Skil Dado Insert Plate

Why I picked up this dado insert

I use a compact 8-1/4-inch Skil table saw for small shop builds and on-site work, and I needed a reliable way to run a stackable dado cutter for cabinet grooves, bookshelf dados, and occasional rabbets. The standard throat plate won’t clear a stacked head, so I added the Skil dado insert made for these saws. My goal was simple: a secure, flush-fitting insert that would let me run a stack up to 5/8 inch and keep workpieces well supported at the cut.

Compatibility and first impressions

This insert is purpose-built for Skil’s 8-1/4-inch saws—specifically the TS6308 and TS6328. That tight compatibility matters; universal plates are hit-or-miss on compact saws. Out of the box, the insert dropped into the opening without drama. The perimeter support felt solid, and the fit was tight enough that it didn’t chatter or rattle under stock. It came with the needed fasteners, and those aligned with the factory holes in my table.

The opening is wide enough to accommodate a stack up to 5/8 inch thick. That ceiling covers the bulk of furniture and cabinet work I do (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2-inch dados), though it’s worth noting up front that it won’t take a full 13/16 stack that larger cabinet saws commonly run.

Installation: quick and uneventful

My steps were straightforward:
- Unplug the saw.
- Remove the standard insert and riving knife/guard (dado work is non-through; the riving knife typically can’t be used).
- Install the dado insert and secure it with the included fasteners.
- Confirm the insert sits flush with the tabletop.

On my saw, the plate sat flush without shimming. If you find a slight lip, a thin piece of tape under a support tab is an easy fix. Because the opening is already generous, I didn’t need to raise the stack through the insert to “clear” it—no trimming or custom fitting required.

Before cutting, I checked that the arbor had enough thread engagement with a 5/8 stack and that the outer washer and nut seated fully. On my setup, reaching 5/8 thickness was safe and secure.

Setup notes and safety

Running a dado stack on a compact jobsite-style saw is a different animal than on a heavy cabinet saw. A few practices made the process smoother and safer for me:

• Featherboards and push blocks: Essential to control stock without a riving knife. I used a featherboard on the infeed side against the fence and a push block to maintain downward pressure.
• Auxiliary fence for rabbets: A sacrificial face on the rip fence lets you bury part of the dado head for clean rabbets without chewing up the factory fence.
• Outfeed support: Even small cabinets panels benefit from a stand or outfeed table so you don’t twist the work at the end of the cut.
• Light, steady feed: Dado stacks reward patience. I found a slow, consistent feed gave me better shoulder definition and reduced chatter.

In use: stability and clearance where it counts

The entire reason to use a dedicated insert is to keep the work supported over a larger opening while giving the stack room to spin. This one does that job well. With the insert in place, I cut:

• 1/4-inch dados for drawer bottoms in plywood
• 3/8-inch dados for bookshelf shelves in plywood and poplar
• 1/2-inch dados for cabinet carcasses
• Rabbet shoulders for back panels

The insert held flush, and its edges didn’t snag stock or catch small offcuts. The opening is predictably wider than a zero-clearance plate, so you won’t get shoulder support right up against the cutters. That’s normal for most OEM dado inserts. I used a backer board and sometimes painter’s tape to help reduce splintering on veneered plywood. With that, I got clean shoulders and consistent floor flatness across multiple passes.

The insert itself didn’t introduce any slop or vibration. As always, 90-degree accuracy depends on the saw’s calibration, not the insert, so I checked blade-to-miter-slot parallelism and fence alignment before starting. Once tuned, the depth was repeatable from piece to piece.

Cut quality and dust behavior

On solid wood, shoulder crispness was very good—particularly on 3/8 and 1/2-inch dados—so long as I used a backer for cross-grain cuts. On plywood, a light scoring pass (raising the stack just enough to kiss the veneer, then raising to final height) reduced top-edge tear-out. Because the throat is open, chips have room to escape, which helps. Still, a compact saw will fling a fair amount of waste; I found a shop vac at the dust port and a cleanup pass between sets kept the cavity from filling.

Durability after steady use

Over a handful of projects, the insert has held its shape and stayed flush. The perimeter edges show minor scuffing from stock sliding on and off but nothing that affects performance. I haven’t seen warping or sagging. The fasteners haven’t loosened either, though I do a quick check when I change blades or adjust the stack.

Limitations to consider

• 5/8-inch maximum stack: That’s the ceiling. If you need a full 3/4 or 13/16 dado in one pass, this isn’t the plate—or saw—for it.
• Not a zero-clearance solution: For the cleanest shoulders on veneered plywood, a shop-made zero-clearance dado insert would be ideal. This OEM insert is open by design, which is safer for clearance but less supportive at the cut line.
• Guard and riving knife off: This is standard for dado work, but it does change your safety profile. Make sure you compensate with featherboards, push blocks, and steady technique.
• Saw-specific: It’s only for Skil’s TS6308 and TS6328. If you’re not on those models, look elsewhere.

None of these are surprises; they’re tradeoffs typical of an OEM dado plate for a compact saw.

Tips for better results

• Sneak up on width: Use shims judiciously and test in scrap of the same species and grain orientation as your work. Label your shim stacks for quick repeatability.
• Score pass on plywood: Raise the stack a hair for a skim cut, then raise to final height to improve veneer quality.
• Backers and tape: A backer board at the exit edge or painter’s tape on the cut line tightens up shoulders.
• Auxiliary fence for rabbets: A sacrificial face makes dial-in safer and prevents fence damage.
• Keep it flush: If your plate sits a touch low, a strip of thin tape under a support tab can tune it.

Who benefits most

If you own a Skil 8-1/4-inch saw (TS6308 or TS6328) and want to cut cabinet dados, drawer bottoms, and shelf grooves with a real stack, this insert is the straightforward path. It’s especially useful for small shops and jobsite setups where a router table isn’t always practical or where multiple identical dados make the stack faster than a router.

If your work regularly calls for extra-wide dados or you’re chasing perfectly supported, zero-clearance shoulders on veneered panels out of the box, you’ll either want to build a custom insert or use different tooling for those specific tasks.

Recommendation

I recommend this dado insert for owners of Skil’s TS6308 and TS6328 who need dependable clearance and support for stackable dado cutters up to 5/8 inch. It fits correctly, installs easily with the included fasteners, and stays flush and stable in use. Within its design limits, cut quality is solid, especially with simple shop practices like backers and a scoring pass on plywood. It’s not a zero-clearance solution and it won’t take a 13/16 stack, but for most furniture and cabinet work on a compact saw, it does exactly what it should with no drama.