PYQTH 40 Pcs 8/32 Inch Threaded Rod Sets Include 20 Pcs M4 Screw Rod with 20 Pcs Metal Hex Nuts Stainless Steel Threads Studs Rods Fully Threaded Hex Nuts for Beaded Garden Stake Rods - 20 Set

A versatile stainless kit for crafts and light-duty fixes

A simple length of stainless threaded rod can be more versatile than it looks. The PYQTH threaded rod set leans into that idea with 20 fully threaded 12-inch rods and a matching 20-piece pack of hex nuts. I put the kit to work on a few bead-and-garden projects, plus some around-the-shop tasks, to see if it’s as useful as it appears on paper.

What’s in the kit

• 20 stainless steel threaded rods, 12 inches long
• 20 stainless steel hex nuts sized to match the rods
• Finish: plain stainless (silver)

That’s a true “starter” quantity for craft runs or small batches of fixtures. Do note the one-to-one rod-to-nut count; if you intend to lock beads at both ends or use washers and jam nuts, you’ll want additional hardware.

Fit and finish

Out of the box, the rods were straight and the threads consistent along the entire length. I could spin the included nuts on by hand from either end without catching. That matters for craft projects where you’re working close to glass or acrylic beads; snaggy threads will chip fragile pieces and slow the build.

Ends arrive squarely cut but not chamfered. If you plan to cap the rod with a nut or decorative acorn nut, you’ll get the best results by dressing the end with a file after cutting to length (more on cutting below). I didn’t encounter any plating flakes—these are solid stainless, not zinc-plated steel—so there’s no mess or residue when threading through light-colored beads.

Thread standard: know what you’re buying

The listing language suggests both M4 and 8-32. In practice, the rods I received are M4 x 0.7 metric thread, and the included nuts match that spec. My 8-32 nuts would not run on; M4 hardware did, smoothly. The across-flats size on the nuts is 7 mm, which is typical for M4.

This isn’t a deal-breaker—M4 is very common—but it does mean you should source any extra nuts, washers, or decorative finials in M4, not 8-32. If you mix standards, you’ll either cross-thread parts or they simply won’t fit.

Material and corrosion resistance

These are stainless, likely a 300-series alloy. I left one rod sitting in damp potting soil for a couple of weeks and saw no rusting or discoloration. That’s a far better outcome than zinc-plated all-thread, which tends to oxidize and shed white corrosion in the same setting. For coastal environments or highly acidic soils, you may eventually see tea staining, but for indoor planters, patios, and most outdoor garden use, these should hold up well.

One practical note: stainless fasteners can gall (bind) when dry-fitted under load. If you’re torqueing the nuts more than finger-tight, a dab of light oil or a PTFE thread paste prevents seizing and makes future adjustments painless.

In use: beaded garden stakes and plant wands

For bead stakes and plant wands, diameter matters. At roughly 4 mm outside diameter, these rods work well with pony beads, many faceted acrylics, larger-hole glass beads, and spacer tubes. They’re not suitable for tiny seed beads or anything under a 4 mm hole without drilling the bead.

A few observations from building a batch:

• The rods have enough stiffness to support 12 inches of beads without wobble in typical indoor planters. In taller outdoor pots, I preferred cutting rods to 8–10 inches to reduce leverage from wind or curious pets.
• A single hex nut per rod will hold a stack in a pinch, but a cleaner, safer finish is an acorn nut (M4) at the top, optionally with a small washer to protect the last bead. Plan to buy those separately.
• If you’re threading heavy glass or stone, consider adding silicone grommets or rubber O-rings as “brakes” between beads. The threads give them plenty to grip and keep the stack from settling over time.

All told, assembling a set of plant wands was quick, and the stainless makes cleanup easy if you’re working with soil or wet planters.

In use: general DIY and shop tasks

Outside of crafts, M4 all-thread is handy for:

• Temporary fixtures and small jigs where a headless fastener is useful
• Hanging lightweight items with couplers or threaded eyelets
• Spacers and standoffs in electronics enclosures
• Repairing broken machine screws when head style isn’t critical

The rods cut cleanly with a hacksaw and a 32 TPI blade or a cutoff wheel. After cutting, run a nut past the cut and back off to reform the crest; a quick chamfer with a file helps nuts start easily. Because the entire length is threaded, it’s easy to dial in precise stand-off dimensions without a lathe—two nuts and a washer create an adjustable stop that’s repeatable.

Strength-wise, M4 stainless is plenty for light-duty clamps and fixtures. I wouldn’t design anything load-bearing around it, but for prototyping and shop aids it’s a staple.

Cutting and finishing tips

If you’re new to working with all-thread, a few small steps make a big difference:

• Wrap painters’ tape around the cut line. It reduces burrs and keeps the finish cleaner.
• Before cutting, thread a nut past the cut line. After you cut and deburr, backing the nut off chases the first thread.
• Use a fine file to break the edge. A slight chamfer makes starting nuts much easier.
• Avoid bolt cutters. They tend to pinch and deform the threads, which you then have to repair.
• For stainless-on-stainless assemblies, use a drop of oil to prevent galling.

These steps turn a raw cut into a factory-feeling end in under a minute.

What could be better

• Clarity on thread standard. Labeling the kit clearly as M4 x 0.7 would prevent confusion and mismatched add-ons.
• More nuts in the box. One nut per rod is tight for many use cases. Two per rod (or a mix of hex and acorn nuts) would make the kit more complete for craft projects.
• Optional end caps. Simple plastic or stainless end caps would protect surfaces and beads and make the finished stakes friendlier to handle.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth planning around when you order.

Value and who it’s for

The set hits a useful balance: enough material to batch out 15–20 projects, without committing to a contractor-sized bundle of threaded rod. If you’re making plant wands for gifts or markets, or you keep a small hardware drawer for weekend builds, this is a sensible quantity. If you only need a couple of rods, buying by-the-piece at a local hardware store may be cheaper overall—especially once you factor in extra nuts and finishing hardware.

Alternatives to consider

• If you need a true imperial thread for existing hardware, look for a #8-32 stainless all-thread kit specifically labeled as such.
• For outdoor, high-salt environments, 316 stainless offers better corrosion resistance than common 304/A2.
• If you primarily want bead wands, pre-cut 8–10 inch lengths with included acorn nuts can save time and yield a cleaner finish out of the box.

The bottom line

The PYQTH threaded rod set is a straightforward, well-made batch of M4 stainless all-thread with matching nuts. The threads are clean, the rods are straight, and they hold up to damp, dirty environments that ruin plated hardware. For beaded garden stakes and light-duty shop tasks, they do exactly what they should, with the caveat that you’ll likely want extra nuts and decorative caps for a polished finish—and you must stick to M4 hardware.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for crafters and DIYers who want reliable, corrosion-resistant M4 threaded rod in manageable quantities. It’s a practical, flexible addition to a small workshop or craft bench, especially if you’re willing to source a few extra finishing pieces to complete your projects.