GEVEELIFE Waterproof Junction Box ABS Plastic, Outdoor Electrical Box IP67 Hinged Cover Project Box with Mounting Plate Wall Brackets and 2 Cable Glands, Grey Electrical Enclosure 11.4"x7.5"x5.5"

Why I picked this enclosure

I needed a weatherproof home for a small off-grid lighting controller, a DIN-rail fuse block, and a couple of relays on the exterior of a pool equipment pad. The brief was simple: roomy enough to work inside without scraped knuckles, easy to drill, and trustworthy in heavy rain and sprinkler overspray. I went with the GEVEELIFE junction box because it promised IP67 sealing, a hinged door with metal latches, and—importantly for clean builds—a removable mounting plate. After a few weeks of installation and real-world weather, here’s how it stacked up.

Build quality and layout

The enclosure feels robust for ABS. The shell has enough wall thickness to resist flex when you cinch it to a wall, and the door closes with even pressure thanks to two stainless steel latches. The latches are a noticeable step up from the plastic twist fasteners you see on bargain boxes. They give a positive snap and don’t feel like they’ll fatigue anytime soon. There’s a lock hole that accommodates a small padlock—handy if your install is in a publicly accessible spot.

Inside, the 11.4" x 7.5" x 5.5" interior is generous for low-voltage and light AC projects. The removable 5/32" mounting plate is the star here. It’s thick enough to hold screws firmly without stripping and rigid enough to mount a short DIN rail, terminal blocks, a compact power supply, and a relay module without any rattle. The layout flexibility beats fixed standoffs; I could center my controller and keep wiring tidy without reaching awkwardly into corners.

The hinge opens wide and stays put, which makes terminating wires and tightening glands much easier. There’s enough door depth that low-profile gear mounted on the plate won’t foul on the gasket when you close up.

Installation experience

Drilling ABS can be a gamble—some boxes craze or chip around holes—but this one behaved well. I used a step bit at moderate speed and backed the panel with scrap wood. Clean, round holes with no edge cracking. The material cut predictably for both the enclosure and the mounting plate.

The box includes two 3/8" NPT and two 1/2" NPT cable glands. Threads and locknuts were clean, and the glands held snugly in the ABS without spinning during tightening. For critical outdoor runs, I still prefer premium glands with integral strain relief and tighter compression ranges, but the included ones sealed fine for common low-voltage cable ODs. If you need to bring in larger SO cord or schedule conduit, plan on swapping to bulkhead adapters or larger glands.

Mounting is straightforward. The four steel wall brackets are simple and strong. I used stainless screws into anchors on stucco and added nylon spacers behind the top brackets to keep the enclosure truly plumb. If you’re mounting on uneven surfaces, those little spacers make a big difference in how evenly the gasket compresses.

A few practical tips from the install:
- Orient cable entries on the bottom where possible, and add drip loops to every run.
- Dry-fit everything on the plate, mark your holes, then pull it out and do the drilling on a bench.
- Add a tiny smear of silicone grease to the door gasket to prevent sticking and to maintain the seal over time.

Weatherproofing in practice

IP67 claims are nice on paper, but the door gasket, hinge interface, and latch tension determine if you stay dry. I did a hose test, hitting the door seam and gland entries from all angles for several minutes, and opened up to a dry interior. After a week that included a wind-driven storm, there was still no sign of ingress or streaking. The gasket tracks the perimeter evenly; you can see uniform compression marks, which inspires confidence.

Condensation is the silent killer in sealed boxes. Because this is a true sealed enclosure, any warm gear in cool air can cause a bit of internal moisture. I tossed in a pair of desiccant packs, and that’s kept the interior bone dry. If you need continuous ventilation for heat management, understand that adding vents will compromise the IP rating—use filtered vents and accept the trade-off or stick with sealed and manage heat via thermal pads and radiant placement.

Heat, UV, and longevity

ABS isn’t as bulletproof as fiberglass or polycarbonate, but this particular shell doesn’t feel brittle, and the grey color helps reduce solar gain. I measured internal temps with a small load (controller plus a 15W supply) on a 90°F day in direct sun; the interior ran warm but not alarming—about 10–12°F above ambient. For most low-power electronics, that’s fine. If you expect sustained high thermal loads, pick the shadiest mounting spot, add a heat-spreading plate to the back, or step up to a vented design with appropriate ingress trade-offs.

UV resistance so far looks good. The surface has a matte finish that takes paint well. I lightly scuffed and shot it with a color-matched exterior paint to blend with the wall; no adhesion issues after curing. If you’re in harsh coastal sun, I’d still consider a UV-stable topcoat as cheap insurance.

Usability and working space

The size sweet spot is what makes this enclosure easy to recommend. There’s room to route wires cleanly around the perimeter, and the door doesn’t crowd your components. I mounted:
- A compact solar charge controller
- A 6-position DIN-rail fuse block
- A small relay module and terminal strips

Everything fit with clearance for service loops and labeling. If you’re housing a Wi‑Fi device or a LoRa miner, the non-metallic shell is an advantage—no RF shielding to kill signal. Conversely, if you need EMI shielding, you’ll want a metal enclosure.

The door latches are quick to operate, so routine checks aren’t a chore. No tiny corner screws to lose in the grass, and no uneven torque to crush a gasket on one side.

What could be better

• The included glands are serviceable, but I’d love to see higher-grade compression inserts or an expanded assortment to cover a broader cable OD range. For mission-critical or heavy cable, plan to upgrade.
• Pre-marked drilling guides on the enclosure body would be handy for evenly spaced penetrations. The plate has a helpful pattern; the shell does not.
• It’s not inexpensive. You can find cheaper ABS boxes, but they usually skimp on latches, gasket quality, or plate rigidity. Whether the premium is worth it depends on how often you’ll open it and how harsh the environment is.

Value and alternatives

Compared to a metal NEMA box, this enclosure won’t corrode, is easier to drill, and is safer around RF gear. Compared to the cheapest plastic options, the hinge, latches, and gasket are a step up, and the mounting plate saves time. If you’re outfitting a high-vibration or industrial setting, fiberglass or polycarbonate might still be the right move, but for residential and light commercial outdoor installs, this strikes an excellent balance.

Bottom line

The GEVEELIFE junction box hits the practical notes I care about: sturdy construction, a real gasket that seals, latches that don’t fight you, and a mounting plate that speeds up clean, serviceable layouts. Installation was painless, weather resistance has been reliable, and the interior space accommodates a surprising amount of gear without feeling cramped.

Recommendation: I recommend this enclosure for outdoor low-voltage and light AC projects where IP67 sealing, ease of drilling, and a workable interior layout matter. It’s not the cheapest option, and I’d upgrade the glands for heavy-duty runs, but the overall build quality, hinged access, and roomy plate make it a dependable choice that’s pleasant to live with.