OMOTOOL Steel Wire Fencing Staples (200 pcs), Galvanized U-Shaped Fasteners Nails for Wire Mesh and Woven Fencing

Why I reached for these staples

I needed a straightforward way to fasten welded wire mesh to a mix of cedar and pressure-treated pine posts on a small enclosure and to secure a ground wire along the same run. I chose these OMOTOOL fencing staples because they hit a practical sweet spot: 2.3 mm wire diameter (roughly 12–13 gauge), 25 mm length, 14 mm crown, in a 200-count box with a galvanized finish. On paper, that size and coating promised easy driving, decent holding power for light- to medium-duty fencing, and reasonable corrosion resistance without the bulk and hand fatigue of heavier barbed staples.

Build quality and first impressions

Out of the box, the staples were consistent in length and crown width, with sharp points and a clean zinc coating. They’re made from Q195 carbon steel, which is on the lower-carbon side—tough enough for general fastening, not brittle, and unlikely to mushroom under a hammer unless you strike wildly off-center. The galvanizing looks uniform (likely electro-galvanized rather than hot-dipped), giving just enough protection for typical outdoor use.

There are no barbs on the legs, and the crown is rounded, which matters for both driving and long-term hold (more on that below). The small format makes them quick to handle—but if you have large hands or reduced grip strength, you’ll want pliers for the first couple of taps.

Driving performance across materials

I drove these staples into several real-world substrates to see where they shine and where they struggle.

• Softwoods (cedar, SPF, pressure-treated pine): Excellent. The sharp points start easily, even when you’re holding wire with one hand and trying to set the staple with the other. With a 16 oz hammer, most staples seated with 3–5 blows. I had minimal bending—maybe one bent leg when I hit a knot at a bad angle. In pressure-treated lumber, they still went in cleanly, though I appreciated a heavier hammer (20–22 oz) for fewer blows.

• Hardwood (old oak fence board): Manageable, but pre-drilling helps. Without a pilot, I could drive them, but the effort went up significantly and the odds of a leg deflecting off a dense grain line increased. A 1/16" pilot hole per leg made them behave.

• Masonry (brick/mortar, stucco over lathe): I regard the “suitable for concrete/brick/plaster” claim as conditional. Driving straight into concrete or solid brick is a non-starter; you’ll just blunt the points and risk spalling the surface. In a mortar joint, I had better results by pre-drilling 3/32" and tapping the staple in gently, but that’s a niche case. For true masonry work, mechanical anchors or masonry clips are a better choice.

• Drywall: As a substrate by itself, drywall won’t hold a staple for any load. Into a stud through drywall, they behave like in softwood. Just mind the depth so you don’t crush the gypsum.

Holding power in the field

I used these staples to:

• Attach 2"x4" welded wire mesh along a 50-foot run, top and bottom rails.
• Secure a bare copper ground wire down a series of posts.
• Tidy low-voltage cable along a garage stud bay.

For light fencing and wire management, the hold is solid, provided you mind technique. With smooth legs and a rounded crown, these aren’t meant to restrain high-tension livestock fencing. But for welded wire, poultry netting, garden fencing, and ground wire, they’re well suited.

Two practical notes:
- Don’t overdrive. Leave a hair of clearance under the crown so the wire can expand/contract and you don’t nick the galvanizing on the mesh.
- Angle your legs slightly in opposing directions. This “toe-in” increases pull-out resistance in softer woods.

On a test section with modest tension applied to the mesh, the staples stayed put. In a section I intentionally tensioned hard to simulate a rambunctious dog pushing against it, a couple of staples in a softer cedar post crept slightly over time. Replacing those with longer, barbed staples solved it. That underscores the intended use: these are light- to medium-duty fasteners, not a substitute for 40 mm barbed fence staples when you’re restraining heavy field wire under tension.

Corrosion resistance

I left a handful of staples partially exposed outdoors for eight weeks, including after a couple of wet spells. The zinc finish held up with no visible rust blooms. Where I scraped the coating with pliers, a little surface discoloration appeared but didn’t migrate. For typical yard and garden duty, the coating is adequate. For coastal, high-salt, or long-term farm installations, I’d move to hot-dip galvanized or stainless to avoid premature red rust at coating breaches.

Size and fit: what they’re best for

At 25 mm long with a 14 mm crown:
- Ideal for: welded wire mesh up to around 14 gauge, poultry netting, light chain-link tie points, electric fence ground wire, low-voltage cable management, and general tacking jobs on wood posts and rails.
- Borderline for: heavy barbed wire and field fencing under tension. You can tack, but don’t rely on these as primary restraint points.
- Not for: direct drive into solid concrete/brick, or high-tension livestock containment without supplementary fasteners.

If you’re switching from bigger “fence post staples,” these will feel small. The upside is easier driving and less fatigue; the tradeoff is sheer holding power in high-load situations.

Usability and workflow tips

A few tricks improved speed and consistency for me:
- Start with two light taps to set, then drive. The rounded crown can cause glancing blows if you go full force from the first strike.
- Use linesman pliers or a magnetic nail starter to hold staples for the first tap, especially if you’re working above shoulder height.
- For hardwoods, drill tiny pilots. Even a 1/16" bite reduces deflection dramatically.
- Space staples 8–12 inches along rails for welded wire; closer if the fence sees regular pressure.
- Angle legs slightly apart to resist pull-out. Don’t “bridge” knots; reposition for clean wood whenever possible.

What I’d change

• Barbs on the legs would increase bite in softwoods and reduce creep under lateral loads.
• A slightly flatter crown top would make the first strike more predictable.
• A longer option (30–35 mm) in the same line would cover more use cases while keeping the handy 2.3 mm wire diameter.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they define the line between light/medium and heavy-duty performance.

Value and packaging

Two hundred pieces go further than you might expect. I did two small projects and still had a healthy stash left. The staples came in a basic carton; no wasteful plastic, and they weren’t oily or clumped together. For the quantity and performance, the value is easy to justify for home and light farm use.

Alternatives to consider

• For high-tension fencing: barbed, hot-dipped galvanized staples in the 30–40 mm range.
• For masonry: dedicated masonry clips or anchors.
• For coastal environments: stainless staples to avoid galvanic and salt corrosion.

The bottom line

These OMOTOOL staples are a practical, easy-driving option for fastening wire mesh and managing ground/cable runs on wood. They’re sharp, consistent, and resist bending better than their size suggests. The galvanized finish is sufficient for most outdoor settings, and the 200-count pack keeps you working without rationing.

They’re not a cure-all. If you’re installing heavy field fence or serious barbed wire with significant tension, step up to longer, barbed, hot-dip staples. And while you can make them work in mortar with a pilot hole, they’re fundamentally wood fasteners.

Recommendation: I recommend these staples for light- to medium-duty fencing and general wire management on wood posts and rails. They offer good driving behavior, respectable holding power for their size, and solid value. If your project involves high loads, dense hardwoods without piloting, or long-term exposure in aggressive environments, choose a heavier, hot-dip or stainless staple instead.