MAXXHAUL 50946 Aluminum Ramp Top Kit - Designed for 2"x8" Boards for Car, Trucks, Trailer, Driveway, Shed, Lawn Mower

What it is and why I reached for it

Sometimes the simplest solution is the best one. I needed a quick, stowable way to bridge modest height differences—loading a push mower into a shed, rolling a snowblower into a trailer, getting a hand truck up a curb. Instead of buying full-length folding ramps, I tested the MAXXHAUL ramp kit that turns ordinary 2x8s into functional ramps. It’s two aluminum “ramp tops” with a non-skid surface, protective tailgate pads, and mounting hardware. You bring the lumber, cut to whatever length suits your setup, and bolt it together.

A kit like this trades the convenience of an all-in-one ramp for flexibility, affordability, and easy storage. That’s the appeal—and what I evaluated.

Design and build

The ramp tops are formed from thick-gauge aluminum with a slightly textured, non-skid surface and a lip that hooks over a landing (tailgate, threshold, trailer deck, shed floor). The aluminum is naturally corrosion resistant and doesn’t add much weight to the boards; a pair of 2x8s will weigh more than the metal ends themselves. The silver finish is utilitarian and appropriate for shop use.

Small but appreciated details:

• Protective pads on the underside of the hook to keep from scratching painted or finished surfaces. They also add a bit of friction to help the ramps stay put.
• A broad mounting flange with multiple holes so you can distribute fasteners across the end grain of your 2x8s.
• Slight side flanges that help stiffen the top plate and guide tires.

Overall fit and finish are better than I expected at this price. Edges were clean with no burrs, the holes lined up, and the surface texture provides real traction underfoot and under tires.

Installation and setup

Setup is straightforward. Here’s the process that worked best for me:

1. Cut lumber to length. I used kiln-dried 2x8x10 boards, cut in half for a pair of 5-foot ramps. For a gentler angle, 8-foot boards are nicer if you have the storage.
2. Slightly bevel the board ends (optional) to remove splinters and improve the fit under the ramp flange.
3. Clamp the ramp top to the board, aligning the edges.
4. Drill pilot holes through the pre-punched holes in the aluminum and into the wood. Predrilling helps prevent splitting near the end grain.
5. Bolt or screw the ramp top to the board using the included hardware. I added washers on the wood side to spread the load.

The instruction sheet is minimal. The hardware worked, but if your ramps will live outdoors or see heavy use, swapping for stainless or zinc hardware with locking nuts is a worthwhile upgrade. I also ran a bead of exterior wood sealer on the cut ends of the boards to prolong their life.

A practical note: nominal 2x8s measure 1-1/2" x 7-1/4". The channel fit those dimensions snugly without fuss.

In use

With the ramps assembled, I put them to work in a few common scenarios:

• Loading a 21" mower into a shed: The non-skid texture and the aluminum lip’s protective pads inspired confidence. The ramps settled securely onto the shed threshold, and I didn’t need to wrestle the mower or risk scraping the sill.
• Rolling a snowblower into a trailer: Shorter ramps create a steeper approach, but traction remained good. I added a ratchet strap from the ramp lip to the trailer tie-down ring as a fail-safe—good practice on any ramp.
• Hand truck up a low retaining wall: The boards proved stiff enough for a couple hundred pounds of load when centered. The side flanges helped keep wheels aligned, reducing the tendency to wander at the edge.

The non-skid surface is the star. It gives boot soles and small tires a better bite than smooth aluminum or bare wood, especially when the surface is dusty or damp. The protective pads under the hook spared my painted tailgate from the usual dings. And because the boards are replaceable, you’re not married to a single setup—switching to longer lumber for a lower slope or replacing a board after years of abuse is easy and inexpensive.

Noise and vibration were minimal; no rattling or flexing beyond what’s expected from the wood. The ramp tops didn’t creep or walk under load in my testing, provided the lip had a solid landing and the weight was centered on the boards.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not for full vehicles. Despite the universal branding, a pair of 2x8s is not a substitute for purpose-built automotive ramps. Keep these for mowers, ATVs, small garden tractors, bikes, and hand trucks. If you need to load a UTV or car, get rated ramps with an explicit load capacity.
• Instructions are sparse. You’ll be fine if you’re handy, but a clearer diagram with fastener specs would help first-time installers.
• Your lumber is the weakest link. Pressure-treated 2x8s are durable, but they’re heavier and can be a bit wetter; select straight, knot-free boards, and inspect them periodically for splits or decay. Sealing the ends adds longevity.
• Angle matters. Short ramps can make for steeper, sketchier climbs. When possible, go longer than you think you need. As a rule of thumb, aim for a gentle approach; if you’re lifting to a truck bed height, 8-foot boards feel dramatically safer than 5-foot ones.

Safety tips that made a difference

• Use a strap: Connect the ramp to your landing point (tailgate, trailer D-ring) so the ramp can’t kick out.
• Keep it clean: Sweep off sand, wet leaves, and snow—traction is good, but nothing is magic on debris.
• Center the load: Avoid riding one ramp heavily while the other is lightly loaded; keep wheels centered on each board.
• Footwear matters: The textured surface helps, but work boots with good tread are still your best friend.

Durability

Aluminum doesn’t rust, and after a few weeks of outdoor use—including a couple of rainy days—the ramp tops show no corrosion or discoloration. The pads under the hook are intact and haven’t peeled. The boards will be what ages first; that’s expected and acceptable, and replacement is simple.

Hardware stayed tight, but I did retorque after the first day of use and added lock washers. That’s a good habit on anything that sees vibration.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners who occasionally need to move yard equipment up a step, into a shed, or into a trailer.
• DIYers who prefer customizing ramp length to their space and storage constraints.
• Small contractors and landscapers who want a rugged, inexpensive way to bridge curbs or low thresholds for dollies and wheelbarrows.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Anyone loading cars, trucks, or heavy UTVs—buy purpose-built, rated ramps with safety straps and higher traction surfaces.
• Users who want a single-piece folding ramp with integrated hinges and handles for frequent transport.

What I’d change

• Include clearer instructions with bolt size callouts and a simple ramp length-to-rise guidance chart.
• Offer an option with stainless hardware out of the box.
• Pre-applied edge caps for the lumber would be a nice touch to protect the wood end grain.

The bottom line

The MAXXHAUL ramp kit does exactly what it promises: turn common 2x8s into practical, secure ramps with a non-skid surface and tailgate protection. Installation is simple, the materials are appropriate for outdoor use, and the flexibility of choosing your own board length is a real advantage. It’s not a replacement for heavy-duty, rated vehicle ramps—and it shouldn’t be treated like one—but for lawn equipment, ATVs, hand trucks, and everyday loading tasks, it’s a smart, budget-friendly solution.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for homeowners and light-duty users who want an adaptable, corrosion-resistant ramp solution and are comfortable selecting and maintaining their own lumber. It offers solid traction, protects your landing surfaces, and keeps costs down while letting you tailor the ramp length to your needs. For heavier vehicles or frequent professional use where load ratings and integrated safety features are essential, step up to a dedicated, rated ramp system.