DeWalt 2-3/8" x .113" Ring Galvanized (1M PK)

A dependable ring‑shank nail for framing and sheathing, with a few caveats

I put these DeWalt ring‑shank galvanized nails (model DPTS8DR113G) through a mix of framing repairs, wall sheathing, and some deck blocking in pressure‑treated lumber. At 2‑3/8 inches long and 0.113 inches in diameter, they sit in a sweet spot for 7/16–5/8 sheathing and many interior framing tasks where you want stronger withdrawal resistance than a smooth shank can deliver. They’re galvanized to ASTM A153 and carry ICC‑ES ESR‑1539 compliance, which matters if you need an ESR to show an inspector that your fastener choice is up to code.

I ran them primarily in a 30‑degree paper‑collated framing nailer, both bump and sequential, and paid attention to feed reliability, holding power, and how the galvanized finish behaved over a few wet‑dry cycles outdoors.

Build and spec notes

• Size: 2‑3/8 in length, 0.113 in diameter
• Shank: Ring shank for higher withdrawal resistance
• Finish: Galvanized to ASTM A153
• Quantity: 1,000 per box
• Code: ICC‑ES ESR‑1539

That ring profile is the headline feature here. Compared to smooth shank nails, these bite hard and stay put, particularly in softwoods and pressure‑treated stock where seasonal movement can work fasteners loose. In wall sheathing, I had fewer nail pops over a few days of weather swings than I typically see with smooth 0.113s. In deck blocking and fascia backing, the difference in pull‑out resistance is obvious when prying test pieces apart.

Compatibility and drivability

These are paper‑collated for 30‑degree framing nailers, which is what a lot of pros and remodelers carry. They loaded cleanly and seated well in two different nailers I use regularly. A couple of notes from the field:

• Drivability: The galvanized coating adds surface roughness, and the ring shank ups driving resistance. I needed a tick more air (toward the top end of the nailer’s recommended PSI) to consistently set flush in dense SPF and PT. If you’re seeing proud heads, bump your regulator slightly and fine‑tune depth of drive.
• Feed reliability: With intact strips, I didn’t have feed issues. Broken or partial strips are more likely to misfeed in paper‑collated magazines—true for most brands—so I culled damaged sections before loading. Doing so eliminated nuisance jams.
• Consistency: Head size, collation spacing, and shank straightness were consistent across the box. That’s important for sequential fire and for maintaining inspection‑friendly nail patterns on sheathing.

If you run a 21‑degree plastic or 34‑degree clipped‑head nailer, these won’t fit—nothing unusual about that, but worth stating before you order.

Holding power and structural performance

Ring shank nails earn their keep in applications where withdrawal resistance matters: wall and roof sheathing, subfloor, and blocking. In side‑by‑side tests (prying apart two‑by stock fastened with a pair of nails), the ring shanks held significantly longer than smooth shanks of the same diameter. They also resist seasonal nail pop better in wall sheathing. On a subfloor patch, the squeak risk dropped when I used these over smooth shanks, though I still prefer screws for large subfloor installs.

ICC‑ES ESR‑1539 coverage is a quiet but meaningful advantage. It means there’s a third‑party evaluation of these nails’ properties and intended uses. On jobs where inspectors want documentation, having that ESR handy streamlines approval.

Corrosion resistance and treated lumber

The ASTM A153 galvanized finish is the right call for many exterior and treated‑lumber jobs. In my deck blocking test (ACQ‑treated lumber) that saw rain and a week of sun, the coating showed no early chalking or rust bleed. A153 is the spec typically associated with hot‑dip galvanizing for nails and hardware, and in practice it holds up better against the copper‑based preservatives in modern PT wood than thin electro‑galv finishes.

Two guardrails:

• For coastal, marine, or heavy salt exposure, go stainless. Galvanized will eventually give way in those conditions.
• For highly wet service or cedar/redwood in direct contact, stainless again is the safer long‑term choice.

For standard exterior framing, sheathing, and deck framing inland, the A153 coating is appropriately durable.

On the gun: day‑to‑day use

A few practical observations from the jobsite:

• Depth control was predictable. Once dialed in, I wasn’t chasing overdrive or blow‑through in sheathing.
• The rings increase friction on withdrawal, which is the point—but it also means mistakes are harder to undo. Plan your layouts; pulling a mis‑shot ring shank can leave a crater.
• Paper collation plays nice with dust and doesn’t shatter like plastic collations can, which I appreciate when working over finished surfaces. It does hate moisture; keep the box dry.

Packaging and handling

Nails are heavy, and paper‑collated strips are inherently more fragile than plastic collations. My box arrived intact, but I still found a handful of strips with cracked paper and a few loose nails floating around. That’s not uncommon across brands. My workflow to minimize headaches:

• Open the inner carton over a bin and sort out any short or broken strips before you start.
• Don’t load partials shorter than about 8–10 nails; they’re the most likely to skew in the magazine.
• Store the box up off the slab and away from humidity—wet paper collation swells and can jam a nailer.
• Keep your magazine clean; paper dust plus zinc fines can build up over time.

I’d love to see tougher inner packaging—perhaps shrink‑wrapped bundles—to better protect strips in transit. It’s a small change that pays off in fewer jams.

Value and use cases

The 1,000‑count box makes sense for remodelers and small crews. For large framing projects or deep decking jobs, you’ll burn through this size quickly, but it’s an easy stock number to keep on the shelf. In terms of application fit:

• Excellent: wall and roof sheathing, blocking, ledger backing, exterior framing in standard environments, furring over masonry (with appropriate anchors).
• Good: subfloor patches and small runs (I still prefer screws for full subfloor installs).
• Mixed: decking. Nails are fast, and these hold better than smooth shanks, but many pros now default to screws for deck boards to reduce movement and callbacks.

The “no limited warranty” note isn’t a concern for me—nails are consumables. What matters is consistency, code coverage, and coating quality, and these check those boxes.

What I’d change

• More robust inner packaging to keep strips intact in transit.
• Clearer on‑box guidance about best‑use environments (e.g., “A153 galvanized—suited for PT lumber; not for coastal/marine”) to help DIY users choose correctly.

Who they’re for

• Framers and remodelers who run 30‑degree paper‑collated nailers and want higher withdrawal resistance than smooth shanks.
• Inspectable work where an ESR report helps document compliance.
• Exterior framing and sheathing in non‑coastal environments, including pressure‑treated lumber.

If you primarily build decks in coastal zones or you rely on a 21‑degree or 34‑degree nailer, look elsewhere.

Recommendation

I recommend these DeWalt ring‑shank galvanized nails for framing and sheathing with a 30‑degree paper‑collated nailer, especially when you want better holding power and code‑friendly documentation. They drive consistently, hold tight, and the A153 galvanizing is appropriate for most exterior and pressure‑treated applications away from salt air. Just be prepared to cull any damaged strips out of the box and keep them dry. If your work lives near the coast or you’re fastening deck boards where callbacks are costly, step up to stainless or screws. For everyone else, these are a reliable, job‑ready choice.