GORILLA 2 Part Epoxy, Clear Epoxy, 0.85 Ounce Syringe (Pack of 2) - 5 Minute Set, Incredibly Strong Bonding

A clear, fast-setting epoxy that earns a spot in the toolbox

I keep a handful of quick-fix adhesives on hand, and Gorilla’s two-part clear epoxy has steadily become the one I reach for most when I need a strong bond, a clean look, and a short turnaround. It’s a straightforward, dual-barrel syringe system: equal parts resin and hardener get dispensed, mixed, and applied. The pack includes two 0.85-ounce syringes, which is a practical size for household and light shop work—you’ll use it up before it ages out.

What the packaging gets right (and where it frustrates)

The syringe format is convenient and, importantly, keeps the components separate so they don’t cure in the tube. I like that the cap is reusable; if you wipe the tip clean and seal it properly, you can come back weeks later without finding an amber brick.

Two caveats from my time with it:
- The plungers can be stiff, especially on a new syringe. That’s manageable on a bench, but less fun if you’re trying to glue something overhead. Applying steady, even pressure is important to maintain a true 1:1 mix; if one side creeps ahead, the bond can weaken.
- Store it upright with the tip up and the cap on. If left on its side in a warm space, some seepage can happen, and the next time you open it you’ll be cleaning sticky threads.

Application: quick working time, forgiving consistency

This is a five-minute set epoxy, which in real terms means you have about 3–5 minutes of workable open time at room temperature before it starts to gel. That’s enough to position parts and make minor adjustments, but you don’t want to stage a complex assembly without a dry run.

Mixing is easy: equal volumes, 30–45 seconds of thorough blending. The viscosity is on the medium side—thick enough to stay where you put it on most joints, thin enough to self-level for a tidy fillet. It genuinely dries clear. On visible repairs (think a chip in a translucent plastic housing or a crack in a decorative piece), the seam all but disappears if you don’t trap bubbles. Stir slowly and fold rather than whip the mix, and you’ll be rewarded with a glassy cure.

As with any epoxy, surface prep is the difference between “pretty strong” and “rock solid.” I had best results when I degreased first (isopropyl alcohol or acetone), then lightly abraded smooth surfaces with 120–220 grit to give the epoxy some tooth.

Real-world bonding performance

I’ve put this epoxy through a mix of typical household and garage scenarios:

• Wood repairs: Re-gluing a split bed slat and a loose chair rung went smoothly. The epoxy wicked into the crack, filled minor gaps, and the squeeze-out sanded flush the next day. The clear finish makes cleanup less fussy around finished edges.
• Metal and plastic: Reattaching a small piece of interior trim to a metal bracket held up after heat cycling and vibration. For plastic types like ABS and polycarbonate, the bond was reliable. Unsurprisingly, it struggled on low-surface-energy plastics (polypropylene, polyethylene) without special primer; that’s a limitation of most epoxies.
• Magnets to wood: Embedding rare-earth magnets in shallow pockets is a great fit for this formula. It fills voids, cures hard, and won’t creep once it starts to set.
• Sporting goods: I used it for a quick fix on a rod butt that had loosened; overnight cure and it was ready for the water. For club work, it’s fine for basic assembly where you want a clear line, but if you need extended open time or higher heat resistance, a 24-hour epoxy designed for shafts is a better pick.

Water exposure hasn’t been an issue in moderate conditions—moisture in the air, occasional splashes, even a rinse. I wouldn’t use it for underwater repairs or continuous submersion. It’s water resistant, not marine-rated.

In terms of strength, once cured overnight, the bonds feel impressively rigid. Shear and peel resistance are inline with a quality five-minute epoxy: excellent for small structural fixes and fixtures, not a substitute for a mechanical fastener in high-load or high-heat environments.

Working time, clamp time, and cleanup

• Open time: ~3–5 minutes at 70°F
• Handling strength: around 30–60 minutes
• Full cure: give it 24 hours for maximum strength

Clamping helps. Even a strip of painter’s tape or a spring clamp makes a noticeable difference in alignment and bond line quality. Cleanup is easiest if you wipe squeeze-out with a solvent-dampened rag before it gels. After cure, it sands and files cleanly; I’ve painted over it without issues.

Odor is present but not harsh—more “warm resin” than solvent punch. Still, I work with a window open or a fan on.

Gap filling and vertical surfaces

The formula is marketed as gap-filling, and that checks out within reason. It bridges small voids and uneven surfaces well and doesn’t slump immediately on vertical joints. If you’re trying to fill a deep, wide cavity, it will settle some before gel. For those situations, either apply in lifts or pick a thicker, paste-style epoxy.

Heat and glass considerations

Heat is the Achilles’ heel of most fast-cure epoxies. Inside a hot car on a summer day, temperatures at the windshield can outstrip what a five-minute formula tolerates long-term. I’ve had success on interior bits away from glass, but I’d be cautious relying on it for high-heat, high-sunload bonds.

Glass bonding is a mixed bag. Epoxy can adhere to glass, but smooth, tempered panes under shear load (like table supports) are notoriously tricky. If you must bond to glass, surface prep is crucial: degrease, lightly abrade a masked area, and consider a specialty glass adhesive for critical or heavily loaded joints.

Where it lands among competitors

Compared to other five-minute epoxies, Gorilla’s clear finish stands out. Many fast-cure options amber slightly; this one stays convincingly clear. Open time and cure speed are typical for the category. If you need more working time for alignment-heavy assemblies, a 30-minute or 1-hour epoxy will treat you better and usually offers higher heat resistance. If the repair is purely cosmetic with tiny bond areas, a high-quality cyanoacrylate (super glue) might be faster, but CA won’t fill gaps and is brittle.

Tips for best results

• Prep matters: clean, dry, and lightly abrade bonding surfaces.
• Prime tricky plastics: PP/PE/PTFE won’t bond well without a special primer.
• Mix thoroughly: equal parts for 30–45 seconds, scraping the sides of your mixing surface.
• Avoid bubbles: stir slowly and press the mix into the joint rather than slathering.
• Clamp if possible: even gentle pressure improves bond quality.
• Mind the clock: lay out parts and dry-fit before you mix.
• Store smart: wipe the nozzle, cap tightly, and keep the syringe upright and cool.

The tradeoffs

A few minor knocks after extended use:
- The dispenser takes a firm push. Users with limited hand strength might prefer a twin-syringe with a larger plunger or a separate 1:1 squeeze bottle system.
- Not all-in-one for vertical fills. It’s gap-filling but not a non-sag paste; plan for lift applications.
- Heat ceiling is modest. For bonds near engines, glass, or dark exterior parts in direct sun, step up to a slower, higher-temperature epoxy.

Bottom line

Gorilla’s clear two-part epoxy hits a very practical sweet spot: fast, clean, and reliably strong for the kinds of repairs most of us actually do. It’s the right choice when you want an invisible bond line, you’re working with mixed materials, and you don’t have all afternoon to wait for a cure. It won’t solve every adhesive problem—especially high-heat, underwater, or glass-heavy applications—but within its lane, it performs consistently and predictably.

Recommendation: I recommend this epoxy for general household, hobby, and light automotive use where a clear, quick-setting bond is desirable. It’s easy to keep on hand, cures fast without turning amber, fills small gaps well, and holds up to everyday moisture. If you need extended open time or higher temperature resistance, choose a slower-curing epoxy; otherwise, this one earns its keep.