Maasechs 10 Pcs 36 Inch Foam Closure Strips for Metal Roofing Panels Weatherproof Roof Foam Closure Strips for Metal Corrugated Roofing Panels Hurricane Roof Maintainrepair Supplies

Why these foam closures matter

On metal roofs, the tiny gaps at panel ends, ridges, and transitions are where problems start—wind-driven rain, buzzing insects, heat, and noise all creep in there. I’ve come to appreciate how much mileage you get from a simple, well-cut foam closure. The Maasechs foam closure strips are one of those small components that quietly elevate a roof from “installed” to “buttoned up.”

What you get and where they fit

This pack includes ten white, closed-cell foam strips, each 36 inches long. That’s roughly 30 feet of coverage. The profile is an “octagonal” shape sized for circular-wave (corrugated) panels. The strips measure about 25 mm wide and are designed to press into the panel shape to block the voids.

In practice, I used them in three spots:
- At the eave, under the first panel run, to stop blow-back and bugs.
- Under a ridge cap as an internal closure.
- Behind some side-wall flashing where corrugated meets vertical trim.

They are intended as interior closures (out of direct sunlight), and that’s how they perform best. I wouldn’t rely on them as an exposed outside closure in harsh UV without additional protection.

Installation experience

Installation is uncomplicated, and that’s the biggest advantage here. After clearing metal swarf and debris, I dry-fit each strip into the corrugation to check the bite. The foam compresses predictably without crumbling, and I could “snake” it along minor variances in the panel wave. Cutting is easy with a sharp utility knife; I made angle cuts to follow transitions and notches to bypass fastener locations.

A few tips from my install:
- Use a measuring tape and mark your cut lines—clean cuts seal better than ragged tears.
- Pre-form the strip by hand into the corrugations before applying any sealant or tape.
- There’s no adhesive backing. For eaves and ridges, I had the best results with a thin bead of butyl or polyurethane sealant along the peaks, or a strip of butyl tape to keep the foam in place during panel placement.
- Stagger end joints between neighboring strips so you don’t create a straight pathway for air or water.

The 36-inch length helps minimize joints; I only had to make a few splice cuts on a small shed roof.

Fit and compatibility

No foam closure is truly universal. Corrugated panel profiles vary in pitch and amplitude, and that’s where the shape and density of the foam earn their keep. These strips are forgiving. The octagonal cross-section flattens and rebounds without pinching into sharp corners, so it can bridge slight mismatches between the foam wave and the panel wave.

That said, if you’re working with very deep corrugations or trapezoidal rib panels (like R-panel or PBR), you’ll want closures matched to that specific profile. For classic circular corrugation, these worked well in my tests. Plan to trim the foam if your panel radius is tighter than average; a shallow chamfer with a knife improves the seal on narrow crests.

Sealing performance

I evaluate closures on four fronts: water, air, pests, and noise.

• Water: With butyl backing and proper compression under the metal, these strips stopped blow-back at the eave and ridge during a hose test and a storm later in the week. As always, closures aren’t a substitute for correct panel overhang, drip edge, and cap fit—but they do the finishing work to block capillary pathways.

• Air: Drafts around the ridge cap and through the eave void disappeared. On windy days, the attic space beneath the test section stayed notably calmer, which also helps with temperature stability.

• Pests: The closed-cell structure fills the voids snugly. I specifically look for daylight around fasteners and valleys, and I didn’t spot any. The foam compresses around minor irregularities and creates an honest barrier against insects.

• Noise: Corrugations can drum in gusty conditions. With the foam at the eave and ridge, the “whistle” and rattle were diminished. It doesn’t eliminate rain noise like a full underlayment change would, but it certainly helps tame vibration at the panel ends.

Durability and weathering

The foam is closed-cell and fairly dense, which matters for long-term compression set. After several clamp-and-release cycles and a couple of days under panel pressure, the rebound stayed consistent. In cold morning temps, the strips remained pliable and didn’t split when flexed. That cold-weather resilience is important if you’re working in shoulder seasons.

Regarding sunlight, I keep these under metal or under ridge flashing. White foam does reflect a bit of radiant heat, but I consider that incidental—the real win is that white makes it easy to see debris and cut lines. Exposed to UV, most foams will yellow and embrittle over time; that’s another reason to use them as internal closures and not leave them sticking out from under panels.

Mold and moisture resistance appears solid. Closed-cell foam doesn’t wick water the way open-cell does, and once compressed against a bead of butyl, it’s well isolated from liquid water.

What I like

• Straightforward fit for common corrugated profiles; compresses without crumbling.
• Easy to cut and shape with a utility knife; 36-inch lengths reduce seam count.
• Closed-cell density balances flexibility and support; good rebound and seal.
• Effective at blocking wind-driven rain, pests, and drafts when paired with butyl.
• Pack size is practical—10 pieces cover about 30 feet, enough for a small shed or a ridge run on a modest roof.

Where it can improve

• No adhesive backing. I prefer closures with peel-and-stick for overhead work. You’ll need butyl tape or sealant to hold these in place during installation.
• Profile universality has limits. Deep or trapezoidal panels require a different closure shape. Measure your corrugation pitch before relying on a one-size fit.
• White foam shows dirt and pencil marks quickly. Not a performance issue, but it’s visible during install.

Who it’s for

• DIYers re-roofing a shed, carport, lean-to, or small outbuilding with corrugated metal.
• Pros who need a dependable, trim-to-fit internal closure for eaves, ridges, and transitions on circular-wave panels.
• Anyone chasing down drafts, dust, or bug paths in an existing corrugated roof where the original closures are missing or degraded.

If you’re working on architectural standing seam or ribbed ag panels, you’ll want closures matched to those profiles instead.

Practical tips for best results

• Dry-fit first. Mark the crest and valley contact points, then trim for a snug, not overstuffed, fit.
• Use a continuous bead of butyl or a strip of butyl tape for placement and long-term seal integrity.
• Stagger the seams and avoid aligning closure joints with panel overlaps.
• Don’t overtighten fasteners near the closure; excessive compression can create low spots that channel water.
• Keep the foam protected from UV. If any foam is visible after panel placement, re-trim and tuck it under the metal.

Final recommendation

I recommend the Maasechs foam closure strips for corrugated metal roofing where an internal, press-fit closure is appropriate. They install cleanly, conform well to typical circular-wave profiles, and provide a reliable barrier against water, air, and pests when used with a proper sealant. The lack of adhesive backing is the main tradeoff, but that’s easy to address with butyl tape or a bead of sealant. For small to mid-size projects, the 10-piece pack offers practical coverage without waste. If your panels are trapezoidal or unusually deep, look for a profile-specific closure; otherwise, these strips are a solid, no-drama solution that helps a metal roof perform the way it should.