LuSumtly IP67 Waterproof Junction Box, ABS Plastic Electrical Enclosure with Stainless Steel Latch, Hinged Cover Electric Box with Mounting Plate, Wall Brackets & Cable Glands 280x190x130mm

Why I picked this enclosure

I needed a compact, weatherproof box to consolidate a few outdoor connections—some low‑voltage control wiring for an irrigation pump and a small network component for a garden camera run. Most off‑the‑shelf outdoor enclosures are either oversized or fiddly to work with in the field. The LuSumtly IP67 junction box hit an appealing balance on paper: a hinged lid, stainless latches, and enough internal volume (280 × 190 × 130 mm, roughly 11 × 7.5 × 5.1 in) to mount hardware cleanly without wasting wall space.

After multiple installs with this model, I’ve formed a clear picture of where it excels and where you’ll want to plan ahead.

Build quality and weatherproofing

The enclosure is ABS with stainless steel hardware, and that combo works. The plastic feels stout without being brittle, and it drills cleanly—no chipping or spider‑cracking when I used a step bit and a hole saw. The hinge and latches are the standout: both latches pull the lid evenly against a continuous gasket, and the compression feels consistent across the seal. After heavy rain and a few aggressive hose tests, I saw no ingress—no fogging, no damp gasket, no damp mounting plate. That’s exactly what I want from an IP67‑rated box.

A few build notes from hands‑on use:
- The hinge has enough resistance to keep the lid from flopping in light wind, which makes terminations easier.
- The stainless latches are overkill in a good way—easy to operate with gloved hands, and they clamp firmly without feeling like you’re stressing the plastic.
- The grey ABS resists sun glare and hasn’t shown chalking so far. That said, ABS will never be as UV‑bulletproof as polycarbonate, so I still prefer a shaded or north‑facing install if you have the choice.

Interior layout and included hardware

Inside, you get a removable mounting plate, a small DIN rail segment, wall brackets, and a pair of cable glands. The mounting plate uses standoffs that give a bit of air gap between the plate and the back wall. I’ve used that plate to mount:
- A 24 V contactor and a small relay board for a pump control
- A DIN‑clip DC buck converter
- A compact PoE injector

The DIN segment is short but useful—just enough for a contactor or a breaker and a terminal block. The wall brackets are stainless and mount externally so you don’t compromise the seal with through‑holes. The included cable glands are serviceable for common low‑voltage runs; if you’re using armored cable or larger OD conductors, plan to source glands in the right size and rating.

Clearances are good. The interior depth is generous enough that low‑profile components, a compact terminal strip, and modest wire routing can coexist without feeling cramped. If you stack larger devices on the mounting plate, keep in mind that the standoff braces behind the plate reduce the space available for running wires directly behind it. I routed around the sides and used adhesive cable tie bases to keep things tidy.

Installation experience

This box is easy to work with if you take a few sensible steps:
- Mark and pre‑drill: I used a step bit for precision on cable entry holes. The ABS cuts cleanly and deburrs nicely with a light pass of a countersink.
- Dry‑fit everything on the mounting plate before you commit: It’s tempting to tighten down a DIN component and start landing wires, but a mock‑up saves time, especially if you’re balancing multiple components and a lid clearance check.
- Use the included wall brackets: They keep fasteners out of the enclosure and make alignment easier. I prefer stainless screws with washers into anchors appropriate for the substrate.
- Tension the latches evenly: Close the lid, seat it by hand to align the gasket, then latch both sides. The seal compresses uniformly and you’ll avoid pinching the gasket.

The hinged cover is a real advantage compared to screw‑on lids. For quick checks or adding a terminal, being able to swing the lid open without finding a place to set it down is invaluable. It’s a small ergonomic detail that has a big impact in the field.

