newlng 500pcs Small Nail Round Head Tiny Nails String Art Nails Hand-Made Hardware Accessories Fasteners Mini Nails 1.5mm X 20mm/0.06"X0.8"(DXL) Silver

I reached for the newlng mini nails for a set of small indoor projects: a string art board for a kids’ craft afternoon, tacking thin back panels onto a couple of picture frames, and pinning trim on a tiny pine keepsake box. These are truly small nails—1.5 mm in diameter and 20 mm long—with a neat, silvery finish and a rounded head that’s easy to see and catch with string or thread. They’re sold in a 500-count pack, which is the right scale for crafts where you’ll drive dozens in a single sitting.

What you’re getting

• Size: 1.5 mm diameter x 20 mm length
• Material: iron with an electroplated silver finish
• Head style: round (not a brad; the head is pronounced)
• Quantity: 500 pieces in a resealable bag

The finish is bright without being mirror‑shiny, and the heads are consistently round enough that they all look uniform when installed in a grid or outline for string art. The resealable packaging sounds trivial, but for tiny fasteners it matters; you won’t end up with a shop drawer full of mystery strays.

Build and finish

For a budget craft nail, these are better made than I expected. Shanks are straight on the vast majority, and the head-to-shank alignment is decent, which helps them track straight under the hammer. The electroplated finish is clean and—within the intended use—holds up. That said, it’s still iron under plating. I’d keep them indoors and away from humid environments. They’re not the right choice for bathrooms, outdoor planters, or anywhere condensation is a fact of life. If corrosion resistance or a warmer tone matters, brass escutcheon pins are the usual alternative, but you’ll pay more.

I culled a small handful with imperfect tips or a slight bend. It won’t derail a project, but plan for a minimal defect rate. For crafts, I always pour fasteners into a tray and pick through anyway, so tossing a few aside is no hardship.

Driving experience

At 1.5 mm thick, these are in that tricky zone where holding the nail with your fingers while tapping is awkward and risky. Use needle‑nose pliers, a hemostat, or a “comb” made from a scrap of cardboard with slits cut into it to hold the nails upright. A light tack hammer is ideal; a standard carpenter’s hammer works, but the mass makes it easy to overdrive or bend them.

Pre-drilling makes a big difference. In softwood like pine or poplar, a fine pilot eliminates most bending and dramatically reduces the chance of splitting thin stock. A pin vise or a 1.0 mm bit in a cordless drill works well. In harder woods or very thin material (think craft plywood, balsa sheeting, basswood strip), pre-drilling goes from “helpful” to “mandatory.”

Because these have a round head rather than a nearly headless brad, they don’t disappear. That’s exactly what you want for string art, where the head is what captures the thread. It’s less ideal if you’re trying to make the fastener vanish. You can set the head slightly and fill over it, but if you need an invisible fix, a true brad or a pin is the better match.

Use cases that suit them

• String art and outlines on softwoods: The head diameter gives thread plenty of purchase, and the bright finish reads well against stained or painted boards.
• Light assembly and trim on small boxes: The nails offer enough holding power for thin trim and small parts, especially with wood glue doing most of the structural work.
• Picture frame backing and craft fixtures: Great for pinning thin panels and creating removable stops or hooks in shop jigs.

They’re less appropriate for:

• Dense hardwoods or end grain: Expect bending and frustration unless you pre-drill meticulously—and even then, performance is mixed.
• Model ship hulls or delicate scale parts: At 1.5 mm diameter, the shank can wedge and split thin planking. A thinner brass pin or a wire nail closer to 1.0 mm is safer.
• Anything structural or load-bearing: These are craft nails, not construction fasteners.
• Masonry or reinforced concrete: Not what they’re designed for.

Holding power and consistency

Driven into pine with a shallow pilot, they hold better than their size suggests. The shank-to-head transition is crisp enough that countersinking slightly is possible with a nail set, though you’ll mar the finish if you go too far. In string art, head height consistency matters so threads sit evenly. Here, the batch I used was impressively uniform; any variance came more from my hammering than from the nails themselves. If you need perfectly level heads across a big board, add a piece of painter’s tape on the hammer face to soften the blow and practice a consistent strike rhythm.

Finish and corrosion

The electroplating fends off casual tarnish during handling and installation. For purely indoor decorative projects, I have no qualms. I wouldn’t use these in environments where they’ll be exposed to moisture, adhesive water-based finishes before they cure, or damp wood. If you must embed them into a piece that will be sealed, apply finish to the wood first, let it cure fully, then install the nails to minimize moisture exposure. For maximum longevity in humid air, choose brass or stainless micro fasteners instead.

Practical tips from the bench

• Use the right hammer: A tack hammer or a small jeweler’s hammer gives control. With a full-size hammer, choke up and take very light taps.
• Pre-drill pilots: Aim for a bit slightly smaller than the shank. Even a shallow starter hole helps the nail sit and bite correctly.
• Hold safely: Needle-nose pliers, hemostats, or a “nail comb” save fingertips and prevent wobble that leads to bending.
• Lubricate stubborn spots: A rub on a block of beeswax or dry soap reduces friction in harder woods.
• Depth control: For string art, a simple depth stop made from a short piece of drinking straw or a strip of tape on the shank keeps head heights even.
• Plan stock thickness: At 20 mm long, these pass through thin boards. Use thicker backers, aim for a shallower angle, or clip to length with flush cutters as needed.
• Expect to cull a few: Keep a magnet or dish handy and set aside the occasional bent or blunt tip.

How they stack up

Compared to brass escutcheon pins in a similar length, these cost less and look cooler-toned. They’re sturdier than very fine brass pins but more prone to surface corrosion over time. Compared to headless brads or pin nails, they’re far better for crafts where the head is an asset and alignment matters by eye. If you’re building furniture or installing trim where you’ll hide the fastener, choose brads; if you want the nail to be part of the look or act as a capture point, these make sense.

The bottom line

The newlng mini nails hit a sweet spot for craft and light-duty woodworking. They’re small enough for delicate work, the round heads are consistent and useful for string art, and the overall quality is strong for the price. They demand proper technique—small hammer, pliers, and pilots—to avoid bending and to protect fragile stock, and they’re strictly indoor, dry-environment fasteners.

Recommendation: I recommend these for crafters, hobbyists, and light woodworking tasks where a visible, uniform round head is desirable. They’re economical, largely consistent, and easy to work with once you adopt the right setup. If you need invisible fasteners, corrosion-proof hardware, or nails for dense hardwoods or masonry, look elsewhere. But for string art, small boxes, frames, and decorative fixtures, this 1.5 x 20 mm size from newlng is a dependable, tidy choice.