isn’t for you. But if your work calls for serious chiseling or breaking, the SDS-max shank is the right spec.

A quick note on best practice: keep the shank lightly greased per your hammer’s manual, wipe it down daily, and rotate the point occasionally during breaks to distribute wear.

Performance on concrete

On 4-inch residential slabs and older stem walls, the bull point lets me control where the first fracture forms. I score the surface with a couple of light taps, then drive the point with a slight angle to propagate the crack. It’s efficient for breaking slabs into liftable sections without chasing cracks that wander off line. Where the aggregate is hard, the concentrated point helps shatter stones rather than skating over them.

I wouldn’t call it the fastest tool for removing volumes of material—that’s where a flat or spade chisel shines—but for starting breaks, working around rebar, and reducing thick sections, this point is the right choice.

Masonry and block

On CMU and brick, the point is controlled enough to pop individual units or start a channel without blowing out adjacent material. I found it particularly useful for opening a clean path when I’m planning to switch to a flat chisel to finish the trench. If you’re chasing a clean line for a conduit run, pre-score with a grinder first; the bull point will then follow the path with fewer chip-outs.

Asphalt and hardpan

Asphalt patches and compacted base are where a bull point earns its keep. The narrow tip bites immediately, breaking through oxidized surface layers without the skating you get from wider tools. On repair cuts, I could create a crisp relief path along a chalk line, then widen with a spade. In compacted gravel and hardpan, the point threads between stones and loosens the matrix quickly, which shortens the time you spend prying.

Control, feedback, and ergonomics

Good breaking isn’t just about raw force—it’s about directing energy. This point gives consistent feedback through the hammer. You can feel when the tip is about to punch through and adjust your angle to avoid over-penetration. The 12-inch length helps here; shorter points transmit harsher vibration to the operator, while longer ones can flex. This size felt neutral and predictable.

As always, vibration mitigation is largely up to the hammer’s design, but a straight, true-running point helps. I didn’t notice any wobble or bend developing over the test period, which keeps blows square and reduces operator fatigue.

Durability and wear

After multiple days of concrete and asphalt work, the tip rounded slightly, as expected. The steel holds shape better than bargain-bin points I’ve used; it mushrooms slowly and remains effective without frequent regrinding. If your workflow puts you into abrasive aggregate or you’re tackling long demo runs, consider keeping a second point on hand so you can rotate while one cools. The availability of single and multi-pack options is handy for that.

I avoided any heat discoloration, which suggests tempering is appropriate for impact work. Still, don’t overdrive a stuck tip—if it wedges, stop and work it free rather than trying to power through.

What it’s not

A bull point isn’t a cure-all. If you expect to peel tile mortar, scale concrete, or carve a clean trench edge, a flat chisel or spade is the better tool. The narrow tip can also skate on very smooth, dense concrete if you hammer at a low angle. A quick grinder score or a perpendicular starting tap solves that. And for deeper footings or thick structural members, a longer bit may keep you more comfortable, especially if you prefer to stand upright while working.

Comparisons and context

Against other SDS-max bull points from the big brands, this one lands right where it should: solid heat treat, consistent shank machining, and no premature bending. Some premium points advertise self-sharpening geometries or fluted ribs to manage dust; this model sticks to a straightforward profile. In practice, I didn’t miss the extras. A clean, simple point concentrates energy effectively and is easier to dress if you do regrind.

If you’re rough on consumables or working in extremely hard aggregate, those premium self-sharpening designs can maintain a sharper tip longer—but they also cost more, and for general demo I didn’t see a value gap that would pull me away from this one.

Tips for best results

• Start perpendicular to the surface to set the point, then drop to a shallow angle to drive the fracture.
• Work in short bursts; let the hammer do the work and reposition often to follow natural crack lines.
• Pre-score smooth concrete if precision matters; it reduces skating and chip-out.
• Keep the shank lightly greased and the chuck clean to minimize wear and vibration.
• Rotate between a bull point and a flat chisel to balance speed and control.

Value

As a single piece, it’s an easy add to any SDS-max kit. The steel quality and wear rate justify the price, and the 12-inch length is a versatile default for both interior and exterior work. If you have crews or long demo runs, the multi-pack option makes sense—less downtime, and you can standardize across hammers.

Bottom line and recommendation

I keep this bull point in my SDS-max kit because it does the fundamentals right: secure fit, focused impact, predictable control, and durable steel. It isn’t flashy and it doesn’t claim gimmicks, but it breaks concrete, block, and asphalt efficiently and helps me place fractures where they belong. When I need to remove volumes of material, I swap to a flat or spade; when I need to start and steer a break, I reach for this point.

I recommend this tool to anyone running an SDS-max hammer who needs a reliable, general-purpose bull point. It’s especially suited to slab breakup, footing reduction, asphalt repairs, and controlled demo around rebar or block cores. If your tasks are light-duty or you’re on SDS-plus equipment, it’s overkill. But for proper demolition and masonry work, this is the right format and, in my experience, a well-executed version of it.