Real‑world use cases

I’ve put this enclosure through a few scenarios:
- Outdoor pump control: Mounted a 24 V contactor and a relay inside, with low‑voltage control entering through a gland and 220 VAC feed/lead entering through separate glands sized accordingly. The box handled the drilling, the seal held, and the plate gave a solid base to land the hardware.
- Network handoff: Housed a small media converter and a PoE injector feeding an exterior camera. The hinge and latches made it easy to swap a cable and check link lights without juggling screws.
- Trailer DC panel: Built a simple DC lighting hub in a cargo trailer with fusing and a small distribution block. The form factor kept the install compact, and the gasketed lid stopped dust intrusion from the road.

In all three cases, the enclosure kept water and dust out, and the interior stayed clean and organized.

Weather, heat, and cable management

IP67 means fully dust‑tight and protected against temporary immersion. The box meets that mark if you respect the basics: use quality glands, tighten them properly, and add drip loops to external cabling. I also like a thin smear of silicone grease on the gasket to prevent sticking in hot/cold cycles.

Thermal management is the one area to watch. ABS insulates; it doesn’t wick heat. If you are housing devices that shed more than a handful of watts, think about load distribution, shading, or an IP‑rated vent/breather. For batteries, be especially mindful of chemistry and off‑gassing. SLA in a sealed space outdoors is a recipe for condensation and venting issues; LiFePO4 with a proper BMS is the safer bet, but you still need to account for heat.

Cable routing is straightforward. I prefer to keep the bottom and side faces for glands and leave the top undrilled to reduce the chance of water pooling around a fitting. The enclosure drills nicely on all faces, so layout flexibility is high.

What could be better

No enclosure at this price is perfect, and a few constraints are worth noting:
- The standoff bracing behind the mounting plate reduces the usable “behind‑the‑plate” channel for hidden wire runs. Plan to route around the plate edges.
- Only two glands are included. That’s fine for simple builds, but most real installs will require additional glands or cord grips sized to your specific cable ODs.
- ABS is durable and cost‑effective, but polycarbonate still wins for long‑term UV stability and higher impact resilience. If your install will live in full sun in a hot climate for years, consider a shade or check for discoloration over time.
- Compliance labeling isn’t front‑and‑center. If you need a specific certification (UL/NEMA) for an inspected job, verify documentation before adopting it into a spec.

None of these are deal‑breakers; they’re all manageable with planning and clear expectations.

Value and alternatives

Compared to premium enclosures from Hammond or Bud in a similar size, this model lands in the “affordable but capable” category. You give up some brand‑name polish and possibly formal certifications, but you gain a very workable feature set: a real hinge, stainless latches, a removable plate, and included brackets. For DIY, small contractors, and outdoor low‑voltage projects, that value proposition makes sense.

If you know you’ll need frequent component swaps or inspections, the hinged design alone makes this a smarter choice than basic screw‑lid junction boxes. If you’re building a long‑term, sun‑exposed control panel with higher heat loads, a polycarbonate alternative with a sunshade might be the better move.

Bottom line

The LuSumtly IP67 junction box earns a spot in my kit. It’s compact, drills cleanly, seals reliably, and the hinged, latched lid turns a mundane box into a genuinely serviceable enclosure. The included mounting plate and short DIN rail make small control and network builds neater than they’d be in a plain junction box, and the stainless mounting hardware is a thoughtful touch.

Plan your cable entry, add the right glands for your cable diameters, and be realistic about heat and certification requirements. Do that, and this enclosure will deliver exactly what it promises: a tidy, weatherproof home for your outdoor electronics and electrical connections.

Recommendation: I recommend this enclosure for outdoor low‑voltage and light control applications where you want a compact, IP‑rated box with a hinged lid and solid hardware. It’s a practical, well‑priced option for DIYers and pros alike. If your project requires formal certifications for inspection, or if you’re housing high‑heat components in full sun, verify compliance and consider thermal mitigation—or step up to a polycarbonate, certified model. For everything else, this is a reliable, easy‑to‑work‑with choice.