MAYOMAJO M10 Threaded Extension Poles Lighting Fixture Downrods Stems & 180 Degrees Sloped Ceiling Adapter Kits for Pendant Light, Island Lighting, Chandeliers

Why I reached for this extension rod kit

A lighting refresh in my dining room pushed me to find a simple, reliable way to fine‑tune fixture drop without committing to a custom stem. I wanted clean lines, solid hardware, and metric threading to match a European pendant. The MAYOMAJO extension rod kit checked the right boxes on paper, so I put it to work on a chandelier and two pendants—one on a flat ceiling, one on a sloped run.

What you get

• Two 12-inch rods and two 6-inch rods (maximum combined length: 36 inches)
• M10 x 1.0 mm threading throughout, with threaded connectors to join sections
• A sloped-ceiling adapter that rotates a full 180 degrees so the fixture hangs plumb
• Thick-wall iron construction with a black finish
• Rod dimensions: 11.5 mm outer diameter, 9.5 mm inner diameter

That mix of lengths lets you build 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, or 36-inch drops in seconds. There’s no cable included here—these are hollow stems intended to reroute your fixture’s existing conductors.

Build quality and finish

The rods are stout for their diameter. The walls are thicker than the budget stems I’ve used on similar projects, which helps stiffness on longer assemblies. Threads arrived clean, concentric, and free of burrs. I hand-started every joint without resistance and didn’t encounter any cross-threading tendencies—always a good sign with metric stems where the pitch tolerance matters.

The black finish lands in a modern satin territory: not glossy, not chalky matte. It blends well with black canopies and doesn’t spotlight fingerprints. Seams between sections are tidy enough that, from a normal viewing distance, the joints read as a single stem. If you’re especially particular, place a seam above the canopy line or directly above a fixture hub where your eye won’t linger.

Installation experience

I used one 6-inch section to shorten a chandelier that shipped only with long downrods, then built an 18-inch run (12" + 6") for a kitchen pendant. In both cases:

• I cut power at the breaker, loosened the canopy, and disconnected the fixture.
• I measured the total drop from ceiling to fixture hub, planning for final height with the canopy compressed.
• I dry-fitted rod sections with the included threaded connectors, hand-tightening first, then snugging with gentle wrench pressure at the couplers. No thread sealant was necessary.
• I fed conductors through the assembled stem. With a 9.5 mm inner diameter, standard 18 AWG fixture leads pass easily; cloth-covered multi-conductor cable fits, but it’s snug—worth checking if your pendant uses thicker sleeving.

Rehanging the fixtures was uneventful: alignment stayed true, no wobble beyond the typical give at the canopy screws, and the stems held orientation after a few twists for wire management. The finish resisted stray tool marks better than expected.

On a sloped ceiling

The included adapter is the highlight if you have a vaulted or angled ceiling. It behaves like a compact swivel, correcting the stem to hang vertical while the canopy sits flush to the slope. I set it on a roughly 30-degree pitch; the pendant hung plumb without persuasion, and there was no squeak or binding when I adjusted orientation.

Like most swivels, there’s a tiny bit of rotational freedom. On a long stem in a drafty space, you might notice slow rotation when airflow is strong. It wasn’t an issue in my tests, but if you need the pendant to aim a fixed direction, plan on a discreet set screw in the hub (many fixtures already have one).

Adjustability done right

The modular approach here is the main draw. Real kitchens and dining rooms rarely match the exact drop lengths bundled with fixtures. Being able to build in 6-inch increments—quickly, without cutting or drilling—saves time and preserves finish integrity. I appreciate that the connectors are included and properly matched to the M10 x 1.0 thread; the sections join squarely, and the seams don’t telegraph light misalignment.

Practically, the 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, and 36-inch options cover most residential pendant and chandelier scenarios. For islands or high-entry pendants, a 36-inch maximum will satisfy typical 8–10 foot ceilings. If you’re dealing with a double-height foyer or unusually tall space, you’ll need additional sections or a different system.

Compatibility: the critical checkpoint

This kit is M10 with a 1.0 mm pitch, and that matters. Many North American fixtures use 1/8-IP threaded stems (about 3/8-inch OD with 27 TPI), which are not compatible with M10. If your canopy coupler or fixture hub is 1/8-IP, this kit won’t thread in. Conversely, a lot of European and some modern fixtures use M10 hardware; that’s where this set shines.

A quick way to check:
- Measure the existing stem: 10 mm outer diameter typically signals M10; ~9.5–10 mm OD with metric markings is also a clue.
- Count threads with a pitch gauge or confirm spec in the fixture manual. M10 x 1.0 means one millimeter per thread.
- Inspect both ends: many systems are male on one end and female on the other, and you’ll want matching genders.

If you’re converting between standards, budget for an appropriate adapter (M10-to-1/8-IP or vice versa). I stuck to M10 throughout, and the process was plug-and-play.

Day-to-day performance

Once hung, the stems disappear—as they should. The kit’s thicker-wall tubes reduce bounce when the fixture is bumped, and they don’t telegraph vibration from normal household traffic. The black finish read as consistent across all sections, with no color shift between the 6" and 12" rods or connectors. Over a few weeks of use, there’s been no settling at joints and no finish flaking at the couplers.

The sloped-ceiling pendant has remained plumb. The swivel joint hasn’t loosened or creaked, and I don’t see sag when the fixture is dusted or nudged for cleaning.

Where it could be better

• Single finish option: It’s black only. If your fixtures are brushed nickel, brass, or white, you’ll be painting or looking elsewhere.
• Metric-only ecosystem: Outstanding if you’re on M10; a non-starter if your hardware is 1/8-IP and you don’t want adapters.
• Length granularity: 6-inch steps cover most cases, but an included 3-inch section would allow finer dialing for over-sink pendants or low ceilings.
• Inner diameter is slim: The 9.5 mm ID is fine for standard lamp leads. Heavier-gauge conductors or thick cloth-sheathed cable can be a tight feed.

None of these were dealbreakers in my installs, but they’re worth noting before you open the ceiling.

Safety and best practices

• Always kill power at the breaker and verify with a non-contact tester before handling wiring.
• Hand-start every threaded joint to avoid cross-threading. If you feel resistance early, back off and realign.
• Don’t overtighten: snug is enough. The connectors should seat firmly without deforming the tube.
• Support the fixture while you finalize canopy screws; don’t let the stem carry full weight until all connections are secured.
• If your canopy includes a locking set screw or jam nut, use it—it helps prevent rotation over time.

The bottom line

The MAYOMAJO extension rod kit is a well-executed, modular solution for M10 fixtures. It’s sturdy, the finish is clean, and the sloped-ceiling adapter works as advertised. Installation is straightforward if you verify thread compatibility, and the 6/12-inch sections cover a wide range of drop lengths without cutting or custom fabrication.

I recommend this kit to anyone working within an M10 lighting system who needs a quick, reliable way to adjust fixture height or tackle a sloped ceiling. The combination of solid machining, flexible configurations up to 36 inches, and a dependable swivel makes it an easy choice for both DIY and pro installs. If your hardware is 1/8-IP or you need a finish other than black, look for a kit in your thread standard; otherwise, this one does exactly what it should, with no drama.