DeWalt 1/2 in. (13 mm) VSR Drill

Why I reached for this drill

I brought this DeWalt 1/2‑in corded drill into the shop for a string of jobs where cordless just wasn’t the best fit: boring larger holes with spade bits, running a few hole saws, drilling through mild steel, and mixing thin‑set for a bathroom floor. A corded, lower‑RPM, higher‑torque drill is still the simpler, more predictable choice for that kind of work. After several weekends and a couple weekday site visits, here’s how it shook out.

Build and ergonomics

This is a straightforward, no‑nonsense tool. The metal gear housing gives it a reassuring, durable feel and helps shed heat, and the helical‑cut, heat‑treated steel gears run smoothly under load. At around 4.2 lb, it’s not a wrist anchor, but it’s substantial enough to feel planted when bits start to bite. The included 360° side handle is critical for a 1/2‑in drill like this; it locks down solidly and lets you index the grip exactly where you want it for torque reaction.

The two‑finger trigger is easy to modulate, and the lock‑on button is handy for mixing tasks. I do not recommend using lock‑on for drilling where a bit can bind; keep your finger on the trigger so you can dump power fast if the hole grabs. The cord is about 8 feet, which covers most bench and jobsite tasks without an immediate need for an extension cord. A small but appreciated touch: the rubber keeper for the chuck key actually holds onto the cord, so the key is where you need it.

One nit to pick: the plastic handle shell on mine had a couple of sharp mold lines around the lock‑on button opening. It wasn’t painful, but it was noticeable on a long session. I knocked the edges down with a bit of fine sandpaper in a minute. Not a deal‑breaker, just a reminder this is a working drill, not a luxury item.

Chuck and control

The 1/2‑in keyed metal chuck is the right call here. Under heavy torque with larger bits or hole saws, the keyed chuck just grips better and slips less than many keyless designs. Bit changes are slower, sure, but I’d rather spend an extra 20 seconds with a key than wrestle a stuck bit in a half‑tight chuck. On my sample, runout at the bit tip was minimal and well within what I expect from a corded drill in this class—no wobble that affected accuracy or hole quality.

Variable speed is via the trigger only—there’s no separate speed dial—but the trigger response is smooth and predictable. Reversing is positive and easily reached with your thumb. At a no‑load max of 850 RPM, this drill is geared for torque rather than speed, which is exactly what you want for heavy wood bits, hole saws, or mixing paddles.

Performance in wood and metal

Wood first: I ran a 1‑1/8‑in spade bit through framing lumber, a 2‑1/2‑in hole saw through plywood for ducting, and a few auger holes in pressure‑treated joists. The drill kept pace without drama. It will stall if you lean on it carelessly in dense stock, but back the bit out to clear chips and it pulls through fine. With the side handle set low, torque reaction is manageable, and the motor doesn’t feel strained. The lower top speed makes it easy to avoid burning and tear‑out when you start holes.

In metal, I drilled 3/8‑in holes through 1/4‑in mild steel angle using cutting oil and a good HSS bit, then stepped up to a 1/2‑in twist bit to test the published capacity. Running at moderate speed and feeding steadily, it delivered clean, round holes. Again, the keyed chuck pays off here—no slip, no drama. The motor warms up on extended metal drilling (most drills do), but the metal gear housing helps dissipate heat. Give it a rest between long runs and it cools quickly.

Not a hammer drill, and that matters

This is a plain rotary drill. It’s not a hammer drill and it’s definitely not an SDS. You can push a carbide masonry bit through brick or block in a pinch, but if your task list includes anchoring into cured concrete or foundation walls with any regularity, grab a real hammer drill or SDS‑Plus. You’ll save time, bits, and your elbows.

Mixing duty

For tile work, I mixed thin‑set and grout with a 4‑ to 5‑inch paddle. At 850 RPM max, this drill sits in a good range for mixing viscous materials without tearing air into the batch. The lock‑on switch is convenient for this use, and the side handle makes keeping the bucket under control painless. For continuous mixing across multiple buckets in a row, a dedicated low‑speed spade‑handle mixer will run cooler and take more abuse, but for remodeling work and intermittent batches, this DeWalt handles it well.

Durability and serviceability

So far, the mechanicals feel tight: no unusual gear lash, no bearing noise, and the trigger remains crisp. The helical‑cut gears contribute to the smooth feel under load, which usually bodes well for longevity. As with any corded drill, avoid dead‑stopping a large bit in a bind, and don’t lean on it at low RPMs until it bogs—both are hard on armatures and brushes. DeWalt backs it with a 3‑year limited warranty, one year of free service, and a 90‑day satisfaction guarantee. It’s UL listed, which I expect in a shop tool but still worth noting.

One small caveat: you’ll see inconsistent amp listings (often 9 A, sometimes 7.8 A) depending on where you look. In practical use, it behaves like a “9‑amp class” drill—plenty of grunt for what a 1/2‑in corded should do, but not a monster mixer.

Ergonomics and user experience

• Balance: Slightly nose‑heavy thanks to the metal gear case, which helps the bit find its start and reduces chatter.
• Vibration: Typical for the category—no anti‑vibe tricks, but not fatiguing.
• Sound: What you’d expect from a corded drill in this range; hearing protection recommended for long runs.
• Controls: Simple and glove‑friendly. Reversing switch has a definite detent; I never bumped it accidentally.
• Accessories: Side handle and chuck key with cord keeper included; no depth rod or case.

Where it fits

If you already carry a high‑end 18/20V hammer drill, you might wonder why add a corded 1/2‑in. Two reasons: sustained torque and repeatability. For big spade bits, hole saws, and mixing, this drill stays cooler and pulls steadily without the battery management overhead. And if your workbench is near outlets, the cord is more convenience than constraint.

For tradespeople, I’d slot it as a reliable, mid‑torque generalist: great as a dedicated mixing/drilling station on site or in the shop, and a smart backup when the cordless fleet is tied up. For DIYers and remodelers, it’s a durable, cost‑effective way to cover jobs your compact drill/driver struggles with.

The drawbacks

• No hammer mode, so serious masonry is off the table.
• Keyed chuck means slower bit swaps (the tradeoff for better grip).
• Slightly rough edges on the handle mold lines on my unit—easy to fix, but I noticed.
• No case, and the 8‑ft cord could be longer.

None of these are deal‑breakers, but they’re worth factoring into expectations and budget.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt 1/2‑in corded drill for anyone who needs dependable torque for wood and metal drilling, occasional hole saw work, and mixing duties without the variability of batteries. It’s simple, robust where it matters (metal housing, steel gears, keyed chuck), and easy to control at low speeds. It’s not a hammer drill, so choose something else for frequent concrete anchoring, and if you’re mixing mud all day every day, a purpose‑built low‑speed mixer will live longer. But as a workhorse that punches above its price, this drill earns a spot on the shelf and gets grabbed more often than I expected.