DeWalt 6 in 10 TPI Straight Back Bi-Metal Reciprocating Saw Blade (2 pack)

A week with a lean, do‑it‑all recip blade

I reached for the DeWalt 6-inch 10 TPI bi‑metal blade on a weekend demo job and kept it in the saw for most of the week. It’s a straightforward, general‑purpose blade with a few design choices that push it toward fast, aggressive cutting in wood and nail‑embedded material, with enough versatility to handle light metals when needed. Here’s how it actually behaved on the job.

Setup, fit, and first impressions

The universal shank locked into my saw securely with no slop. The straight‑back profile gives the blade a clean, predictable line of sight, and at 6 inches it’s the right length for most framing cuts, decking, and door jambs without feeling whippy. The bi‑metal body has a touch of flex—normal for this class—and the anti‑stick coating is slick enough to shed pitch and sap better than uncoated blades.

This blade leans aggressive out of the gate. The 6° hook angle wants to bite, and the raker tooth profile keeps the cut moving without packing chips. If you’re used to finer‑tooth blades, this one will feel eager; keep a light hand to let the teeth work.

Cutting wood and nail‑embedded lumber

In 2x spruce and pine framing, the blade is fast. With the saw’s orbital action on, the 10 TPI teeth take sizable chips and track straight without much steering. I did several plunge cuts into subfloor and wall sheathing; the tip starts cleanly without skating as long as you roll the shoe in and commit. The raker tooth geometry does help clear chips—cuts felt less “boggy” than some similarly pitched blades I’ve used.

The real test was nail‑embedded lumber. I purposely cut through a half‑dozen framing nails and some old screws buried in a ledger. The blade lost a touch of bite after the second nail but kept cutting at a respectable pace through all of them. Tooth damage was modest—some micro‑rounding on the leading edges rather than snapped teeth. That’s the bi‑metal advantage; it blunts instead of breaking. I got through a small deck removal (joists and nail‑heavy fascia) on one blade before I felt speed fall off enough to swap it. For demo work, that’s a perfectly acceptable lifespan.

Pitch buildup on resinous lumber was minimal. The anti‑stick coating earned its keep; a quick swipe with a rag was all it needed between cuts.

Metals: where it works and where it doesn’t

As a general‑purpose blade, it needs to handle at least light metal, and it does—within reason. On EMT conduit and copper pipe, keeping the stroke speed moderate and the shoe planted, the blade cut cleanly without hitching. The 10 TPI tooth count isn’t the classic choice for thin metals, but with controlled feed it still produces a continuous curl and avoids tooth snagging.

On 1/8-inch mild steel angle, the blade gets it done, though slower and with notably more vibration than a finer 14–18 TPI blade. You’ll want to drop your saw speed a notch, use a little cutting fluid if you have it, and avoid forcing the cut. That keeps the teeth cooler and extends life.

Push into thicker stock—say, threaded rod above 3/8 or heavy wall pipe—and the limitations show. The blade will chatter and heat up quickly, and tooth wear accelerates. This is not a heavy‑metal demolition blade; if that’s your primary use, a carbide‑tooth metal blade or a higher TPI bi‑metal option will serve you better.

Control, feel, and cut quality

• Speed: Excellent in wood and composites; fair in light metal; poor in thick steel.
• Tracking: Straight back profile helps keep the line true. In flush cuts against flat surfaces, it stays manageable without deflecting excessively.
• Vibration: In wood, controlled; in metal, more noticeable. Using the saw’s orbital action only in wood helps.
• Finish: Recip saws aren’t about pretty cuts, but tear‑out in wood was on par with other 10 TPI blades—rough, but consistent.

One small technique note: Because the hook angle is aggressive, it pays to start each cut with low trigger pressure, seat the shoe, and then ramp up. That avoids the initial “grab” that can kick thinner workpieces.

Durability and lifespan

For a two‑pack, I expect at least a couple medium demo tasks per blade, and that’s what I saw. Across a week, I:

• Broke down a short run of 2x joists and nail‑heavy fascia.
• Cut several door jambs for flooring.
• Made plumbing pass‑throughs and trimmed a few EMT runs.

One blade handled the wood‑heavy parts, and a second blade took on the metal and odds and ends. At the end, the wood blade had noticeable rounding on the cutting edges but no missing teeth; it still cut pine albeit at a slower pace. The metal‑tasked blade showed more heat discoloration near the tip, with minor tooth deformation where it chattered through angle iron.

Overall durability is in line with a quality bi‑metal generalist. If you routinely hit screws or cut abrasive composites (cement board, fiber‑cement siding), expect faster wear. That’s true of most bi‑metal blades—carbide is the right move for those materials.

Design details that matter

• 10 TPI raker set: Gives a nice balance between chip evacuation in wood and not tearing itself to pieces in thin metal. It’s the “one blade in the saw” pitch that covers the most bases for remodeling.
• 6° hook angle: Makes the blade feel lively. Great for speed; demands some trigger discipline on starts.
• Anti‑stick coating: Not just marketing—it kept the blade cleaner in wet lumber and pressure‑treated cuts.
• Straight back: Slightly better stiffness than a deeply tapered profile, which helps with plunge cuts and line holding.

If you need ultra‑stiff control for precision flush trimming, a thicker demolition blade might feel better. This one aims for speed with enough backbone for general tasks, not surgical rigidity.

Value and who it suits

A two‑pack makes sense for homeowners and punch‑list pros who don’t need a dozen blades in the van. If you’re doing a full‑house gut or daily demo, larger packs or a mix of specialized blades (carbide wood‑with‑nails, 14–18 TPI metal, pruning) will save time and money.

For most remodel, repair, and MRO scenarios, keeping this blade in the saw lets you move from cutting out a stud to trimming a copper stub‑out without a swap. That convenience is the point.

What I’d pair it with

• A finer 14–18 TPI bi‑metal blade for sheet metal, stainless, and thin stock.
• A carbide‑tooth demolition blade for heavy nail‑embedded LVL, roofing, or abrasive composites.
• A pruning blade if you’re doing yard work—10 TPI will cut branches but throws more vibration and doesn’t clear the kerf as well as a true green‑wood profile.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not ideal for thick or hardened metals. It’ll do it in a pinch, but you’ll pay in heat and tooth life.
• The aggressive hook can feel grabby on thin materials and soft plastics; slow your start and back the speed down.
• A 6-inch length is the sweet spot for control, but if you need reach or deep plunge capacity, have an 8–9 inch blade on hand.

Bottom line

The DeWalt 6-inch 10 TPI bi‑metal blade is a solid, fast‑cutting generalist with real merit in wood and nail‑embedded material and acceptable performance in light metal. It won’t replace specialty blades for heavy steel or abrasive composites, but as the blade you leave in the saw for most remodeling tasks, it earns its keep. The reinforced teeth and raker set help it hold up through a few nail strikes without catastrophic failure, and the anti‑stick coating noticeably reduces gumming in resinous lumber.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade for general remodeling, maintenance, and light demo where you’re moving between wood and occasional metal. It’s a practical two‑pack to keep in the kit, especially if you value speed in wood and the flexibility to handle conduit or pipe. If your work leans heavily on thick steel or abrasive materials, step up to a carbide‑tooth or higher‑TPI metal blade and use this DeWalt as the everyday standby rather than the specialist.