DeWalt Oscillating Carbide Grout Removal Blade

Why I reached for this blade

Old houses have a way of testing every tool you own. I first picked up the DeWalt grout blade to clean out tile joints in a shower, but it really earned its keep during a round of plaster work in a 1920s home—squaring up wall openings, trimming around old junction boxes, and easing edges for patches. An oscillating multi-tool is perfect for those controlled, small-radius cuts where a saw would be too aggressive. This blade’s carbide-grit edge and half-moon profile promised just enough bite without the tendency to run away on me, and that’s exactly what I experienced.

Setup and fitment

The blade’s “universal” fitment is genuinely convenient. It locked onto my DeWalt 20V oscillating tool and a couple of older OIS-style tools from other brands without drama, no adapter needed. If you’re using a Starlock-only interface, this isn’t a Starlock blade, so plan accordingly. For everyone else, the open-back design seats quickly and holds firm.

At 3-5/8 inches across, the half-moon face is broad enough to span standard grout joints while still being easy to steer. The carbide edge is bonded in a continuous ring, which gives a consistent cutting feel around the arc. It’s a single blade in the package, so think of it as a consumable you’ll replace based on how much tile or plaster you tackle.

Grout removal: the main event

On ceramic wall tile with standard cementitious grout, the blade cuts predictably. Set your oscillating tool in the mid-range (I had the best control between settings 4–6), and let the grit do the work. Pressing harder doesn’t make it faster; it just builds heat and rounds off the abrasive sooner. The blade tracks straight in 1/8-inch joints, and the full arc helps keep you centered so you don’t chatter into tile edges.

A couple of observations from use:

• Dry cutting is doable, but heat builds quickly. When the edge gets hot, the grit glazes and performance drops.
• Lightly wetting the joint—just enough to keep dust down and cool the edge—improves both speed and blade life. I kept a spray bottle handy and misted ahead of the cut.
• Sanded grout, being more abrasive, wears the edge faster than unsanded grout. It’s still manageable; just temper your expectations on lifespan.
• Epoxy or very hard modified grouts are not this blade’s sweet spot. For those, a diamond-coated accessory is a better bet.

For bathroom refreshes, backsplashes, and the occasional floor repair, the cut quality is clean and easy to control. I was able to clear several linear feet of standard wall joints before noticing any significant slowdown, and a quick break to cool the edge restored a good portion of the bite. That said, if I were stripping grout all day, every day, I’d step up to a heavier-duty diamond option.

Beyond grout: plaster and light masonry

Where this blade surprised me was on plaster. The carbide edge skims plaster in a very controllable way, which is perfect for shaping openings for new electrical boxes or trimming around irregularities. I used the heel of the arc to define straight edges and the nose to nibble into corners. The oscillating action, unlike a rotary tool, doesn’t shower the room with chips; the cut is slower, but the control is excellent.

A few tips that helped:

• Score first. A shallow pass at a lower speed gives the edge a track to follow and reduces chipping.
• Watch for lath and nails. The grit will handle wood lath in small doses, but metal will dull the edge quickly.
• Keep dust in check. A small vac nozzle next to the blade or a damp rag nearby keeps the air breathable and your line visible.

On fiber cement board, the blade will make short, precise relief cuts and outlet openings, but it’s not a production cutter for long rips. For that, use a shear or a dedicated fiber-cement blade in a saw. Think of this as a surgical tool for notches, notches, and more notches.

Durability and lifespan

Carbide-grit blades are consumables by nature. With this one, life depends heavily on your technique and material. In my hands:

• Lightly dampened grout lines extended life noticeably compared to running dry.
• Short, controlled strokes at moderate speed kept the edge sharp longer than high-speed, heavy pressure.
• Plaster shaping barely fazed the edge; even after several wall openings, the blade still cut grout acceptably.

Used aggressively and dry on abrasive materials, it will slow down after a few feet. Used thoughtfully, you can finish typical homeowner tasks—an average shower, a backsplash, a couple of outlet cutouts—on a single blade. For pros clocking hours every week, plan on a rotation of blades or stepping up to diamond.

Control and access

The half-moon profile is a good generalist shape. It spans joints, rides steady on flat tile, and offers a predictable engagement point. The trade-off is corner access: the arc can’t reach perfectly into a 90-degree inside corner. I keep a narrow straight blade on hand to finish those last couple of millimeters if needed. The edge thickness (about 1/8 inch) behaves like a micro rasp—great for easing edges in plaster without the risk of a saw kerf suddenly diving too deep.

Vibration transfer is minimal if your tool is well-tuned, and the wide stance of the blade helps keep chatter at bay. I found it easy to maintain a perpendicular cut in grout lines and a controlled, shallow angle for surface skimming on plaster.

Dust, heat, and technique

Silica dust is no joke. A few habits made a big difference:

• Mist the cut lightly or use a vac with a HEPA filter.
• Run at moderate speed; high speed cooks the edge and makes more dust.
• Feather the cut. Two or three light passes beat one heavy plunge.
• Take breaks. Letting the blade cool between sections preserves the grit.

These aren’t just comfort tips—they directly affect how long the blade lasts and how cleanly it cuts.

Value and competitors

This blade sits at a sensible price point for a single accessory. You can certainly find cheaper imports, but in my experience those tend to shed grit fast and fit sloppily on the tool. You can also spend more on diamond-coated options that outlast carbide on tough grouts, at the cost of being more aggressive and pricier up front. For the kind of mixed duties many of us face—some grout, some plaster, the odd cement board notch—this strikes a practical balance between cost, control, and versatility.

Who it suits best

• Homeowners and DIYers tackling periodic grout work and wall repairs.
• Remodelers who want a controllable plaster shaper and a capable grout remover in one blade.
• Anyone prioritizing precision and low risk around finished tile edges.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Tile pros removing grout all day, especially in sanded or epoxy joints—diamond blades are a better investment for that workload.
• Users with Starlock-only tools, unless you have an adapter or alternate blade.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt grout blade for DIYers and remodelers who need a precise, controllable accessory for grout removal and small plaster tasks. It fits common oscillating tools without fuss, cuts cleanly in standard grout, and shines at shaping plaster openings where speed matters less than accuracy. With a light mist and moderate speed, the carbide edge lasts long enough to complete typical home projects on a single blade. If you’re a full-time tile setter or primarily battling hard, epoxy-based grouts, a diamond-coated alternative is the smarter long-term play. For the rest of us, this blade is a dependable, budget-friendly workhorse that earns its spot in the oscillating kit.