King&Charles Cabinet Hardware Jig, King&Charles Cabinet Handle Jig + Automatic Hole Punch + Point Drill Bits, Use for Handles Knobs Pulls on Drawers/Doors, Wood Drilling Dowelling Guide Set.

Why this jig earned a spot in my kit

Installing cabinet hardware is one of those tasks that looks simple but gets unforgiving fast. A millimeter off on a pull and you’ll see it every day. I picked up the King&Charles jig to streamline a multi-room hardware install—drawers, cabinet doors, a couple of recessed fronts—and it did exactly what a good jig should: made me faster without sacrificing accuracy. It’s not a premium, all-metal, jobsite tank, but for home and light pro use, it hits a very sensible sweet spot.

What’s in the kit

The package is more complete than most in this price range. You get:
- The jig with an ABS body and a stainless steel ruler
- Quick-release drill guide sliders
- Dual metric/imperial scales
- A metal automatic center punch
- Three brad-point wood bits (3, 4, and 5 mm)
- A storage bag that actually fits everything

The standout is the automatic center punch. It’s not an afterthought accessory—it’s an integral part of how this jig is best used. More on that below.

Setup and calibration

Out of the bag, assembly took me under ten minutes. The sliding drill guide and fences are intuitive: set your handle’s center-to-center spacing, square the fence to the cabinet edge, and lock everything with the thumb knobs.

A few tips that improved my results immediately:
- Ignore any urge to trust printed scales blindly. They’re clear and legible, but I still verify with a steel rule or calipers—especially for common sizes like 96 mm, 128 mm, and 160 mm.
- Do a dry run on a scrap or a taped-off piece of MDF. I keep a “test drawer” board in the shop specifically for this.
- Set a consistent reference (e.g., measure from the drawer’s top edge for all drawers). Consistency beats perfection when you’re trying to match a room full of fronts.

In use: workflow that works

Here’s the routine that got me clean, repeatable results:

1. Mark a centerline on the drawer front or stile with light pencil or tape.
2. Set the jig’s fence so the drill guide is square and on your centerline.
3. Adjust the drill guide to your handle’s hole spacing. Lock the sliders.
4. Use the automatic center punch through the drill bushings to dimple each hole location. Two firm clicks per hole on hard woods like maple; one click on softer woods.
5. Drill a pilot with the 3 mm bit through the punched dimple.
6. Open to final size with the 5 mm bit (or your preferred size—more on that below).
7. Lightly break the edges with a countersink or by spinning the bit by hand to avoid raised fibers.
8. Test-fit the handle before moving the jig.

The punch-first approach is the unsung hero here. If you’ve ever had a brad-point bit skate or found the jig shift under drill pressure, punching first makes the whole process calmer and more controlled.

Accuracy and repeatability

Once dialed in, the jig holds tolerances well enough for visible, side-by-side drawers. I was comfortable installing long pulls on wide drawers without fear of subtle racking. That said, a couple of things are worth watching:

• Retighten the sliders and fence periodically. Quick-release hardware is fast, but it does benefit from a check every few pieces.
• Apply even pressure against the fence and keep one hand stabilizing the jig while punching. It’s light enough that a nudge can move it if you’re careless.
• For doors with variable stile widths or shaker rails, recheck your vertical offset when you switch orientations (horizontal on drawers vs. vertical on doors).

In other words: the jig is accurate; your technique determines how accurate.

The included bits and hole sizes

The three included brad-point bits are a nice touch. The 3 mm is ideal for pilots, the 4 mm is handy for European M4 screws in solid wood, and the 5 mm creates a clean clearance hole for most common cabinet hardware.

If you’re using 8-32 machine screws (very common in the U.S.), a 3/16" bit is technically closer to ideal than 5 mm, but the 5 mm works just fine as a clearance hole and won’t affect the install. The brad points help keep the holes crisp with minimal tear-out. For face-veneered plywood, I still recommend tape on the exit side or a backer block.

Build quality and ergonomics

The core body is ABS with a stainless steel ruler, and that’s a sensible pairing here. The ABS plate has crisp, high-contrast markings and doesn’t ding your finished fronts if you bump it. The stainless ruler is straight and stays that way. The drill guide sliders have enough meat to them that I didn’t experience flex during normal use.

Is it bombproof? No. If you’re tossing this into a work van daily, an all-metal jig will be more forgiving to abuse. But with basic care, nothing about it feels flimsy. The locking knobs are easy to grip, and the overall weight is light enough that you won’t fight it during vertical door work.

Portability and storage

The detachable components and included bag are genuinely useful. I broke the jig down to toss it in a tool bag, and reassembly didn’t cost me much time. If you’re moving between rooms or projects, this is far more convenient than lugging a bulky one-piece jig.

Versatility on different fronts

I used it on:
- Standard overlay cabinet doors (vertical knobs and pulls)
- Shaker-style rails (watch your vertical offset to avoid hitting panel recesses)
- Drawer fronts from narrow bathroom drawers to wide kitchen banks

The jig’s fence and sliders accommodate both single-hole knobs and multi-hole pulls easily. For extra-long pulls, I suggest drilling one side, test-fitting the handle with a screw, then drilling the second hole off that fixed reference—belt and suspenders, but it’s foolproof.

Technique tips that pay off

• Mark centerlines—don’t rely solely on edges that might not be perfectly parallel.
• Use the punch for every hole, even with brad points.
• Pilot first, then open. Cleaner holes, less wander.
• Blue tape the face and back of veneered panels.
• Keep a spare 3/16" bit if you prefer imperial sizing for 8-32 screws.
• For stacked drawers, build a simple spacer block to set consistent vertical offsets without remeasuring.

Where it fits in the market

There are heavier, fully machined jigs that are faster to adjust and harder to knock out of square, and there are cheaper plastic templates that are barely better than guessing. This jig lands right in the practical center: more precise and configurable than throwaway templates, much more affordable than pro-grade metal systems. For a homeowner or a handy person outfitting a kitchen, bath, or built-ins, that’s exactly the right place to be.

Pros

• Thoughtful kit: automatic center punch and brad-point bits included
• Dual scales and clear markings; easy to read
• Quick adjustments with sliders; good repeatability
• Portable, with a useful storage bag
• Gentle on finished fronts thanks to the ABS body
• Strong value for the capability

Cons

• Not an all-metal build; requires attention to keep everything locked down
• Scales are good, but I still verify measurements—best practice with any jig
• Included bits top out at 5 mm; you may want a 3/16" bit for 8-32 screws

Recommendation

I recommend the King&Charles jig for anyone installing cabinet hardware from scratch or updating a full room’s worth of doors and drawers. It’s accurate when used with care, the punch-first workflow keeps holes where they belong, and the kit is complete enough that you can start immediately without extra purchases. If you install hardware daily and your tools live a hard life, an all-metal jig will be more durable long-term. For DIYers, small shops, and remodelers who want consistent, professional-looking results at a sensible price, this jig is an easy yes.