TOOVEM A FAMILY OF MANUFACTURERS SDS Max Chisel, 6 Inch Wide Floor Scraper Tile Removal Scraping Chisel Bits, Steel Flat Shovel Bit Tool for Removing Floor, Concrete Mortar Thinset with SDS Max Shank Rotary Hammer Drills

Why I picked up this SDS‑Max floor scraper

I’ve removed more thinset and stubborn adhesives than I care to admit, and I’ve learned the hard way that a narrow chisel turns a weekend job into a week-long slog. That’s why I reached for a 6-inch wide SDS‑Max floor scraper for my latest round of tile and linoleum demo. I wanted faster coverage, fewer passes, and a blade that could stay under the material without gouging the slab.

Setup and compatibility

This is an SDS‑Max shank bit, full stop. If your rotary hammer is SDS‑Plus, this won’t fit—there’s no adapter that makes sense for the loads a 6-inch scraper puts on a tool. I ran it on a mid-size SDS‑Max rotary hammer in hammer-only mode. No rotation, no chiseling-with-rotation gimmicks; just pure impact.

The bit is 6 inches wide and roughly 15 inches long. That length provides enough stand-off so I’m not crouched directly over the blast zone, and it gives decent leverage to feather the angle of attack. It slots into the chuck solidly with the typical SDS‑Max detents—it’s a snug, wobble-free fit.

Build quality and design

The construction feels purpose-built for abuse. The alloy steel has enough mass behind the blade that it doesn’t chatter like lighter scrapers. The neck transitions into the blade with a gradual taper, which spreads impact forces across the edge rather than focusing them at one point. The blade is a classic flat shovel profile with square shoulders, which helps get under material and ride along the slab without tipping.

After several sessions over concrete, backer board, and a section of plywood subfloor, the cutting edge showed only minor burnishing and a few small dings—normal for a scraper this wide. It’s not a razor, and it shouldn’t be; the slightly blunt geometry actually helps it stay under thinset without diving into the slab.

Performance on tile and thinset

On a bathroom where porcelain tile was set over a moderately thick thinset bed, the scraper did what I hoped: it got under the tile faces, popped many whole pieces, then skimmed down the remaining thinset. The trick was to keep the blade at a shallow angle—about 20 degrees—and let the hammer do the lifting. I was able to clear roughly three times the area per pass compared to a 1-inch chisel. Where thinset was extra stubborn, I switched to a narrower scaler for a few minutes and came back with the wide blade to finish.

You won’t entirely avoid ridges or patches; that’s just the nature of demolition. But the finish it leaves is flatter than narrower chisels because the wide edge bridges over small voids and prevents divots. It made subsequent patching and self-leveling much simpler.

Performance on linoleum, vinyl, and adhesives

If your target is sheet goods or carpet glue, this scraper really shines. The wide face gets under the adhesive film and peels it back in broad sheets. For older vinyl and linoleum, it helps to score or lift a corner first; once the blade is under, you can keep up a steady rhythm. I like to work in overlapping swaths—think mowing a lawn—to keep the edge riding on clean substrate rather than gummy residue.

On particularly tenacious mastic, a quick pass with a heat gun or a citrus-based softener cut the effort dramatically. With or without softener, keeping the blade shallow and the tool speed moderate prevented smearing.

Glued wood flooring and subfloor work

Glued-down engineered wood is a mixed bag for any scraper. This one handled the job, but the wide blade demands patience. I found it best to first break the surface layer with a circular saw set just shy of the subfloor, then use the scraper to shear the adhesive. The square corners let me work close to walls and under door casings, though—unsurprisingly for a 6-inch blade—you’ll still need a narrower chisel for true tight spots and inside corners.

Ergonomics and control

A wide scraper can punish you if you fight it. This one is manageable because the blade tracks predictably when kept flat, and the 15-inch length keeps me more upright than short chisels do. That said, gravity and physics still apply: you’ll feel the mass. The best results came with a relaxed stance and incremental progress. I appreciated that I didn’t have to lean excessively; small adjustments at the handle translated to reliable changes at the blade.

Vibration was present but not harsh, likely thanks to the bit’s mass and the square, stable cutting edge. Good gloves and ear/eye protection are a must. Dust control is straightforward—thinset and mortar tend to break cleanly—but adhesives can make a mess. A vac and scraper-length passes keep things tidy.

Durability and maintenance

After multiple rooms’ worth of demo, the edge remained usable. If you treat the blade like a pry bar, you’ll mushroom the edge or twist the neck—don’t do that. Keep the angle shallow, avoid side-loading, and let the hammer work. If needed, you can dress the edge with a flap disc or bench grinder to remove burrs; avoid thinning it to a knife edge. A quick wipe and a light coat of oil after wet cleanups kept surface rust at bay.

The SDS‑Max shank showed no peening or slop. The retention grooves stayed sharp and secure in the chuck. I’d expect a long service life for anyone who uses it as a scaler, not a lever.

Limitations

• Requires an SDS‑Max rotary hammer. If you only own SDS‑Plus, this isn’t an option.
• At 6 inches wide, it won’t reach into the tightest corners or around obstructions. Keep a narrow chisel handy.
• On very hard, thick mortar beds or lippage-prone stone, a narrower bit can sometimes break the surface more efficiently before switching back to this wide scraper.
• The wide blade can skate if you start too steep or too fast; technique matters.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re worth planning around.

Tips for best results

• Use hammer-only mode. No rotation.
• Keep a shallow angle (15–30 degrees) so the blade rides under material rather than digging into the substrate.
• Moderate the impact rate. Too fast and the blade chatters; medium speed keeps it planted.
• Work in overlapping passes to avoid ridges and missed strips.
• For mastics, consider a brief heat or softener pre-treatment to reduce smearing.
• Pair with a narrower chisel for edges, registers, and toilet flanges.
• Maintain the edge with occasional light dressing; don’t over-sharpen.

Value

There’s something to be said for renting a walk-behind scraper for big commercial jobs, but for residential rooms, bathrooms, kitchens, and hallways, a 6-inch SDS‑Max scraper is a sweet spot. It dramatically outpaces narrow chisels and spares your back by keeping you more upright. Because it’s a single, solid piece with no moving parts, ongoing costs are minimal beyond occasional edge touch-ups.

Final thoughts and recommendation

This SDS‑Max floor scraper did exactly what I needed: it sped up tile and thinset removal, peeled adhesives without excessive gouging, and held up to repeated impacts without deforming. The blade width provides meaningful coverage while still being controllable, and the shank engages the tool securely. It won’t replace a narrower chisel for tight corners or the first break on very hard mortar, but as the primary workhorse for flooring demo, it’s efficient and predictable.

I recommend this tool to anyone with an SDS‑Max rotary hammer tackling tile, thinset, linoleum, carpet glue, or glued-down engineered wood. It saves time compared to narrow chisels, leaves a flatter substrate for patching, and offers solid durability for repeated use. If you’re SDS‑Plus only, this isn’t for you; otherwise, it’s a practical upgrade that pays for itself in the first room.