WXYCRUEYE Metal Glue, Heavy Duty Waterproof epoxy Adhesive for Metal Repair, Welding high Strength Oily Glue with Heat and Corrosion Resistance, Ideal Adhesive for Metals, Plastic, Ceramics, PVC and Fiberglass

What this epoxy is and where it fits

WXYCRUEYE’s heavy‑duty metal epoxy is a two‑part, 1:1 mix adhesive designed for repairs on metal, plastics (including PVC), fiberglass, and ceramics. It comes as a 1.76‑ounce kit with a push rod, scraper, and a syringe for metering. On paper, it’s quick to use—about five minutes of working time, a 24‑hour cure—and once cured it’s billed as waterproof, sandable, drillable, and paintable, with a claimed strength up to 4680 PSI and a wide operating temperature window (−65 °C to 287 °C). In practice, it behaves like a thick, non‑sagging paste that fills gaps and rebuilds missing material while bonding dissimilar substrates.

I’ve been using it for patching and bonding jobs that would otherwise require welding, plastic solvent cement, or a trip to the machine shop. It’s not a universal replacement for welds, but it does cover a lot of ground efficiently if you prep well and understand its limits.

Setup and application

The kit includes just enough to get started without hunting for extra tools. The syringe helps meter equal parts from the two tubes; the push rod and scraper are basic but usable. I still prefer a small digital scale or marked mixing board for critical ratios, but the included tools will get most users there.

Application is straightforward:
- Clean and abrade: I degreased with acetone or isopropyl alcohol, then scuffed the surfaces with 80‑120 grit. Even though this epoxy tolerates oily environments better than typical formulations, thorough degreasing significantly improves bond strength—especially on aluminum and stainless.
- Mix 1:1 by volume: I folded the parts together for about a minute until the color was uniform. It’s a thick mix with a creamy, clay‑like feel and minimal slump.
- Place and shape: With a working time around five minutes at room temperature, you don’t have much margin. I laid it on generously for gap filling and used the scraper to fair edges. It starts to gel quickly, so batch small.
- Cure: It reaches a handling set in ~15 minutes, but I left structural repairs undisturbed for the full 24 hours. After cure, it machines like a dense plastic—easy to sand and drill, and it takes primer and paint well. It cures a medium gray.

Cleanup before cure is easy with alcohol or acetone. After cure, it’s strictly mechanical removal.

Performance on metals

I used it to rebuild and secure a corroded aluminum bracket and to fill two elongated bolt holes in mild steel. On both jobs:
- Adhesion was strong with proper prep. The aluminum bracket needed aggressive abrasion to cut through oxide; once bonded, the epoxy held under clamp loads and light hammer tapping without chipping.
- It’s excellent as a hole filler. I overfilled, cured, then re‑drilled the holes to size. The epoxy held threads for a light-duty machine screw when I tapped it, though for high‑load threading I recommend installing a metal insert or using the epoxy purely as a bushing around a through‑bolt.

Where it’s less ideal: crack repair on thin, flexing aluminum. Epoxies are strong in compression and good in shear, but they don’t bridge moving cracks well. A test patch on a cracked aluminum tube held until the tube flexed under load; the cured bead telegraphed the crack line and developed a hairline fracture along the same path. Stitch drilling the crack ends and adding a backing patch improved results, but for dynamic, high‑vibration areas, a welded repair or mechanical reinforcement is more reliable.

Plastics, fiberglass, and ceramics

On a PVC sprinkler manifold, the epoxy stopped a slow leak at a threaded adapter by forming a fillet around the joint. After cure, it resisted water exposure without softening. I would not rely on it as the sole structural bond for high‑pressure lines, but as a reinforcement or external seal it performed well.

For fiberglass and carbon fiber, adhesion was very good provided the surface was abraded to remove gloss. I patched a chipped motorcycle fairing (ABS) and a fiberglass canoe seat. The paste consistency made fairing easy, and sanding to a feathered edge was predictable. On glossy, low‑energy plastics (e.g., polyethylene), expect poor adhesion without a specialty primer.

