Gratury Junction Box, IP67 Waterproof Plastic Enclosure for Electrical Project, Hinged Grey Cover, Includes Mounting Plate and Wall Bracket 220×170×110mm

Why I chose this enclosure

I needed a compact, weatherproof enclosure for a small control project: a low‑voltage controller, a compact power supply, a couple of terminal blocks, and some protection components. The Gratury enclosure in the 220×170×110 mm size hit the sweet spot on dimensions, ingress protection, and price. I also wanted a hinged lid for easy service and a mounting panel so I wouldn’t have to fabricate standoffs. On paper, this box checked those boxes: IP67 rating, stainless latches, ABS construction, and a lockable latch.

After building out the project and mounting the box outdoors, here’s how it actually performed.

Build quality and sealing

The enclosure feels sturdier than most ABS boxes in this size class. The walls are thick enough to resist flex and the lid doesn’t oil‑can when you press on it. The hinge runs smoothly, and the stainless latches pull the lid down evenly across the gasket. The gasket itself is well formed and seats cleanly; I saw no flashing or gaps. The first time I opened it, the seal was tight enough that it required a bit of careful prying at the latch side—exactly what I want in a weatherproof housing.

IP67 is ambitious for a plastic enclosure that you’ll inevitably drill holes into. Out of the box, the sealing is excellent. With penetrations for glands and switches, the rating becomes only as good as your fittings and technique. After installing glands and a panel cutout, I pressure‑washed the area and then hosed the enclosure directly; the interior stayed dry. It’s clear the lid, hinge, and latch side are doing their part.

One note for coastal or highly corrosive environments: the hardware is stainless, but I still coat fasteners and latch pins with a thin layer of corrosion inhibitor as a precaution. That’s standard practice for me on outdoor enclosures.

Layout and the internal mounting panel

The included mounting plate is a welcome addition. It’s rigid enough to hold small DIN rails, terminal blocks, and a compact PSU without flexing. The standoffs lift the plate off the back wall, which gives a modest channel to route small wires behind. I wouldn’t call the space generous; it’s enough for a few conductors but not for bulky wiring looms. If you need lots of rear routing, you’ll want a deeper box.

The usable front depth is good. I was able to mount a slim relay block and keep at least a finger’s clearance from the lid gasket—no interference closing the lid. The tradeoff between rear space and front depth is reasonable for this size.

Machining and cable management

This box doesn’t have knockouts, which I prefer. Smooth walls give you flexibility to place glands and cutouts exactly where you want them. ABS machines well if you go slow and keep heat under control.

Here’s what worked for me:
- For round cable entry, I used a step bit at low speed with light pressure. This produced clean holes for M16 and M20 glands without melting the plastic.
- For rectangular cutouts, a fine‑tooth jigsaw blade and a conservative feed rate gave precise openings with minimal cleanup. A deburring tool on the edges helps the gasketed devices seal properly.
- I always test‑fit glands and panel components, then run a thin bead of neutral‑cure silicone under the gland flange if I expect heavy spray or temporary immersion.

The enclosure wall thickness holds threads from typical nylon glands well, and the flat surfaces make it easy to align everything. If you plan to mount heavier devices on the lid, remember that ABS is rigid but not metal; keep the weight modest to avoid lid flex over time.

Mounting options and the IP tradeoffs

The included wall brackets make mounting straightforward, but there’s a catch common to many plastic enclosures: the bracket screws pass through the enclosure wall. That means any mounting hole becomes a potential leak path. There are a few ways to deal with this, and I’ve had good results with the following:

• Use stainless machine screws with neoprene sealing washers on the outside.
• On the inside, add a small dab of sealant under the screw heads or use sealing washers inside as well.
• Don’t overtighten; compress the neoprene just enough to form a seal.

You can also mount the box directly through the back, but the internal mounting plate covers the rear wall fasteners. If you go that route, install the wall screws first, then the plate. It’s doable, but the bracket method is cleaner if you take care with sealing.

Once installed, the box sits flush and square. The hinge allows the lid to swing open enough for comfortable access without removing it, which is a real timesaver during commissioning and maintenance.

Real‑world performance outdoors

I installed the enclosure in a semi‑exposed location where it sees sun, wind, and intermittent rain. So far it’s shrugging off UV and temperature swings without warping or chalking. The gasket hasn’t taken a compression set, and the latches still bite evenly. Inside, no signs of condensation or ingress after temperature cycles—helped by keeping cable entries at the bottom and using proper glands.

Thermally, ABS doesn’t dissipate heat like aluminum. My load is modest, so internal temperatures stayed well within component limits. If you’re housing higher‑wattage power supplies or motor drives, consider derating, adding vents with filters (which compromises IP), or stepping up to a larger enclosure to increase air volume.

Security and serviceability

The latch design accepts a small padlock, which is all many low‑voltage projects need. For anything safety‑critical, I’d still use tamper‑evident seals or place the box in a restricted area. The hinge and latch hardware feel robust; after multiple opens and closes during wiring, there’s no looseness or misalignment.

Serviceability is a strong point. The hinged lid and internal panel mean you can wire on the bench and then drop the assembly into the enclosure, or mount the empty box first and wire in place. I preferred to pre‑populate the panel and then install it, which kept the wall work quick and tidy.

Limitations and wish list

• Bracket mounting compromises the enclosure wall unless you seal the fasteners. Including molded‑in captive inserts for brackets would make this almost perfect.
• The standoff height behind the mounting plate is modest. Another 5–8 mm of clearance would help with rear routing without hurting front‑side space too much.
• No knockouts means more work for simple installs, though I see this as a net positive for flexibility.
• Hardware is solid, but for harsh outdoor environments I recommend upgrading any field screws to high‑quality stainless and using anti‑seize to avoid galling.

None of these are dealbreakers, and all are manageable with basic shop practices.

Tips for getting the most from it

• Mark hole centers with a step center punch to keep bits from wandering on the ABS surface.
• Drill undersize first, test with the gland, then open up to final size with a step bit for the cleanest edge.
• Keep penetrations on the bottom or side walls to reduce direct water exposure.
• Use IP‑rated cable glands and panel components; the box can only be as waterproof as the fittings you add.
• If you must mount through the back wall, set your fasteners before installing the internal plate.

Verdict

The Gratury enclosure strikes a very good balance of build quality, sealing, and usability for small control and wiring projects. The ABS molding is clean, the hinged lid with stainless latches inspires confidence, and the included mounting plate streamlines assembly. You do need to be thoughtful about how you mount it to a wall and how you machine it to preserve the IP67 intent, but that’s true of any plastic enclosure in this class.

Recommendation: I recommend this enclosure for low‑voltage controls, sensor hubs, small PLCs, and network/power interface points where weather resistance and serviceability matter. It’s sturdy, genuinely weatherproof when properly fitted, and easy to work with. If your installation is in a highly corrosive environment or demands frequent heavy modifications, consider these factors and plan your fasteners and glands accordingly. For most residential, commercial, and light industrial projects, it’s a dependable, cost‑effective choice.