MY MIRONEY 4 Sets Straight Pipe Lamp Stem Kit with Connector M10 Gold Lamp Rod Hardware Light Fixture Parts Replacement, 4.72" Long

A simple length of hollow tube can make or break a lighting project. That’s why I keep a small bin of stems and couplings on hand, and why this MY MIRONEY lamp stem kit has spent the last month in steady rotation on my bench. It’s a straightforward set—four gold-finished, M10 threaded hollow rods, each 120 mm (4.72") long, with four matching couplings—and it’s aimed squarely at DIY lamp assembly, repairs, and modest extensions.

What’s in the kit

• Four straight, hollow lamp rods
• Four female-female M10 couplings

There are no nuts, washers, or strain reliefs included, which is fine as long as you’re already stocked; if not, plan to source those separately. Each rod measures roughly 3/8" in outer diameter, which is a common profile for stems and looks visually proportional on most table lamps, small pendants, and sconce arms.

Build and finish

The rods are iron with an electroplated “gold” finish. The finish skews warm—more yellow-gold than satin brass—and it’s consistent across pieces, with no obvious blotches or color shift between rods and couplers. It’s not luxury hardware: edges are clean but not hand-lapped, the sheen is even but not mirror-polished, and there’s the faint seam line you expect on mass-produced tubing. In other words, they look good in a fixture, especially at a bit of distance, without pretending to be solid brass.

The plating is adequate for indoor use. I handled them with bare hands during assembly and saw no staining, flaking, or early corrosion. If you’re thinking outdoors, be realistic: these are plated iron. They can work in sheltered locations, but if the finish gets nicked, rust will eventually show. I’d top-coat with a clear lacquer or plan on more robust, solid-brass hardware for harsh environments.

Threading and compatibility

This is the most important point: the threads are metric M10. Many lamp parts in North America use 1/8-27 IPS (which confusingly also measures about 3/8" across), so the visual size similarity can lead to false confidence. M10 will not thread reliably into IPS without an adapter, and forcing it will damage both parts. If your build or repair is entirely metric—European fixtures, certain imported pendants, or a fresh DIY build using metric components—these drop right in. If you’re working on a typical U.S. fixture, plan on picking up M10-to-1/8 IPS adapters or committing to a full metric chain from canopy to socket.

On my bench, the M10 threads were clean, square, and free of burrs. I didn’t need to chase them with a die, though I always start threads by hand to avoid cross-threading. The couplings have decent thread depth; two rods joined by a coupling feel solid once snugged down.

In use

I used two of the rods and a coupling to drop a small pendant by about nine inches over a kitchen island. The wire feed-through was painless. Standard two-conductor lamp cord (SPT-1) slid through without drag; thicker sheaths pass, but tighter curves at the ends can bind, so cut cord ends cleanly and deburr the rod’s inside lip just in case. The 3/8" outer diameter looks right on a compact pendant—sturdy but not bulky—and the gold tone read as warm, not brassy, under dimmed LEDs.

I also used a single rod as the backbone of a table lamp built from a ceramic vessel. Threading into an M10 lamp base plate and up into an M10 socket shell was uneventful. The kit’s coupler gave me the option to add length if needed, and the continuity felt good: no wobble between sections, no misalignment visible to the eye. With the lamp assembled, a gentle twist test confirmed the joint’s stability.

One caveat: these are iron tubes, not thick-walled pipe. They’re straight and true out of the box, but if you apply leverage perpendicular to the axis—say, tightening a stubborn nut without supporting the rod—you can flex them. Treated as the decorative, wire-carrying spacers they are, they’re fine. If you need to support a heavy, cantilevered fixture or you know you’ll torque on them, go for heavier-wall stems or solid-brass parts.

Assembly notes

• Always start threads by hand. The M10 cuts are clean, but cross-threading will ruin your day.
• If mating to 1/8 IPS, use proper adapters. Don’t rely on Teflon tape to bridge thread standards.
• Use jam nuts and lock washers to prevent rotation once your alignment is set.
• Add a plastic or fiber bushing where the wire exits to protect insulation, especially at the socket end.
• For a longer drop, use the included couplings to join rods. Keep lateral loads low on multi-section runs.

Durability

After repeated assembly and disassembly during testing, the finish held up well, with only micro-scratches where wrenches met metal. The threads didn’t gall or shed plating flakes. Again, the limiting factor is wall thickness and base material: don’t expect these to shrug off abuse like solid brass. Torque with a short wrench, support the rod while tightening, and you’ll be fine.

Aesthetics and fit

The gold tone plays well with brushed brass and antique brass if you’re not expecting a perfect match. In mixed-finish fixtures, it reads as “warm metal” rather than a precise color target. Because the outer diameter is 3/8", it sits nicely in standard lamp cap nuts and through common canopy holes; I didn’t encounter interference with typical collars or galleries. If you’re working with very tight decorative ferrules designed for slim stems, measure before you commit.

Value

Four rods plus four couplings is a useful bundle. On small builds, that’s four projects’ worth of stems; on longer drops, the couplings effectively double your available lengths. Given the clean finish, consistent threading, and the convenience of having matched parts, the kit offers good value for general-purpose lamp work—provided M10 is your standard, or you’re willing to buy adapters.

Who it’s for

• DIYers building or refurbishing lamps with metric components
• Makers converting vessels or found objects into lamps
• Anyone needing modest extensions on pendants, sconces, or table lamps where a warm gold finish fits the palette

Who should look elsewhere:

• North American users who only stock 1/8 IPS parts and don’t want to deal with adapters
• Projects needing thick-wall or structural stems to support heavy, off-axis loads
• Outdoor fixtures exposed to weather without additional protection

Tips for best results

• Keep a small stash of M10 jam nuts, lock washers, and a couple of M10-to-IPS adapters in your kit; it saves trips mid-build.
• If you need the gold tone to match existing brass exactly, test in situ before final assembly. A light rub with a non-abrasive cloth can reduce the shine to better blend with satin finishes.
• For longer drops using multiple sections, mark a continuous line along the rods before assembly, then align marks to keep the seam orientation consistent—it looks cleaner.

Recommendation

I recommend the MY MIRONEY lamp stem kit for indoor DIY lamp building and repair where M10 threading is appropriate or adapters are acceptable. It’s a tidy, consistent set: the finish looks good in real fixtures, the threading is reliable, and the included couplings make the lengths genuinely flexible. The caveats are clear—metric threads, plated iron, and light-duty stiffness—so this isn’t the stem for heavy, cantilevered loads or for anyone allergic to adapters in an IPS-only shop. But used as intended, it’s a simple, well-executed solution that solves the everyday problem of adding clean, wire-safe length to a fixture without hunting for mismatched parts.