Ceramic repairs (a cracked shop mug used as a parts cup) were neat. The bond is waterproof and heat tolerant, though I wouldn’t use it for food‑contact items.

Heat, water, and chemical resistance

The published temperature range is broad. I used a cured sample as a clamp‑on patch near, but not directly on, an exhaust mid‑pipe. It tolerated the heat cycles without softening or discoloration. I wouldn’t place it at the manifold or catalytic converter where temperatures can exceed the rated ceiling, but downstream repairs, muffler surface patches, and heat‑exposed brackets are fair game.

Immersion tests in water and occasional oil exposure didn’t cause swelling or debonding. For continuous fuel immersion, I’d choose a fuel‑specific epoxy; for incidental contact and engine‑bay grime, this epoxy shrugged it off.

Strength and durability

Quantifying PSI claims in a small shop is difficult, but practical tests were encouraging:
- Lap shear on scuffed steel coupons held through vise‑bending until the metal yielded elsewhere.
- A rebuilt corner on an aluminum housing stayed intact under light impact.
- Drilled and countersunk holes didn’t chip, and edges stayed sharp after sanding.

The material cures to a hard, slightly brittle mass, as most high‑fill epoxies do. It excels in compression and as a gap filler but is less forgiving under peel forces and repeated flexing. Designing your repair to load the bond in shear/compression makes a big difference.

Working time and finish

The five‑minute working time is accurate at 70–75 °F. In warmer conditions, it shortens. If you need more time to sculpt an aesthetic repair, mix smaller batches or chill the components slightly. The cured gray is neutral and easy to paint; with primer, color coats adhered smoothly.

After full cure, it machines nicely. I’ve drilled through it, tapped light threads, and sanded to a paint‑ready surface. It throws a fine dust—wear a mask.

What could be better

• Very fast set: Great for field fixes, less ideal for complex assemblies. A slower companion formulation would be welcome.
• Metering: The included syringe works, but a dual‑plunger or pre‑metered packets would be more foolproof for beginners.
• Aluminum crack bridging: Like most epoxies, it doesn’t love flex. Plan reinforcements or mechanical backup where parts see cyclic loads.
• Color options: Gray is versatile, but black or translucent options would reduce finishing work on visible plastics.

Tips for best results

• Overdo surface prep: Degrease, abrade, then degrease again. Pay special attention to aluminum oxide.
• Mechanically “lock” the patch: Drill stop‑holes at crack ends, add perforations to backing plates, or create shallow dovetails for the epoxy to key into.
• Control thickness: For structural patches, aim for a 1–3 mm bond line; thicker masses cure harder but can trap heat and add brittleness.
• Respect cure time: It may feel solid in minutes; resist the urge to load it before the full 24‑hour cure.
• Test for heat: Keep exhaust‑proximate repairs downstream of the hottest zones.

Who it’s for

DIYers and pros who need a fast, waterproof, high‑temperature epoxy for metal and mixed‑material repairs will get good mileage here. It shines for:
- Rebuilding worn or corroded edges
- Filling holes and re‑drilling
- External tank, radiator, and pipe patches
- Fairing and cosmetic work on fiberglass and plastics
- Bracket, fixture, and shop tool fixes where welding isn’t practical

It’s less suitable for thin, flexible metals under high cyclic loads, or for repairs inside the hottest parts of exhaust systems.

Recommendation

I recommend this epoxy as a capable, cost‑effective repair staple for shops and garages. It mixes easily, cures quickly, bonds well across a range of materials, and finishes cleanly with sanding, drilling, and paint. The fast set demands a bit of discipline and small batches, and like any epoxy, it’s not a magic fix for flexing cracks in thin aluminum. But with proper prep and good repair design, it delivers strong, water‑ and heat‑resistant bonds that hold up. If you need a dependable, gap‑filling epoxy for metal and mixed‑material repairs—and you’re willing to spend a few extra minutes on surface prep—this one deserves a spot in the toolkit.