Saillong 1 Piece Lighted Doorbell Button, Wall Mounted Garage Door Opener Switch with LED Light Compatible with Most Wire Doorbell Chimes, Transformer, Ringers, Buzzers

Why I picked this simple, lighted button

I like small upgrades that quietly improve daily life, and a lighted doorbell button is a perfect example. The simplified name for the switch I tested is the Saillong lighted button—a compact, low‑profile, wired push button with an integrated white LED. I installed it in two places: as a straight replacement for a tired front‑door button and as a surface‑mounted trigger for a wall‑mounted garage door opener. In both scenarios, it did exactly what I wanted: make the button easy to spot in low light without adding complexity or introducing compatibility headaches.

Design and build

This is a minimalist, rectangular button finished in white with a white LED. It’s small—about 2.8 x 0.86 x 0.59 inches—so it doesn’t dominate trim or siding, and the low profile looks tidy rather than cheap. The housing feels better than its price would suggest: the cover is rigid enough that it won’t flex under pressure, and the interior uses copper contacts instead of flimsy spring steel. That matters for longevity, especially outdoors where humidity and oxidation can accelerate wear.

The LED sits behind the button cap and produces a clean, neutral white glow. It’s bright enough to be seen from the walkway at night, but it didn’t glare or spill light through my door seam. If you prefer subtle over showy, this hits a nice balance.

A note on weather: there’s no explicit IP rating. Like most simple wired buttons, it’s intended for covered exposures (e.g., under an eave or porch). If you’re mounting on an unsheltered exterior wall, I’d add a thin bead of clear sealant around the perimeter after installation.

Installation experience

For a standard doorbell replacement in a low‑voltage system (typically 16–24 VAC), installation was quick:

• Cut power to the transformer at the breaker or remove the transformer fuse if accessible.
• Remove the old button and note the two low‑voltage wires.
• Fasten those two wires to the Saillong’s screw terminals; polarity doesn’t matter for the switch function.
• Position the button, mark the holes, drill pilot holes (masonry bit and anchors for concrete/brick; standard wood bit for trim), and secure it with the included screws.

Total time: about 10 minutes with hand tools. Because this is a low‑voltage device, you’re not opening a high‑voltage box, but I still recommend cutting power—doorbell transformers can sting, and you don’t want to short the circuit while working.

The package includes two mounting screws but no wire. If you’re replacing an existing button, you’ll reuse the existing doorbell wire (18–22 AWG is typical).

Surface‑mounted garage door use

I also tried it as a wall‑mounted momentary push button for a garage door opener. Electrically, it works fine: it’s just a normally open switch that closes on press. Physically, there’s one small hiccup—there’s no pre‑made top or bottom port for surface‑run wires. My garage has the control wire coming down the wall, so I needed a way to route that into the back. I made a small notch on the top edge with a round file, which took a minute and preserved a clean look. If your wire comes from behind the button (in‑wall), you won’t need to do this.

Compatibility and electrical behavior

The Saillong is designed for low‑voltage, hardwired systems and worked with:

• A two‑tone mechanical chime driven by a 16 VAC transformer
• An electronic chime module
• A standard garage door opener wall control input

Lighted buttons sometimes cause older mechanical chimes to hum or not fully release because the LED draws a tiny trickle current. In my tests, the LED didn’t introduce humming with a common 16 VAC mechanical chime. If your chime does hum, you can usually solve it by switching to an electronic chime, adding a small resistor/diode kit made for illuminated buttons, or using the transformer’s “front” and “trans” terminals per the chime’s wiring diagram. For most modern chimes, you should be fine out of the box.

The LED’s draw is minimal—this isn’t going to nudge your utility bill in any meaningful way. It stayed consistently lit without flicker.

Day‑to‑day use

There isn’t much to say about pressing a button, and that’s the point. The plunger has a positive, snappy feel with a short travel and a crisp contact. In several weeks outdoors, it didn’t stick or feel mushy after rain. The light makes the entryway feel more purposeful at night; visitors immediately find the target instead of hunting for a tiny unlit dot.

In the garage, the discrete white glow is easy to locate without lighting up the space. Because the LED is diffused, it’s readable from an angle rather than only head‑on.

What I like

• Clean, low‑profile design that doesn’t look bargain‑bin
• Bright-but-not-glaring white LED that’s easy to spot at night
• Copper contacts and a rugged face that should stand up to frequent presses
• Simple two‑wire install with included mounting screws
• Broad compatibility with low‑voltage chimes, transformers, and garage door inputs

What could be better

• No molded port or notch for surface‑run wires. If you’re not bringing wire from behind the button, you’ll need to make a tiny notch with a file or rotary tool.
• No stated weather rating. It handled covered outdoor placement fine, but I’d prefer a light gasket or explicit IP spec for harsher exposures.
• Only available in white with white light. A few finish options would help users match trim or chime lights.

Practical tips for a smooth install

• Verify your transformer output: most systems are 16 VAC. If your chime is underpowered or strangely quiet, check the transformer label or test with a multimeter.
• Pre‑drill pilot holes, especially in hardwood trim, to avoid cracking. For masonry, use anchors sized to the included screws.
• If installing on painted surfaces, score a tiny outline with a utility knife before tightening to reduce paint lifting.
• For uncovered exterior installs, run a thin bead of clear silicone around the perimeter and lightly snug the screws—don’t overtighten.
• If your mechanical chime hums after installing a lighted button, consult the chime diagram. A simple inline resistor or a different terminal combination often resolves it.

Who this is for

• Homeowners replacing an aging or yellowed doorbell button who want a subtle night‑visible upgrade without moving to a smart doorbell
• Renters and property managers who need a low‑cost, reliable button for apartments or multifamily entries
• Anyone wanting a straightforward garage door wall button that’s easy to see in dim light (with the caveat about adding a small notch for surface wires)

The bottom line

The Saillong lighted button is a straightforward, reliable upgrade that checks the right boxes: easy to install, compatible with common low‑voltage setups, and illuminated in a way that’s useful rather than flashy. The build feels sturdier than many generic buttons, and the copper contact design inspires confidence. It’s not feature‑rich, but that’s the appeal—there’s nothing to configure, no batteries to replace, and little that can go wrong.

Recommendation: I recommend this button for most wired doorbell and garage door applications. It’s a simple, inexpensive way to improve nighttime usability and refresh curb appeal, with solid build quality and minimal installation friction. The only reasons to look elsewhere are if you need a specific finish, a fully weather‑sealed unit for direct exposure, or a plug‑and‑play surface‑wire port. For typical covered entries and garages, it’s a smart, low‑effort upgrade that just works.