DeWalt 3 in x .131 in paper-tape, 30° smooth bright off-set round head nails (2,500 pc)

Why I reached for these nails

On a recent interior framing project, I ran the DeWalt 30° paper-tape 3-inch framing nails through a couple of nailers I trust: a DeWalt 30° framer and an older Paslode with a well-worn magazine. I wanted a straightforward, smooth-shank nail for stud walls and headers where I didn’t need the extra bite of a ring shank, and I wanted the cleaner jobsite that paper tape provides. These nails ticked both boxes and, for the most part, behaved exactly as I hoped.

What they are (and what they’re for)

These are 3-inch by .131-inch, smooth-shank, bright-finish, off-set round head nails collated on 30° paper-tape strips. Translation: they’re sized right for a lot of interior framing, they feed in most 30° paper-tape nailers, the heads meet code (ICC-ES ESR-1539) for jurisdictions that scrutinize head style, and the bright finish means they’re intended for dry, interior work—not exterior decks or anything in pressure-treated lumber.

If your nailer takes 21° plastic or 28° wire-weld sticks, these won’t fit. If your gun is a 30° paper-tape model, you’re in the right place. Some 34° paper-tape guns will tolerate 30° strips, but don’t assume—check your manual.

Driving performance and consistency

With both nailers set to 100–110 PSI, these drove cleanly into SPF studs, LVL headers, and doubled-up top plates without drama. The smooth shank slips in easily, and I didn’t see a spike in blowouts or splitting in kiln-dried stock. Overdrive was controlled once I dialed in depth; the off-set round heads set flush in framing lumber without chewing up the face more than usual.

A few notes from hands-on use:

• Feed reliability: I ran multiple sticks across two guns. Strips tracked straight in both magazines, and I didn’t encounter premature breakage of the paper during feed—always a concern with paper tape.
• Straightness and quality: Shafts were straight and tips consistent. I culled very few nails for blemishes—about what I expect from a brand-name collated nail.
• Jam rate: No jams in the DeWalt. One minor nose hang-up in the older Paslode that I chalk up to the gun’s age and dust, not the nails. After a quick blast of air and a drop of oil, it ran clean.

Code and head style

The off-set round head is a practical compromise: you get close to full head coverage with more nails per strip and reliable feeding. The ESR-1539 recognition matters if you’re working under inspectors who prefer full-round profiles. I’ve never had a red tag over this head style with the ESR in hand.

Smooth shank: the right choice for some, not all

Smooth-shank nails drive fast and reduce wood splitting. Their holding power in withdrawal, however, is lower than ring- or screw-shank fasteners. For interior framing, where the joint is primarily in shear and members are strapped, glued, and blocked, smooth shanks are fine. For sheathing and decking, I prefer ring shank to minimize creep and squeaks over time. If you plan to nail subfloor or roof sheathing with these, be realistic: they’ll work, but ring-shank alternatives are usually a better long-term choice.

Finish and corrosion resistance

“Bright” means bare steel without galvanization or coating for corrosion resistance. That’s perfect for interior walls and partitions in conditioned space. It’s the wrong choice for exterior assemblies, wet areas, or pressure-treated lumber. Codes and manufacturers typically call for hot-dipped galvanized or stainless fasteners for decks, fences, and PT framing. If you’re building a deck or fastening anything exposed to moisture, reach for a galvanized ring-shank in the same size instead.

Paper tape: less mess, more care required

Paper-tape collation is a big plus on site. Unlike plastic-collated sticks, these don’t shower the area with shards after every shot. Cleanup is easier, and there’s less risk of plastic slivers hiding underfoot. The trade-off is moisture sensitivity. If the paper gets damp, it swells, weakens, and strips can fray or break apart while loading or feeding.

A few storage habits that paid off:

• Keep the box off concrete slabs. I store nails in a plastic tote with a lid or the original carton placed on a scrap of plywood.
• Don’t leave open boxes in a truck bed overnight. If humidity is high, bag them.
• If a strip gets soft or layered, don’t force it. Break the strip at a clean junction and load shorter runs rather than jamming the magazine.

Handled properly, the paper tape holds together well and feeds smoothly. Neglected, it’s the quickest way to create a headache with any paper-collated nail—not just these.

Compatibility check

These are 30° paper-tape, off-set round head. They ran perfectly in my DeWalt and my older Paslode framer. They will not work in 21° plastic-collated guns or 28° wire-weld guns, and many 34° paper-tape guns want 34° sticks specifically. Don’t rely on “it looks close.” Check the angle stamped on your magazine or in the manual. If you run a mixed fleet of nailers on a crew, standardize or clearly label which nails go to which guns to avoid surprise jams.

Packaging and quantity

At 2,500 nails per box, the quantity makes sense for a small house or a couple of basement buildouts. The box is heavy, and like every paper-tape product, it’s only as resilient as the environment you keep it in. My carton arrived intact, strips were crisp, and the internal dividers held up. Still, I immediately moved them into a lidded bin; that’s a habit I recommend for any paper-collated nails to prevent incidental moisture damage and to keep the strips from getting crushed.

Tuning the nailer for best results

A few quick adjustments improved consistency:

• Depth-of-drive: Set it to leave the head just flush in framing lumber. Smooth shanks are easy to overdrive, especially in softer SPF.
• Air pressure: 100–110 PSI was the sweet spot in my guns for dimensional lumber. For LVL, bump toward the high end.
• Tip selection: A no-mar tip isn’t necessary here; use the toothed tip to steady the nose and prevent skittering on end grain.
• Fastener schedule: If your plans call for 3-1/4-inch nails or a larger diameter (e.g., .148-inch), don’t substitute these. They’re 3-inch by .131-inch—appropriate for many, but not all, framing schedules.

Jobsite results

Across a few days of framing walls, doubling top plates, and stitching headers, these nails gave me what I want from a smooth bright: fast driving, predictable set, and low debris. The off-set heads seat uniformly, and the strips didn’t disintegrate in the magazine. Where they’re not ideal—subfloor or exterior—they never pretended to be. Keep them dry, keep them inside, and they do their job without fuss.

Value

Name-brand collated nails tend to cost a little more than generic sticks, but the difference is quickly offset by fewer feed issues and a consistent drive. If you count your time and the aggravation of clearing jams, consistency matters. These deliver that consistency, provided you protect the paper collation.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 30° paper-tape 3-inch framing nails for interior framing with compatible nailers. They drive cleanly, the off-set round heads satisfy code requirements, and paper-tape collation keeps the jobsite tidier than plastic. Just be mindful of two boundaries: they’re smooth shank (not the best choice where withdrawal resistance is critical), and they’re bright finish (not for exterior or pressure-treated applications). If you need holding power for sheathing or subfloor, step up to a ring-shank variant. If you’re working outdoors or with treated lumber, choose galvanized or stainless. Within their lane—interior framing in a 30° paper-tape gun—and kept dry, these nails are a dependable, productive choice.