Bosch Daredevil Standard Spade Bit

A fast-feeding spade bit with teeth—literally and figuratively

I’ve used plenty of basic spade bits over the years, and most of them rely on your arm to push them through the cut. The Daredevil spade bit takes a different approach. Its full-cone threaded tip pulls the bit into the work, and it changes the whole feel of the cut. With the 1/4-inch size I tested (6 inches overall, roughly 3 inches of cutting length), that self-feed behavior made routine drilling in wood faster and—when handled correctly—cleaner than what I’m used to from a flat paddle.

That said, it’s not a fire-and-forget accessory. The self-feed tip and aggressive geometry demand a bit of technique and the right setup. If you give it those, the bit delivers speed and surprisingly good hole quality for a spade.

Build and design

The standout feature is the full-cone threaded tip. Instead of a simple point, you get a screw that grabs and advances the bit with minimal pressure. Spurs at the outer edges scribe a clean circle, while small reamer-like facets behind the spurs shave the sidewall to reduce fuzzing. The paddle is contoured, not flat, which helps channel chips up and out of the hole.

The shank is 1/4-inch hex with a power groove. In practice, that means better engagement in standard chucks and very secure lock-up in quick-change holders. I used it primarily in a compact 18V drill/driver and swapped it in and out with other hex tools without drama.

Specs-wise, the 1/4-inch bit is compact and predictable: about 6 inches overall, with around 3 inches of effective flute. It’s sold as singles and in various multipacks depending on where you buy.

Performance: speed, torque, and control

In softwoods like pine and SPF studs, the bit takes off quickly. Start at low speed, let the screw tip bite, and the Daredevil does the rest. It’s markedly faster than a plain spade bit of the same diameter and requires little feed pressure. On a mid-torque drill set to low gear, it pulled cleanly through 2x stock with minimal stalling.

The self-feed is a double-edged sword, though. If you run too fast or aren’t braced, the bit can yank itself into the work harder than you intended. In knotty softwood or wide earlywood bands, that surge can split a fragile workpiece near the edge. On cordless drills with limited torque, the bit can also stall abruptly if chips pack in or you let the speed bog. The cure is simple: use low gear, feather the trigger, and keep a firm two-handed grip. When the bit starts to load up, back it out a half-turn to clear chips, then continue.

In harder woods like maple and oak, the thread still advances but at a more reasonable pace. The controllability improves and the cut stays straight, provided you let the tip do its job and don’t muscle it. With hardwoods, I found the sweet spot was low speed with steady trigger pressure—fast enough to toss chips, slow enough not to skate.

On a drill press, the self-feed is more complicated. The threaded tip wants to take over the feed rate, which can work against the controlled quill feed you expect from a press. With small bits like this 1/4-inch, it’s manageable as long as the work is firmly clamped and backed; still, for press work where feed control matters, a brad-point or Forstner is a better match.

Hole quality and breakout

Spade bits are not famous for pretty holes, but this one bucked that reputation more than I expected. The outer spurs score the perimeter well, and the reamer edges smooth the sidewalls as the paddle passes. Entry holes are crisp on clean-faced plywood and most hardwoods. Exit holes are where things usually fall apart with spade bits; the Daredevil’s geometry helps, but physics is physics. With a backer board in place, exit breakout was minimal and predictable. Without a backer, expect some tear-out in plywood and softwood—less than a flat spade, not nearly as clean as a brad-point.

For joinery-grade holes, use a different bit. For utility boring—clearance holes, pilot paths for longer fasteners, or routing small cables through studs—the quality is more than acceptable.

Chip evacuation and heat

The contoured paddle is the quiet hero here. It clears chips better than a flat paddle, especially in softwood where fluffy chips can bog a small-diameter bit. In deeper holes approaching the 3-inch flute length, you’ll still want to peck drill—advance a bit, back out to clear, repeat. Doing so kept heat low and edges sharp through multiple dozen holes in my tests.

Shank and drive engagement

The hex shank with the power groove grips securely. I experienced zero slippage in a standard three-jaw chuck and in a quick-change holder. That’s particularly important with a self-feeding bit; if the shank spun in the chuck, you’d burnish the jaws quickly. No issues there.

Durability

After a day of on-and-off drilling through construction softwood, some hardwood scrap, and plywood, the cutting edges still felt keen and the screw tip remained crisp. Like any woodworking bit, a hidden nail will be its nemesis. Avoid side loading—spade bits aren’t meant to lever or ream aggressively off-axis, and the narrow web of a 1/4-inch paddle can twist if abused. Treated well, edge life seems solid.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

• Excels at: Fast through-holes in studs and plates, clearance holes for bolts, general utility boring where speed matters and a clean-enough hole is acceptable.
• Works fine for: Small-diameter holes in hardwoods when you can back the cut with scrap and control the feed.
• Not ideal for: Precision cabinetry, holes near fragile edges, or drill-press operations where you want precise feed control. Also not a great match for very underpowered drills; the self-feed can stall them.

Tips for best results

• Use low gear and moderate speed. Let the threaded tip pull; don’t force it.
• Grip the drill with two hands. A side handle helps on larger drills.
• Back up the exit side with scrap to prevent breakout.
• Peck-drill deeper holes. Clear chips frequently to avoid stalls and heat.
• For holes near edges or in brittle stock, pre-score the entry circle with a knife, start slowly, and consider drilling halfway from each side to control breakout.
• On a drill press, clamp the work firmly and keep a tight leash on the quill. If you need precise feed control, switch to a brad-point or Forstner.

Comparisons and alternatives

Compared to a basic flat spade bit, the Daredevil is noticeably faster and leaves cleaner edges, thanks to its spurs, reamer facets, and chip-friendly paddle. Versus an auger bit, it’s more compact and more tolerant of knotty sections at small diameters, but it won’t track as cleanly in deep holes. Brad-point bits still own fine joinery and clean entry/exit, but they’re slower and more expensive at larger sizes. For a 1/4-inch general-purpose wood hole, this spade bit is a practical in-between: fast like a spade, neater than most spades, and inexpensive to keep on hand.

Value

As a single bit, it’s affordable and effective; as a multi-pack, it’s an easy restock for jobsite kits. The 1/4-inch, 6-inch format is a staple size, and the hex shank makes it convenient in quick-change setups. The time you save on repetitive boring is the real value, provided you match it with a suitable drill and proper technique.

The bottom line

I recommend the Daredevil spade bit for anyone who wants spade-bit speed with better-than-usual hole quality. It rewards a controlled approach and a properly powered drill. If you’re doing delicate cabinetry, working right at an edge, or need precise feed control on the drill press, pick a brad-point or Forstner instead. For everyday wood drilling—especially in framing and general shop tasks—the self-feeding tip, chip-clearing paddle, and secure hex shank make this a smart, time-saving choice.