TEDDOO 15 City Street Light DIY LED Lighting Kit (10 in 1 USB Power Supply) Small Particle Building Block Lamp Compatible with Lego Building Blocks 2039 11062

What it is

The TEDDOO LED streetlight kit is a 15-piece lighting set designed for brick-built displays. Each lamp is a classic minifigure-scale street post topped with a clear “bulb” element, and everything ties back to two USB-powered hub boards—one 10-port and one 7-port—so you can light all 15 posts from two standard USB ports. The wires are ultra-thin (meant to tuck between plates), the hub cable is long enough to reach a power source off-layout, and the posts use a standard 2x2 footprint that drops right into most city roads, sidewalks, and parks.

I used the kit across a modular street scene and a small holiday village display. Here’s how it went.

Design, build, and what’s in the box

• 15 lamp posts, white column with white LEDs
• One 10-port USB hub board and one 7-port hub board
• Two USB cables for power (hub to power source)
• Rough lengths: ~60 cm from USB to hub; ~40 cm from hub to each lamp

The posts look the part at minifigure scale: proportionally right for sidewalks, not oversized, and with a tidy base that fits the typical 2x2 footprint most road plates accommodate. The “bulb” is essentially a clear minifigure head element. It’s removable, which is a small but meaningful design choice—you can swap it with a transparent yellow head or a 1x1 round plate to warm the color or tint the light without filters.

The wires are as thin as you’ll see in hobby lighting kits (think hair-thin). That’s the whole point: they disappear between studs and under plates without raising the surface. It also means you have to treat them like model-railroad wire: careful bends, no sharp kinks, and avoid pulling by the wire when you can grab the connector.

Build quality is better than bargain-bin kits I’ve tried. The posts are straight, the finish is clean, and the LED placement inside the head is consistent. That said, LED bins vary slightly, and I did notice tiny differences in brightness and tone between a couple of lamps when set side by side. Nothing jarring, but visible if you’re looking for perfect uniformity.

Setup and installation

Plan first, place second. The hubs are the brains of the system, and where you hide them dictates how far you can spread your lamps.

• Each lamp cable is about 40 cm. That’s generous for a city block or two, but you’ll need to think in “clusters” radiating from each hub.
• The hub’s 60 cm USB lead lets you stash your power bank or USB charger off to the side or under a table.

My process:
1. Dry-fit the lamps where I wanted pools of light—corners, crosswalks, bench areas.
2. Identified two hidden cavities for the hub boards: one under a removable sidewalk section, another inside a large building base.
3. Routed cables in the natural gaps between studs, then covered with tiles/plates. The wires are thin enough to avoid any noticeable lift.
4. Plugged each lamp into the hub with tweezers—connectors are small and keyed, so they only go in one way. They do require a firm push.

Tip: Label the hub ports (1–10, 1–7) as you go. It makes troubleshooting and re-routing much easier. Also test every lamp on the bench before embedding, then again once it’s in place.

Performance and light quality

Brightness is the immediate surprise. These are brighter than most third-party micro-LEDs, throwing a crisp pool of neutral-to-cool white light. That’s excellent for city scenes, signs, and sidewalks where you want definition. If you’re aiming for a cozier vibe—say, a winter village—two tweaks solve it:

• Swap the clear “bulb” for a transparent yellow minifigure head or a 1x1 round plate to warm the tone.
• Add a USB inline dimmer (5V) between your power source and the hub. The kit doesn’t include one, but a basic USB dimmer works fine and gives you a range from soft glow to full brightness.

Uniformity across the set is good, though not laboratory-grade. Two of my posts ran a hair brighter than the rest. In a staggered pattern across a street that actually looked realistic—cities rarely have perfectly matched lamps—but if you’re lining a long boulevard and want absolute consistency, be prepared to shuffle posts around.

No flicker or noise at 5V. Power draw is low enough to run from a basic dual-port USB charger or two ports on a power bank.

Cable management and durability

The thin wires are this kit’s superpower and its Achilles’ heel. They vanish into builds, but they’re easy to nick if you force a plate down on a wire or yank a cable to adjust a lamp after you’ve tiled over it.

What worked for me:
- Pre-score a shallow channel by temporarily placing and removing a plate where the wire will sit. Then set the wire and press the plate down gently.
- Add a small loop of slack at the base of each post for strain relief before you route the wire away.
- Avoid hard 90-degree bends. Gentle curves reduce stress on the insulation.

I didn’t have any failures during install, but I can see how a hurried rebuild would snap a conductor. Treat them like modeling wire, not like USB cords.

Compatibility and scale

The posts drop neatly into a 2x2 footprint and blend well with official city-scale sets. The height reads correctly next to minifigures and looks great on modular sidewalks, train platforms, and park paths. Because they’re “LEGO-native” in footprint, you can build risers under them to handle uneven terrain or to create multi-level scenes. I also used four posts in a non-LEGO winter village; they didn’t look out of place thanks to the simple, clean column design.

Limitations you should know about

• Two hubs, two power sources: You get a 10-port and a 7-port board. They’re separate, so you’ll use two USB ports. No daisy-chaining.
• Connector fiddliness: The micro-connectors are tiny. Installation is fine at a desk but awkward in tight cavities; tweezers help.
• Cable length defines your layout: 40 cm per lamp is solid, but if you’re spacing streetlights far apart across a large city, plan hub locations carefully. You can’t extend these easily without soldering and heat-shrink.
• Bright by default: Great for modern city scenes, arguably too harsh for cozy displays unless you dim or warm them.

Value

For 15 posts plus two hubs, the cost-per-lamp is compelling. You avoid disposable batteries, you get consistent 5V power, and the look is cleaner than improvised micro-LEDs stuffed into custom posts. If you’ve priced out buying LEDs, resistors, wire, and spending an evening soldering your own, this kit saves a lot of time.

Practical tips

• Use a dual-port USB wall charger or power bank to feed both hubs from a single outlet.
• Consider an inline USB dimmer; it adds flexibility without modifying the kit.
• Color-tune by swapping the clear bulb for transparent yellow, orange, or smoke elements.
• Stage and test everything before you tile over wires. Photograph your wire routes—future-you will thank present-you.
• Mount hubs with a small square of double-sided tape inside a building or under a removable plate for easy access.

Who this is for

• LEGO city builders who want a fast, clean way to light streets, parks, and stations.
• Seasonal village makers who want mains/USB convenience instead of coin cells.
• Displayers working within a baseplate or two, not sprawling convention layouts.

If you’re building a massive city with long runs and centralized power, you may prefer a system with chainable hubs or custom wiring to extend reach.

Recommendation

I recommend the TEDDOO streetlight kit for most brick-based city and village displays. It’s easy to integrate, bright enough to make a scene come alive, and thoughtfully packaged with hubs that keep wiring neat. The trade-offs—fragile ultrathin wires, small connectors, and the need for two USB ports—are manageable with a bit of planning. If you want an out-of-the-box solution that looks native to minifigure scale and hides its wiring convincingly, this kit delivers strong results for the time and money you’ll spend.