Bosch 4-1/2 In. X-LOCK Premium Sandwich Tuckpointing Blade

Why this sandwich-style tuckpointing blade earned a spot in my kit

I’ve tried just about every way to clean out mortar joints: skinny single blades with multiple passes, wider wheels that bog down and chatter, and improvised stacks that never quite track right. The Bosch sandwich tuckpointing blade has quietly ended that experimentation for me. It’s a 4-1/2-inch, double-blade “sandwich” with an X-LOCK/7/8-inch arbor, designed to be used with Bosch’s TG503 tuckpointing guard. What stands out isn’t a flashy feature—it’s the way the blade manages load, keeps a consistent joint width, and maintains control across a full day of repointing.

Setup, fit, and compatibility

I ran this blade mostly on an X-LOCK grinder and occasionally on a conventional 7/8-inch arbor grinder to check compatibility. Mounting on X-LOCK is as fast as advertised—click on, click off—no flange fiddling, no wrench. On a standard 7/8-inch grinder, it seats like a typical diamond wheel; just make sure the flanges clamp the blades evenly and you orient it with the rotation arrow.

This blade is designed to work with the TG503 tuckpointing guard. That guard matters. Tuckpointing throws a surprising amount of abrasive dust and chips, and the TG503’s shroud, depth stop, and vacuum port make the work safer and cleaner. With a decent vac connected, I could actually see the joint and stay on line without constant stopping to blow out dust. If you don’t have a compatible guard, budget for one; it’s part of the system.

Cutting performance in real mortar

The double-blade construction is the difference here. Instead of forcing a single, wide segment through the joint, the two blades cut parallel tracks and let the center material crumble out. That reduces friction and keeps the grinder from stalling. In practice, it means more progress with less pressure. On typical brickwork with Type N and Type S mortar, the blade tracked straight and didn’t “walk” out of the joint the way wider single wheels often do.

I made two passes per course on older brick with somewhat uneven joints: a shallow scoring pass to seat the blades, then a second pass to full depth. On more uniform, modern joints, I could go to depth in one controlled pass. The blade maintains a consistent kerf determined by the factory spacing, which helps with uniform repointing. You get clean shoulders in the joint and an even cavity that accepts new mortar without undercutting.

On softer, lime-rich mortar, the blade moves quickly and stays cool. On harder, high-cement joints and areas with embedded sand or occasional aggregate, you’ll hear the grinder dig in a bit and progress slows, but it still outpaces single wide wheels in my experience. Where it becomes less ideal is very narrow, hairline joints; the sandwich width can be too much for delicate historic work where minimal removal is the goal. For standard brickwork, though, the spacing is right in the sweet spot.

Control, vibration, and heat

Control is the best part of this design. The two-track cut helps guide itself in the joint, so you’re not fighting side load to stay straight. Vibration is low for a tuckpointing blade; I didn’t have to white-knuckle the grinder to stop it from chattering. You can hear when you hit harder pockets of mortar, but the blade doesn’t slam or bind if you keep the grinder square to the wall.

Heat buildup was manageable. Even during longer cuts, I didn’t notice discoloration or a drop-off in speed that would suggest glazing. Clearing dust by lifting out of the cut every foot or so helps keep temperatures in check. If you push too hard trying to force depth in one go, any tuckpointing blade will heat up; this one gives you enough cutting speed that you don’t need to force it.

Dust management and visibility

Paired with the TG503 guard and a capable vac, visibility is legitimately good. The guard’s window lets you see the blade edge and joint line, and the shroud captures the majority of dust. You’ll still get some fines sneaking out at the ends of passes and around irregular faces, but I could work continuously without the cloud that usually forces me to stop and let the air clear. If you’re switching between vertical head joints and long bed joints, adjust the depth stop to avoid overcutting and nicking the arris on the brick.

Battery and corded grinders

On a 4-1/2-inch cordless grinder, this blade felt surprisingly efficient. Because it removes material by slicing two shoulders rather than plowing a full-width channel, the grinder draws fewer peak amps than with a single wide wheel. I could finish small sections on a single battery that would typically require a swap. On a corded grinder, the benefit is the smoother feed rate—you maintain steady forward motion without the stop-and-go that overheats both blade and motor. Either way, the reduced load translates to less fatigue across the day.

Durability and lifespan

I ran the blade through a decent amount of joint removal—several walls worth of mixed-age brickwork—and segment wear was minimal and even. The two-blade sandwich construction seems to resist deflection and edge rounding better than cheaper stacked wheels. No warping, no broken segments, and no spacer loosening. As always, avoid prying with the blade or rolling into metal ties; it’s a cutting tool, not a scraper. If you do nick metal, expect a spark and a momentary slowdown, but the blade held up without chipping.

Where it doesn’t shine

• Very narrow joints: If the mortar joints are exceptionally tight, the factory spacing will be too wide. A single thin-kerf wheel is better for delicate removal.
• Deep removal needs: With a 4-1/2-inch diameter, your maximum practical depth is limited. For deep-set stone joints or thick render removal, you’ll want a larger diameter or multiple passes at stepped depths.
• Non-guarded use: The blade will “work” without a tuckpointing guard, but you’re giving up dust control, depth accuracy, and safety. This blade is best as part of the intended system.
• Price compared to budget wheels: Premium blades cost more up front. The payoff is speed, control, and lifespan. If you only have a few feet of mortar to remove, the cost difference may not pencil out.

Tips for best results

• Score first, then go to depth. A light first pass helps the blades seat and reduces wandering on irregular joints.
• Keep the grinder square. The sandwich design rewards a neutral wrist; tilting can undercut brick edges.
• Clear dust frequently. Lift out briefly to keep heat down and visibility up—your vac will do the rest.
• Use the TG503 guard. Set the depth stop to protect brick faces, and connect a vac with strong airflow and a clean filter.
• Don’t rush corners and returns. Start slightly off the corner, engage the blades, then walk into the intersecting joint.

Value and who it’s for

If you’re repointing more than a token patch, this blade makes a compelling case. The speed is real, but it’s the consistency that improves the overall job—clean, parallel shoulders and a repeatable joint width take pressure off your finishing work. Contractors and serious DIYers working on brick homes, chimneys, and masonry walls will see the benefit immediately. If your work skews toward historic masonry with extremely tight joints, keep a thin single wheel on hand and swap as needed. The X-LOCK compatibility also matters if you’re already in that ecosystem; the quick changes add up over a full day.

Bottom line

I recommend this Bosch sandwich tuckpointing blade. It cuts faster and with better control than the single wide wheels I’ve used, it plays nicely with both X-LOCK and standard 7/8-inch grinders, and paired with the TG503 guard it keeps dust and depth in check. It isn’t the blade for ultra-narrow historic joints or very deep removal, but for typical brick repointing it strikes the right balance of speed, accuracy, and durability. If you want cleaner joints with less effort—and fewer passes—this blade earns its keep.