Maasechs 15 Pcs 36 Inch Foam Closure Strips for Metal Roofing Panels Weatherproof Roof Foam Closure Strips for Metal Corrugated Roofing Panels Hurricane Roof Maintainrepair Supplies

What these are and where they make sense

Foam closure strips aren’t glamorous, but they’re the small detail that determines whether a corrugated or metal roof stays tight, weather-resistant, and pest-free. The Maasechs foam closure strips are closed‑cell pieces cut to match circular/sinusoidal corrugations. Each strip is 36 inches long (about 914 mm) and roughly an inch wide (about 25 mm). You press them into the panel profile along eaves, ridges, or transitions to block wind-driven rain, insects, dust, and drafts. They also add a touch of insulation and cushion where metal meets framing.

I used a full pack on a DIY shed and a lean‑to roof off a garage. In both cases, I placed strips at the eave and ridge, and added a few sections where the metal roof meets vertical wall panel. The strips are intended for interior/under-panel use, which is how I installed them—out of direct sun and weather but directly in the air path where bugs and wind try to sneak in.

Fit and compatibility

The profile on these is a faceted “octagonal” take on a sinusoidal corrugation. In practice, that means they mate nicely with standard circular-wave roofing panels (think typical corrugated sheets from the home center). If you’re using trapezoidal or deep-ribbed panels (PBR, R‑panel, or standing seam), these won’t match—look for profile-specific closures for those systems.

Before committing, I dry-fit a strip across a panel laid flat. The peaks and valleys lined up well enough that I couldn’t see daylight through the contact points. A little compression closes the small gaps you’d expect with a foam profile that’s designed to be somewhat universal. If your corrugation pitch is odd or oversized, you can trim locally with a sharp utility knife; the foam cuts cleanly.

Tip: bring a short offcut of your roof panel when shopping for closures, or lay a strip on the panel in your driveway before installing anything. The 36-inch length makes this quick.

Installation experience

Installation is straightforward and forgiving, which is exactly what you want when you’re on a ladder. My process:

• Clean: I swept and wiped the interior side of the roofing at the eave and ridge so the foam sat on clean metal/framing.
• Measure and cut: The strips cut easily with a fresh utility blade. For tight miters at corners and transitions, I made light scoring passes rather than trying to chop in one go.
• Dry fit: I pressed the strip into the corrugations to check contact and made small trims where fastener heads or uneven framing interfered.
• Set and secure: The strips are designed to be press-fit, and in many spots friction was enough. Where I wanted extra hold (overhead at the ridge and along a windy eave), I ran a thin bead of construction adhesive or butyl tape. This isn’t mandatory, but it prevents creeping during panel fastening or seasonal movement.

Even working solo, I installed about 45 linear feet in an afternoon, including cutting time. The foam has enough resilience that you can compress it slightly to encourage a snug fit as you drive fasteners.

Sealing performance

The most immediate difference was at the eave. Before the closures, I could see pinholes of light through the corrugation valleys. After installing, the light disappears and, with it, direct pathways for bugs and drafts. On the first breezy evening, the shed interior was noticeably less drafty, and since then I haven’t found the usual pile of moths and beetles that used to collect near the door.

In rain, closures are not a substitute for good flashing and panel overlap, but they are an effective secondary barrier. They interrupt wind-driven spray and help prevent water from chasing up the underside of the panel at the eave, especially when paired with a bead of butyl at critical runs. I checked after a couple of heavy storms and didn’t see moisture intrusion where closures were installed correctly.

As a side benefit, the foam adds a bit of decoupling between the panel and structure. Don’t expect dramatic soundproofing, but it slightly tames panel “ticking” from thermal expansion.

Material quality and durability

These are closed‑cell foam, which matters. Closed‑cell resists water absorption and won’t sponge up moisture, making it far more mold- and mildew-resistant than open‑cell options. The foam has a medium density—stiff enough to hold profile, soft enough to compress without tearing. After installation, I went back a month later and again after a hot/cool cycle; the strips retained their shape and grip and didn’t crumble or shed.

Because they’re white, they’re easy to see in dim attic spaces, which helps during installation. That said, I would not leave any foam closure exposed to sunlight long-term; most foams, even good ones, degrade under UV. Keep them on the interior side or under trim and ridge caps as intended. If you must use them where they’ll see occasional light, cover with metal flashing or compatible tape.

On cold mornings, the foam remained pliable, which helped in a late‑season install. It didn’t turn brittle the way bargain foams can.

Coverage and value

A pack contains 15 strips at 36 inches each—45 linear feet total. For small projects (sheds, carports, a short run of ridge or eave), that’s usually enough with some offcuts. For larger roofs, calculate runs at the eave and ridge and plan on extra for wall transitions or vent openings.

Because the strips are uniform, offcuts can be repurposed around roof penetrations—vents, pipes, and fan housings—where you can tuck a half-length to block gaps. Little goes to waste if you plan your cuts.

There’s no adhesive backing, which is a double‑edged sword. The upside: you’re not fighting a pre-applied tape that sticks where you don’t want it, and you can pair the foam with the sealant of your choice. The downside: in some orientations you’ll want to add your own adhesive/tape to keep it in place during fastening.

What I liked

• Easy, clean install: Cuts straight, compresses predictably, and seats well in common corrugated profiles.
• Effective bug and draft barrier: Clear difference at eaves/ridges with no light leaks once fitted.
• Closed‑cell resilience: Resists water uptake and mold; holds up through temperature swings.
• Generous pack size: 45 feet of coverage fits most small projects with room for mistakes.

What could be better

• Profile specificity: Works best on circular/sinusoidal corrugations; not suited for trapezoidal or deep‑rib panels. That’s expected but worth calling out.
• No peel‑and‑stick option: Some installers may prefer an integrated adhesive strip to speed overhead work.
• White foam visibility: If any portion ends up slightly exposed at a seam, the white can show. Paintable options or gray/black variants would blend better.

Practical tips

• Dry-fit first. You’ll spot profile mismatches before you commit to a full run.
• Use a sharp blade and light passes to prevent ragged edges when cutting.
• For ridge runs, a thin strip of butyl tape beneath the foam significantly boosts water resistance without gluing everything permanently in place.
• Stagger joints so you don’t end a foam piece at the same location as a panel seam.
• Keep foam out of direct UV. Under ridge caps, eave trim, or inside the structure is ideal.

The bottom line

Maasechs foam closure strips do exactly what this category should: they close the last 5% of gaps that create 95% of headaches in corrugated roofing. They’re easy to install, compress to fit, and the closed‑cell material stands up to moisture and temperature swings. As long as your panel profile is the intended circular wave and you keep them on the protected side of the roof system, they provide a reliable barrier against bugs, drafts, and wind‑driven spray.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone installing or retrofitting corrugated metal roofing on sheds, carports, lean‑tos, or similar structures. They’re a simple, inexpensive step that meaningfully improves weather- and pest-resistance, and the 45 feet per pack suits most small projects. If you’re working with trapezoidal/deep‑rib panels or you need exposed/UV-stable closures, look for a profile‑specific, UV‑rated alternative; otherwise, these are a solid, dependable choice.