Krazy Fix Fast Weld, 2 Part Clear Epoxy Glue, Permanent Bond Sets in 30 Seconds, Strong Like Epoxy Fast Like Super Glue, Low Odor Clear Adhesive Liquid, 0.35 oz Syringe

Why I reached for this adhesive

Some repairs don’t give you the luxury of time. A broken latch, a ceramic figurine, a small bracket on a panel—these are “fix it now” moments where clamping, mixing cups, and hour-long waits are nonstarters. That’s where Krazy’s Fastweld earned a spot in my kit. It promises epoxy-like strength with the speed of super glue, delivered from a dual-barrel syringe with disposable mixing nozzles. After a few weeks of real-world fixes, I’ve got a clear sense of where it shines and where it asks for compromises.

What it is

Fastweld is a two-part, clear adhesive in a 0.35 oz dual-barrel syringe. The included mixing nozzles combine the parts as you dispense, so there’s no separate cup or stir stick required. It’s billed to reach handling strength in about 30 seconds, needs no clamping in most cases, and cures to a sandable, paintable, slightly flexible bond, rated up to 3,500 PSI. It also runs surprisingly low on odor, which I appreciated for indoor fixes.

Setup and application

The hardware design is straightforward: snap on a mixing tip, point the nozzle at the joint, and press the plunger. The adhesive has a medium viscosity that sits where you put it—thick enough not to flood a joint, but fluid enough to wet surfaces and wick into hairline cracks. On a vertical ceramic repair, it stayed put instead of drooling down the piece, which saved cleanup.

A couple of usage notes that improved my results:

• Purge a pea-sized amount into scrap first to ensure both barrels are flowing evenly and the mix is uniform.
• Dry-fit your parts, tape off squeeze-out areas, and keep alignment aids (tape, a quick clamp, or a hand press) ready. The working window is short.
• Apply light, steady pressure on the plunger. A hard squeeze can cause a sudden surge of adhesive.

The “no clamp required” claim held up for small, well-fitting joints. For anything slightly springy or under tension (think plastic latches), a quick clamp for a few minutes helped keep alignment perfect while the bond grabbed.

Performance across materials

I tried Fastweld on a handful of common workshop materials:

• Ceramic to ceramic: Excellent. I reattached a cleanly snapped figurine arm. After 30–45 seconds of finger pressure, it stayed put; I set it aside for an hour and the seam was strong and practically invisible. Sanding and touch-up paint finished the job.
• ABS plastic to aluminum: Very good. With a scuffed surface and isopropyl wipe-down, the bond held through moderate prying a day later. The slight flexibility in the cured adhesive is an asset here—it resists brittle failures that typical super glues can suffer.
• Plastic to plastic (interior car latch repair): Good, with prep. Scuffing both sides and degreasing mattered. The joint grabbed in under a minute and has survived repeated actuations.
• Polypropylene/Polyethylene: Not ideal. Like most adhesives in this category, bonding to low-surface-energy plastics (PP/PE) was unreliable without a dedicated primer. If you’re fixing storage bins, garden sprayers, or similar, expect mixed results.

Fastweld fills small gaps better than a typical cyanoacrylate and doesn’t turn chalky after cure. For gaps up to about 1–2 mm, it does fine; beyond that, a slower, bulk-filling epoxy is a better choice.

Speed and cure

In my shop at roughly 70°F, I consistently reached handling strength in 30–60 seconds, depending on joint thickness and the amount of adhesive. That’s quick enough to keep a fingertip pressed and move on without rigging clamps. I still avoid loading a joint for at least 30–60 minutes; full mechanical properties typically develop later, and patience pays off in long-term durability.

Once cured, Fastweld sands cleanly and takes paint well. The cured bead is clear, which helps with invisible repairs on light materials and ceramics.

Odor and cleanup

Compared to most two-part adhesives, the odor is mild. It doesn’t have the eye-watering fumes of some cyanoacrylates, and it’s easier to use indoors with basic ventilation. Cleanup is similarly painless: because the mixing happens inside the disposable tip, your hands and workbench stay cleaner than with cup-and-stick mixing.

One caveat: the mixing tip is single-use. The adhesive cures inside the nozzle, locking it solid. You can remove the tip, reseal the barrels with the supplied caps, and store the syringe—but you’ll need a fresh tip next time. If you run out of tips, you can mix equal parts by hand on a scrap surface with a toothpick, but you lose the precision dispensing that makes this system shine.

Durability testing

I did a simple shearing test on an aluminum-to-ABS bond after 24 hours: a firm, two-hand twisting force deformed the plastic panel before the adhesive line gave up. On the ceramic repair, a mild drop test from desk height survived intact. On the car latch, the bond has held after dozens of uses. These are anecdotal, but they line up with what I expect from a toughened, fast-cure two-part adhesive: strong, slightly forgiving, and more impact-resistant than brittle super glue.

I wouldn’t choose this for high-heat environments or constant water submersion without specific ratings from the manufacturer. For splash-prone or outdoor use, it’s fine once fully cured; for submerged or food-contact applications, I steer to products explicitly rated for that duty.

Limitations and quirks

• Working time is short. You get maybe 20–30 seconds of real positioning time. Prepping and dry-fitting are essential.
• Tip economy. The included tips don’t match the total adhesive volume; you’ll likely run out of nozzles before you run out of glue. I’d love to see more tips in the package or easy access to spares.
• Waste in the tip. Because the adhesive cures inside the used nozzle, there’s some inevitable waste. For tiny jobs, that raises the cost per repair.
• Not a solution for all plastics. PP and PE remain tough customers without a primer.
• Small volume. At 0.35 oz, this is for repairs and small builds, not laminations or large fills.

Best uses

• Fast, clean fixes on ceramics, composites, and most rigid plastics
• Small metal-to-plastic assemblies where a bit of flex helps longevity
• Gap-filling joints that need to be sanded and painted
• On-site repairs where clamps and long cure times aren’t practical

Value

Price per ounce, Fastweld is more expensive than a standard five-minute epoxy. What you’re paying for is speed, precision dispensing, and low mess. If you only occasionally need a strong, nearly instant bond, it’s excellent value. If you’re building up large fillets or laminating panels, a slower, bulk epoxy is more economical.

Tips for best results

• Clean and lightly scuff bonding surfaces; degrease with isopropyl alcohol or acetone.
• Purge the tip before applying to the workpiece.
• Mask edges with painter’s tape for cleaner lines.
• Keep a quick clamp or tape ready for springy parts, even if clamping isn’t strictly needed.
• Store the syringe upright with caps on; purge a small amount next session to ensure even flow.
• For PP/PE, consider a plastic primer or a different adhesive system.

Recommendation

I recommend Fastweld for anyone who needs epoxy-like strength without the epoxy routine. Its real advantage is speed and cleanliness: 30-second handling strength, precise application, and a clear, sandable cure that finishes well. The trade-offs—short working time, single-use tips, and lukewarm performance on low-energy plastics—are manageable with a little planning. For quick, reliable repairs on ceramics, metals, and most rigid plastics, it’s a dependable, low-odor go-to that earns its spot in a home shop or field kit.