Mardatt 540 Pcs Insulated U Staple Nail Assortment Set with Storage Case, 0.56", 0.44“, 0.41", 0.36" Metal Cable Staple for Fixing Electrical Wire

Why this staple set found a permanent spot in my electrical kit

A good cable staple should be the kind of thing you never think about after you drive it—straight in, snug hold, no crushed jacket, and on to the next. That’s largely been my experience with the Mardatt cable staples. It’s a straightforward assortment that covers common residential wiring sizes, and the included case makes it easy to grab the right piece without sifting. It isn’t perfect, but for day-to-day organizing of NM cable and light cord management, it’s been reliably useful.

What’s in the box

The set includes 540 insulated U-shaped staples spread across four widths:

• 0.56 inch
• 0.44 inch
• 0.41 inch
• 0.36 inch

Each size lands in its own compartment inside a plastic organizer with a simple size chart. The legs are galvanized carbon steel for corrosion resistance, and the heads are sheathed in PVC to provide a bit of insulation and a softer bearing surface against the cable jacket. The points are sharp and burr-free out of the box, and the legs are straight and matched well enough that they drive without wandering.

The mix leans toward the mid-range sizes, which makes sense—those are the ones I’ve used most often for 14/2 and 12/2 NM runs.

Build and materials

The staples are fairly standard in construction but executed cleanly. The galvanizing is even, and the points are tapered enough to bite into softwoods and MDF cleanly without pre-drilling. The PVC collars are consistent in thickness and alignment. They’re not rubbery; they’re a firmer, smooth PVC that reduces abrasion on the cable jacket and offers a little electrical isolation from the metal legs.

Like most insulated staples, the insulation is there to protect the cable jacket and reduce incidental contact; it doesn’t turn the staple into a weatherproof fastener. For harsh outdoor exposure or UV-heavy locations, I’d use a product specifically rated for that environment.

Sizing and cable compatibility

In practice:

• 0.56 inch: Works well for 12/2 NM-B and UF 14/2 on pressure-treated lumber. Gives a comfortable amount of space without allowing the cable to rattle.
• 0.44 and 0.41 inch: My go-tos for 14/2 NM-B on studs and rafters. They sit the cable nicely without pinching if you leave the proper air gap.
• 0.36 inch: Best for low-voltage and small round cords—thermostat wire, bell wire, and light-duty lamp cord. It’s not for heavier power cables.

These are not the right choice for 12/3 NM, stacked runs, or bundles. If you’re dealing with armored cable (MC/AC) or metallic sheathed cable, the larger sizes can physically capture smaller MC, but I prefer dedicated MC straps for a more secure, code-friendly hold—especially on inspections where listing and labeling are scrutinized.

On-the-job performance

Driving them is simple: set the staple over the cable, hold it with two fingers, and give it light, square taps with a hammer until the legs bite. Once anchored, a couple more taps brings the head to a finished position, leaving a small clearance so the cable can move slightly under the staple. The points penetrate cleanly in pine and SPF framing. In old, dry studs or hardwood, pre-tapping with a nail or using a smaller starter hole reduces the chance of the legs splaying.

I didn’t have issues with legs wandering when hitting clean, straight grain. The few times I did see bending were when I tried to fasten into drywall with nothing behind it—hardly surprising and not what these are made for. If you’re securing to drywall, hit a stud or switch to an appropriate clip. On OSB and plywood, they drive fine, though OSB strands can occasionally deflect one leg; approaching with square, light strikes mitigates that.

The hold is solid. Once set, the staples don’t loosen with normal vibration, and the PVC collars distribute pressure well enough that I haven’t nicked a jacket.

A note on hammering technique

The PVC heads will pop off or shear if you wail on them. That’s not unique to this set—it’s just the reality of insulated staples. Two things help:

• Use controlled, lighter taps. Let the sharp tips do the work.
• Drive square. Glancing blows catch the collar and peel it off.

If you’re in very tight spaces where you can’t swing properly, a small electrician’s hammer or a magnetic tack hammer helps you keep strikes controlled.

Durability and corrosion resistance

Galvanized legs are a good fit for typical indoor or sheltered applications. I used a handful on a covered porch (PT studs, UF cable), and they’ve held up without visible corrosion. I wouldn’t rely on them in direct coastal exposure or places where stainless is called for, but for garages, basements, and framing cavities, the galvanizing is more than adequate.

The PVC hasn’t cracked or chalked under normal indoor conditions. Again, it’s not UV-rated, so keep direct sun exposure limited.

The storage case

The included box is basic but appreciated. The compartments are sized correctly, and the size chart is clear. If you toss the case into a bigger kit and it gets knocked around, some staples can jump partitions—par for the course with plastic organizers that don’t have gasketed lids. A strip of painter’s tape over the latches keeps things tidy if you’re traveling with it.

Code and inspection considerations

For DIY organizing around a shop, securing an extension cord on a workbench edge, or routing thermostat wire, this set shines. For permitted residential electrical work, make sure your fasteners meet local requirements and look for UL/ETL listing where required. I didn’t see a listing mark on the packaging I received. If an inspector wants listed components for NM cable fastening, I’d switch to a labeled staple for that portion of the job and keep this set for everything else.

Regardless of product, follow best practices:

• Don’t crush the cable—leave a hairline gap.
• Space staples per code and support between bends and boxes as required.
• Secure on studs/joists, not just drywall.

Where this set fits—and where it doesn’t

Ideal uses:

• 14/2 and 12/2 NM-B on studs and joists
• UF 14/2 in sheltered locations
• Low-voltage runs (thermostat, bell wire)
• Organizing light cords around a shop or garage

Less ideal:

• Heavier cables like 12/3 or bundles
• Metallic armored cable that needs dedicated straps
• High-visibility UV exposure or marine environments
• Drywall-only fastening

Value

As an assortment, the coverage is good, and 540 pieces will last most homeowners and light tradespeople a long time. The range lets you avoid the all-too-common “wrong staple” problem that damages a jacket or leaves a loose run. For the cost of a couple of small boxes from a big-box store, you get a comprehensive set with a case. That’s hard to argue with.

What I liked

• Sharp, burr-free tips drive straight in common framing lumber
• Useful spread of sizes for 14/2 and 12/2 NM plus light low-voltage
• PVC collars protect jackets and reduce scuffing
• Galvanized legs resist rust in typical indoor/sheltered use
• Organizer box with size chart keeps workflow quick

What could be better

• PVC collars can shear if you strike too hard or off-angle
• Not clearly listing-marked, which may matter for inspected work
• Staples can migrate between compartments if the case is bounced around
• Will bend if you try to set them into drywall with no backing—use studs or the right hardware

Recommendation

I recommend this Mardatt staple set for anyone who wants a well-rounded, affordable assortment for everyday cable management and routine NM runs on studs and joists. The sizes cover the common scenarios, the points drive cleanly, and the PVC heads protect cable jackets when installed correctly. If you’re working under a strict inspection regime or need hardware with a specific listing, keep a box of listed staples on hand for those parts of the job. For everything else—shop organization, low-voltage wiring, and non-permitted residential work—this set is a practical, reliable addition to the kit.