MAXXHAUL 80439 Aluminum Ramp Top Kit

Why I reached for a ramp kit instead of a full ramp

I’ve owned a handful of folding aluminum ramps over the years, and while they’re convenient, they’re not always the most stable or cost-effective option for occasional loading. This simple aluminum ramp kit takes a different approach: you supply the lumber, and the aluminum ends turn common 2x8s into sturdy, custom-length ramps. That flexibility—pick your board, pick your length—is what drew me to it. After several weekends of loading a garden tractor, a snow blower, and a mid-weight motorcycle, plus converting a pair of boards into a permanent shed ramp, I came away impressed by how capable and straightforward this kit is.

Setup and installation

Out of the box, I found two extruded aluminum ramp ends, mounting hardware, and a pair of adhesive foam pads meant to protect the tailgate or threshold. The aluminum is thick enough to inspire confidence but not so heavy that it defeats the “simple” ethos. The top surface has a coarse, non-skid texture, and the underside is profiled to sit over the lip of a tailgate or sill.

Installation is basic: cut your boards to length, seat the aluminum end over the board, mark and drill, then bolt through. The pre-punched holes on my kit were evenly spaced (5 inches on center), and the included bolts were the right length for standard 2x stock. I recommend pre-drilling your lumber and backing the board with scrap to avoid tearout. Go slow when tightening; crushing wood fibers around the holes reduces long-term hold.

A couple of practical notes from the bench:
- I found small burrs around the countersinks and edges of the aluminum. Ten minutes with a file and deburring tool cleaned everything up nicely.
- The adhesive pads do help protect a painted tailgate, but if you’re picky about scratches, lay a towel or rubber mat first. The pads are thin and more of a scuff guard than a cushion.
- Use quality lumber. I don’t trust knotted, cupped 2x8s for ramps. Pick straight-grained, minimal-knot boards, and consider Southern Yellow Pine or better. If you’re frequently loading heavy equipment, step up to 2x10s.

Choosing board size and length

The kit is designed for 2x8s, and those fit perfectly. I also tested 2x10s; the aluminum ends left a small overhang on each side, but functionally it worked fine and provided a wider target and reduced flex under heavier loads. For loading into a pickup with a tailgate around 32 inches high, 10-foot boards created a comfortable approach angle. Four- or six-foot boards will work for ATVs and mowers if your tailgate is lower, but expect a steeper climb. As a rule, a longer board means less drama: easier clutch modulation, less scraping, and less need for a run-up.

For a shed threshold, I cut two 4-foot 2x8s, set the aluminum ends at the shed lip, and lagged the ground end into a sleeper. That made a solid, semi-permanent ramp that still allows removal for yard work.

Performance under load

Across a few weekends, here’s what I rolled up these ramps:
- A ~425 lb garden tractor (weight split across both ramps)
- A ~200 lb snow blower
- A ~380 lb motorcycle
- A loaded wheelbarrow and moving dolly (because yard work never really ends)

With 10-foot 2x8s, flex was present but predictable—no springiness that made me nervous. Switching to 2x10s reduced deflection and made motorcycle loading feel more relaxed. The non-skid on the aluminum ends worked well; traction on the wood itself depends on your lumber and conditions. In wet grass or dew, bare pine can get slick. A strip of outdoor-grade anti-skid tape near each end made a noticeable difference, and it’s a cheap upgrade.

The ramp lip sat cleanly on my tailgate and didn’t wander under load, but I still recommend securing the ramps to the truck. I drilled a pair of eye-bolts near the top of each board so I could ratchet-strap them to the bumper. That eliminates the rare but real possibility of the ramps kicking out mid-load. For dual-boarding (two ramps side by side), a quick strap near the ground ends keeps the spacing consistent.

Build quality and durability

Structurally, the extruded aluminum feels up to the task. It’s simple, stout, and not fussy. The finish isn’t boutique—expect a couple of minor dings out of the box and sharp edges that benefit from a pass with a file. After a few uses, I saw no deformation at the lip or bolt holes, which is what matters. The hardware is serviceable, though if you’re in a corrosive environment or plan to leave the ramps outside, upgrading to stainless bolts and washers is worthwhile.

Do note: your ramps are only as strong as your boards. The aluminum ends transfer load well, but undersized or knotty lumber can still fail. If you’re loading heavier machines or frequently bridging a big height difference, invest in better boards and go longer.

Everyday usability

The biggest trade-off with a kit like this is the format. A pair of 10-foot boards are bulky and heavy compared to a folding aluminum ramp, and they’re not as neat to store. On the flip side, they’re very stable underfoot, customizable in length, and far less expensive. For occasional home and yard use, that’s a compelling balance. For contractors who need to load daily and value compact storage, a purpose-built folding ramp might still be the better choice.

Using the kit as a shed threshold solution is a great application. It’s cheaper than building a full ramp, and the aluminum ends create a secure interface to the sill that doesn’t chew up the wood over time. Outdoors, pressure-treated lumber holds up, but factor in traction: add cleats, outdoor grip tape, or rubber strips where needed.

Safety tips that made a difference

• Choose longer boards whenever practical. Shallower angles make everything safer and easier.
• Strap the ramps to the vehicle. An inexpensive ratchet strap is cheap insurance.
• Keep the ramps parallel and secured together for motorcycle loading.
• Add traction to the wood. Anti-skid tape or shallow cleats where your tires land help in wet conditions.
• Touch up the aluminum edges. A quick deburr prevents cuts and protects cargo.

Pros

• Simple, sturdy, and adaptable—choose your board width and length
• Non-skid aluminum surface and protective tailgate pads included
• Straightforward installation with included hardware
• Stable feel under load; inspires confidence compared to some light folding ramps
• Cost-effective way to build dedicated ramps or a shed threshold

Cons

• Edges and countersinks benefited from deburring; finish is more “workmanlike” than refined
• Bulky to transport and store with long boards
• Traction on the lumber is up to you; plan on adding grip if you load in wet conditions
• Protective pads are modest—use a towel or mat if you care about paint

Who this kit suits best

Homeowners and DIYers who occasionally load mowers, snow blowers, and motorcycles into a pickup or over a threshold will get the most out of this kit. It’s also a smart, budget-friendly way to build a solid shed ramp. If you’re hauling daily and need something compact, spring-loaded, and quick to deploy, look elsewhere. But if you value stability, flexibility, and cost control, this approach works.

Final take

I recommend this ramp kit. It’s a well-thought-out, durable way to turn off-the-shelf lumber into stable, confidence-inspiring ramps. The ability to choose board length means you can dial in the approach angle for your setup—something most off-the-shelf ramps don’t allow. The non-skid top, protective pads, and included hardware make the process quick, and once installed, the ramps feel secure under real-world loads. You’ll want to spend a few minutes deburring the aluminum, pick good boards, and add a strap or two for safety, but those are minor asks for the stability and value you get in return.